The bolt that connects the tiller to the rudder is really sloppy and has a lot of play. Is there a fix for this? I am new to the site and a sailing newbie. Thanks for any help.
Tiller to Rudder Sloppy
- Thread starter mlindberg1
- Start date
Welcome, to sailing and O'Days!
The tiller connection was sloppy on my 22 as well. I shimmed it with a piece of copper tubing over the bolt and drilling the rudder for a snug fit. The bolt pivots in the tubing which is replaceable. Might want to use stainless for salt water.
Another way would be to fill the rudder with thickened epoxy and re-drill.
The tiller connection was sloppy on my 22 as well. I shimmed it with a piece of copper tubing over the bolt and drilling the rudder for a snug fit. The bolt pivots in the tubing which is replaceable. Might want to use stainless for salt water.
Another way would be to fill the rudder with thickened epoxy and re-drill.
Thanks so much. As a new owner there are so many things and in reading all the posts I get worried about potential problems. thanks again.
It is in the hole that the bolt goes through. I have not taken it off yet. Someone on the site said to get a slightly larger bolt. Others say to fill in and re-drill for the current bolt. I think I will take it off and inspect it closer. I assume the tiller to rudder connection should be snug with no play.
thanks
thanks
To use a larger bolt would mean drilling the hole for the larger bolt... even though it is too big for the current bolt, it only means it is probably an egg shaped hole due to the wear... UNLESS someone has recently installed too small of a bolt in the hole for whatever reason they thought was ok to do so..
One problem that causes this particular joint to wear prematurely is an unbalanced rig... because it causes a higher load on the rudder than is proper.. perfectly balanced in normal conditions, you should be able to operate the tiller under sail with one or two fingers... this equates to very little stress on the joint.
Have you tried tightening the bolt to the point tangs just squeeze the rudder? That should help with some of the slop.
By coincidence, I was just talking to Rudy at D & R Marine about the sloppiness of my tiller to rudder connection. My tiller has the H shaped tang. He suggested I switch to the flat bar stock tangs because they could be squeezed tight to the rudder head to eliminate slop. The H design was too stiff to do this.
His other suggestion was to fill and re drill. He felt that putting in a bushing was more work than required.
Looks like you already have the straight bar stock type of tangs so all you may have to do tighten and if it is still sloppy fill and drill.
Differences I noticed in your photo between your rudder/tiller and my 1980 25 rudder is the rudder appears to narrow where the pintles attach to the rudder. You also appear to have a bolt used as a tiller stop to keep the tiller from being too low. I may borrow that idea as my rudder has a step that the H of the tangs sits on. When I eliminate the H the tiller will not be supported except by the transom.
By coincidence, I was just talking to Rudy at D & R Marine about the sloppiness of my tiller to rudder connection. My tiller has the H shaped tang. He suggested I switch to the flat bar stock tangs because they could be squeezed tight to the rudder head to eliminate slop. The H design was too stiff to do this.
His other suggestion was to fill and re drill. He felt that putting in a bushing was more work than required.
Looks like you already have the straight bar stock type of tangs so all you may have to do tighten and if it is still sloppy fill and drill.
Differences I noticed in your photo between your rudder/tiller and my 1980 25 rudder is the rudder appears to narrow where the pintles attach to the rudder. You also appear to have a bolt used as a tiller stop to keep the tiller from being too low. I may borrow that idea as my rudder has a step that the H of the tangs sits on. When I eliminate the H the tiller will not be supported except by the transom.
Ward, thanks for the tip. Just went over and tightened the bolt. Works well now. Now I notice the bottom of the tiller is cracked near where it attaches to the hardware. Either I will try to glass it or get a new tiller. Thanks again.
Glad to help. New tiller from D & R Marine is about $45 for the solid ash one. $130 something for a laminated mahogany with curve.
I just ordered a few minutes ago the solid ash tiller with the mounting plates. Tiller and Tangs were $88.00.
I just ordered a few minutes ago the solid ash tiller with the mounting plates. Tiller and Tangs were $88.00.
You might also be able to get a tiller from Ruddercraft.com. I like the straight 2" rise I got for my Harpoon. However, if you are remotely particular about bright work, don't bother letting them varnish it for you. Or if you do have them varnish, expect to do another 5 or 6 coats yourself.
I received my solid ash tiller with tangs from Rudy. I filled the bolt hole and re drilled. I then added UHMW low friction tape to the inside of the tangs where they rub on the rudder head.
Works great. Tight with no slop but tiller moves up smoothly.
Works great. Tight with no slop but tiller moves up smoothly.