Tiller Pilot

$tingy Sailor · Apr 12, 2014

I installed a Raymarine ST1000+, which is almost the same thing, on our C22 and it was pretty straightforward. Follow the instructions closely and pay careful attention to the mounting geometry, for example, how the angle of your tiller affects the attachment and range of motion. Think through the location of the wiring, including any bulkhead connector. Wire it now for any accessories that you may want to connect to it later, like a GPS. Reinforce the gunwale well where you put the mounting socket.

I will be posting an extensive article on autopilot installation on my blog in the near future, perhaps with video. Sorry its not available for you now, but if you have any questions as you go along, there are a lot of guys here who've done it too and will be glad to help.

CaptDon01 · Apr 12, 2014

I've installed, and re-installed several Raymarine tiller autohelms in boats the past couple years. One BIG mistake I've seen from previous owner installations is trying to install the autohelms as cheap as possible. This has led to some half-ass butcher jobs that ultimately didn't work. Keep in mind any of the autopilots need some type of adapter. They can't include the parts that may be required for every installation. I like to keep things simple, clean, and with minimal hole drilling. The two critical installation points is the autohelm needs to be level, and at 90 degrees to the tiller when centered. Figure out what adapters you will need to correctly and neatly install the autohelm, and have them with you when you begin the project, (and keep in mind, the parts required for a neat and working installation are probably not found at Home Depot or Lowes). Also think how the installation will workout down the road, i.e., if you install an adapter on your tiller, will the tiller cover still fit on? Will the installation still allow you to use the cockpit cushions? Think about what electrical device or electrical run in the autohelm's location that could cause problems with the internal fluxgate compass. If you need to move the autohelm location an inch or so forward or back to get a better, easier installation, it won't hurt a thing, but remember, this effects the range of motion, and the force on the tiller. Using my C-22 installation as an example, it's located slightly different of the recommended distance from the rudder piviting point. It just simplified my installation and allowed me to install the power plug in the cockpit locker with the autohelm just clearing the locker hatch. I hate drilling holes in my boat, and I didn't care to drill a BIG hole required for the autopilot power plug. So as the photo shows, it's located in the aft locker, and my Dremel tool made a nice easy point in the hatch to run the cable. This has worked out very well, is waterproof, and is also used to route my shore power cord when the boat is in the slip,(again, no big hole was required for the power cord hook-up). The cord moves back and forth freely without binding, and after several years and a lot of use, there is no damage or chaffing of the cord.

Good luck, an autohelm is one of the BEST upgrades we've made to out boat, and really makes getting to your destination less tiring from having to man the tiller all the time.

Don

$tingy Sailor · Apr 12, 2014

Don,

I admire how you did that. Did you make a slot in your laz lid seal for the cord to go through before it comes out your slot in the lid or are your lazarettes not sealed?

Stu Jackson · Apr 12, 2014

hewebb said:
I ordered a Simrad TP22 and it arrived yesterday. I hope to bring the boat home next week and start the installation. I plan to install it on the port side to keep it out of the way of the starboard cockpit seat storage box lid. Do any of you have any suggestions or advise on the installation.

My boat is a 1988 Catalina 25 w/Universal inboard.

Thanks

We had an '81 C25. With an outboard and the gas tank locker to port, with the cockpit seat storage box lid to starboard.

I deliberately put it on the starboard side.

Why?

1. Not so much room in that locker anyway, good for a few lines maybe. Easy to get to even with the ap there.

2. I could easily glue a backing plate to the underside of that lid.

3. I did NOT want to put it up on the coaming and use any extender rods. The installation manual even says they're not such a good idea.

4. I purchased a Raymarine black colored steel tiller bracket and put it UNDER the tiller. It was a Navico pilot, but the pins worked on the ap head.

5. The starboard seat cushion continued to be used, I just moved it forward so the front part of it was against the back of the cabin - built in backrest!

My daughter's idea!

I sold that boat in 1998, so I forget exactly where I put the wiring plug, most likely in the face of the cockpit seat wall just below the seat - easy enough to wire from almost anywhere.

Since you have an inboard engine, access to the fuel storage locker may not be high on your priority list, but I'll bet you could find good uses for that much larger space and "sacrifice" the small starboard locker as I did.

Good luck.

$tingy Sailor · Apr 13, 2014

With the Raymarine at least, the pin stays, and they recommend epoxy both for the pin alone and for the bracket bolts if you need a bracket to mount the AP level.

CaptDon01 · Apr 13, 2014

Ditto on the Raymarine tiller pin staying. I marked my drill for the proper depth with some tape, and drilled the hole. Sanded the pin to roughen it up for the epoxy to grab onto. Fill the hole with some WEST epoxy and then used a C-clamp to press the pin into the tiller and let it cure. Some epoxy will ooze out, so have some acetone handy to wipe it up. "HINT" Mark the pin location with the rudder and tiller assembly installed. Then drill your hole. This way you can ensure of the exact location, and keep the drill straight up to ensure the pin will be correctly installed.

Don

Tiller Pilot

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