Someone else must have dealt with this. I just bought a 1975 ODay 27. I love her, but have an annoying amount of play in the tiller. The bushings have been replaced and checked by the surveyor. The problem is where the shaft is capped by the brass (?) fitting going to the tiller. To put it mildly, the fit is not snug. Any suggestions for shim material or other clever ideas?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
M
Mike
Similar Problem
I never checked the bushings, etc. I just tightened the bolts on the cap & it's tolerable. Some time ago someone did a post on puiring resin down the tiller shaft -- I wish they would post again.
I never checked the bushings, etc. I just tightened the bolts on the cap & it's tolerable. Some time ago someone did a post on puiring resin down the tiller shaft -- I wish they would post again.
G
George
Resin Trick
By searching the archive I found the resin trick posting. The text of the resin post is below, or follow the related link to see the entire discussion from August-Septer 2001. Here's the post: Hi, I had the same problem on my old Grampian 26. May a assume that when you go below, you can find the fiberglass tube that houses the rudder post...runs from the hull to the cockpit sole? You can check with West Systems for the details, but here's what they used to recommend: With the boat out of the water, make a mixture of resin and mix it with some graphite (I believe they supply this, too). Drill some holes in the fiberglass rudder tube. Using a West syringe, filled with your resin and graphite mix, inject the entire contents of the syringe in to the drilled holes. The epoxy mix totally fills the void between the rudder post and the fiberglass tube. Let is cure....completely. As soon as it's cleared, take hold of your tiller and break it loose. It's the graphite that allows it to snap free. Now, your rudder post is riding in a graphite lubed, custom fitted tube/bearing with NO play. See West for details. Hope this helps...West will say if it's still their recommended procedure. Blake
By searching the archive I found the resin trick posting. The text of the resin post is below, or follow the related link to see the entire discussion from August-Septer 2001. Here's the post: Hi, I had the same problem on my old Grampian 26. May a assume that when you go below, you can find the fiberglass tube that houses the rudder post...runs from the hull to the cockpit sole? You can check with West Systems for the details, but here's what they used to recommend: With the boat out of the water, make a mixture of resin and mix it with some graphite (I believe they supply this, too). Drill some holes in the fiberglass rudder tube. Using a West syringe, filled with your resin and graphite mix, inject the entire contents of the syringe in to the drilled holes. The epoxy mix totally fills the void between the rudder post and the fiberglass tube. Let is cure....completely. As soon as it's cleared, take hold of your tiller and break it loose. It's the graphite that allows it to snap free. Now, your rudder post is riding in a graphite lubed, custom fitted tube/bearing with NO play. See West for details. Hope this helps...West will say if it's still their recommended procedure. Blake
D
David Mendels
Thanks but a different problem
Thanks for your replies, but my problem is not in the bushings. They have been replaced and the surveyor (I just bought her) approved them. The problem seems to be where the shaft enters the brass coupling onto which the tiller hinges. I have tried tightening it up, but it is by no means snug. I can't be the first one to have this problem, can I?
Thanks for your replies, but my problem is not in the bushings. They have been replaced and the surveyor (I just bought her) approved them. The problem seems to be where the shaft enters the brass coupling onto which the tiller hinges. I have tried tightening it up, but it is by no means snug. I can't be the first one to have this problem, can I?
J
Jim Cook
To play too much
My '74 O'Day 27 also has excessive tiller play. In my case, a bolt passes through the tiller cap and the top of the rudder post. The holes on both sides of the tiller cap have excessive wear (they are oval not round). I have been planning to pull the bolt and bore out a slightly larger hole through the rudder post and replace the bolt with the next size larger. Any comments would be welcome. Jim Cook "Dream Chaser"
My '74 O'Day 27 also has excessive tiller play. In my case, a bolt passes through the tiller cap and the top of the rudder post. The holes on both sides of the tiller cap have excessive wear (they are oval not round). I have been planning to pull the bolt and bore out a slightly larger hole through the rudder post and replace the bolt with the next size larger. Any comments would be welcome. Jim Cook "Dream Chaser"
D
David Mendels
Weakening the shaft
My concern would be in weakening the shaft since the bigger the hole, the smaller the wall. Indeed, my main concern, aside from the annoyance of the play, is that we are putting an awful lot of strain on that hole, or more precisely, that wall. I would feel a whole lot better if I could get a nice firm fit, clamp it down, and leave the bolt and hole (wall) to just play a safety role. I'm just not sure how to do it.
My concern would be in weakening the shaft since the bigger the hole, the smaller the wall. Indeed, my main concern, aside from the annoyance of the play, is that we are putting an awful lot of strain on that hole, or more precisely, that wall. I would feel a whole lot better if I could get a nice firm fit, clamp it down, and leave the bolt and hole (wall) to just play a safety role. I'm just not sure how to do it.
D
David Mendels
Thanks, but what's next
Thanks for your reply. I only wish that tightening was enough. Unfortunately it is not. I am also concerned about the strain we are putting on the hole (or wall of the hole). A snug fit with the bolt as a safety would seem much less likely to cause problems. I just don't know how to get there. David
Thanks for your reply. I only wish that tightening was enough. Unfortunately it is not. I am also concerned about the strain we are putting on the hole (or wall of the hole). A snug fit with the bolt as a safety would seem much less likely to cause problems. I just don't know how to get there. David
D
David Mendels
I spoke with the Surveyor
I got hold of the surveyor and asked his advice. He confirmed that it should be a snug fit on the shaft and that I need to be concerned about the wear on the shaft hole walls. He suggested getting brass shim stock at the hardware store and using enough to make the fit snug and the bolt only holds everything in place. I will try this weekend and post the results. Anyone ever done this before? Any advice? Otherwise wish me luck. David
I got hold of the surveyor and asked his advice. He confirmed that it should be a snug fit on the shaft and that I need to be concerned about the wear on the shaft hole walls. He suggested getting brass shim stock at the hardware store and using enough to make the fit snug and the bolt only holds everything in place. I will try this weekend and post the results. Anyone ever done this before? Any advice? Otherwise wish me luck. David
D
David Mendels
It worked like a charm
I tried the brass shim technique and it worked beautifully. My only addition to it was to buy a couple of small wedges (the kind you use on the wooden handle of a hammer) and used them to gently open up the cap a bit more (about twice the gap) so that when I had the shims fitting snuggly, I could remove the wedges and have a bit more to clamp down with. The only other caution I would add is that he brass shim stock was $2.50/INCH. I used 3 layers so you can go from that. Good luck. I hope it helps you. David
I tried the brass shim technique and it worked beautifully. My only addition to it was to buy a couple of small wedges (the kind you use on the wooden handle of a hammer) and used them to gently open up the cap a bit more (about twice the gap) so that when I had the shims fitting snuggly, I could remove the wedges and have a bit more to clamp down with. The only other caution I would add is that he brass shim stock was $2.50/INCH. I used 3 layers so you can go from that. Good luck. I hope it helps you. David
J
Jim Cook
Maybe I misunderstood.
My tiller cap fits fairly snug. My biggest problem seems to be the wear on the holes in the cap. I'll try the shim stock, but I still need to resolve the holes in the tiller cap. Any suggestions? Jim Cook "Dream Chaser"
My tiller cap fits fairly snug. My biggest problem seems to be the wear on the holes in the cap. I'll try the shim stock, but I still need to resolve the holes in the tiller cap. Any suggestions? Jim Cook "Dream Chaser"
- Status
- Not open for further replies.