When I took my boat out of the water for the winter my tiller was hard to remove from the rudder casing. The securing bolt was enlarging the hole in the tiller and the top aft end of the tiller was hitting on the casing and starting to splinter. I'm wondering if I should rethink the way I tie off the tiller while at the dock. I currently lash the tiller off to one side against the starboard side of the split backstay. I used to tie it off amidships. Maybe that's a better method. Or totally remove the tiller, but then how to tie off the rudder. Dang! I seem to get the most damage to my boat while it rocks and rolls at the dock unattended between weekends!
- Status
tiller
Mike , I have never tied mine off , I think if it can move freely there is less chance of damage, a few times at the boat swim when it is really bad I have tried to secure it and to me it just seems better to let it move , then it is not banging around just how rough can it get where your dock is?? You can fill the hole with epoxy and then redrill, nice winter project, take care Mike
Mike , I have never tied mine off , I think if it can move freely there is less chance of damage, a few times at the boat swim when it is really bad I have tried to secure it and to me it just seems better to let it move , then it is not banging around just how rough can it get where your dock is?? You can fill the hole with epoxy and then redrill, nice winter project, take care Mike
Tiller tamer
Mike, I have been using a tiller tamer to hold the rudder midship while docked or anchored for many years with excellent results. I believe that the rudder will experience more wear if it is not secured than if it is. Crazy Dave may be the most experienced voice on this matter.
Mike, I have been using a tiller tamer to hold the rudder midship while docked or anchored for many years with excellent results. I believe that the rudder will experience more wear if it is not secured than if it is. Crazy Dave may be the most experienced voice on this matter.
Tiller
I use a tiller cover.I had two ss rings attached near the back, one on each side.I tie these off to horn cleats near the stern.Keeps the rudder centered and protects against UV at the same time.
I use a tiller cover.I had two ss rings attached near the back, one on each side.I tie these off to horn cleats near the stern.Keeps the rudder centered and protects against UV at the same time.
I Brace my Rudder
On my 23.5 I had used a Tiller Tamer to keep the rudder in place but it wore out the hole in the tiller where it attaches to the rudder. Now I can secure the rudder remove the tiller and get more room in the cockpit. http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=73179330744&fno=17
On my 23.5 I had used a Tiller Tamer to keep the rudder in place but it wore out the hole in the tiller where it attaches to the rudder. Now I can secure the rudder remove the tiller and get more room in the cockpit. http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=73179330744&fno=17
Tiller tied
On my 23.5 I always tie the tiller up, centering it and lashing a line around it,tied off to both the stern cleats as shown in the photo. I also lift the rudder from the water and tie it in the up position, when not sailing.
On my 23.5 I always tie the tiller up, centering it and lashing a line around it,tied off to both the stern cleats as shown in the photo. I also lift the rudder from the water and tie it in the up position, when not sailing.
I made a brace like Rick's
I have the same boat and the same problem as Rick Webb. The threads on the hex bolt wallowed out the hole in the tiller from tieing the tiller off to the horn cleats or the stern rail seats. Based on his pictures, I made an identical brace and it works great. I use it when anchored or drifting while swimming, making it much easier getting in and out with the swim ladder. Previously, I centered and tied it as shown in Mike's picture, but then you have to step over the line. To fix the tiller bolt hole, I drilled a new hole (now there are _three_) and got a longer hex bolt so the shoulder (smooth part) is long enough to reach completely through the tiller. I used a hacksaw to cut off the extra 1/2 inch of threads. Of course, with the rudder brace you could argue that the new bolt wasn't necessary. ...RickM...
I have the same boat and the same problem as Rick Webb. The threads on the hex bolt wallowed out the hole in the tiller from tieing the tiller off to the horn cleats or the stern rail seats. Based on his pictures, I made an identical brace and it works great. I use it when anchored or drifting while swimming, making it much easier getting in and out with the swim ladder. Previously, I centered and tied it as shown in Mike's picture, but then you have to step over the line. To fix the tiller bolt hole, I drilled a new hole (now there are _three_) and got a longer hex bolt so the shoulder (smooth part) is long enough to reach completely through the tiller. I used a hacksaw to cut off the extra 1/2 inch of threads. Of course, with the rudder brace you could argue that the new bolt wasn't necessary. ...RickM...
- Status