Have pulled my New (to me) boat and am looking at thru-hulls. How can I tell if they are good or need maintenance/replacement?
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If the are gate valves they have got to go.
If the valves are gate valves just replace them. If they are ball valves/seacocks check for corrosion and if they look good just lube them up so you are ready to put her back in the water. Be sure to check your hoses and the clamps. All of the hoses below or at the water line should be double clamped with no rust or corrosion. NEXT....
If the valves are gate valves just replace them. If they are ball valves/seacocks check for corrosion and if they look good just lube them up so you are ready to put her back in the water. Be sure to check your hoses and the clamps. All of the hoses below or at the water line should be double clamped with no rust or corrosion. NEXT....
V
Victor
Through-hull vs valve ?
I also have a new-to-me Hunter (Passage 42, 1991). The air conditioning seacock was frozen open when I bought the boat. With much coaxing, it now closes to about 90%, enough to let me clean the filter without getting too wet, but leaks at the valve handle when in this position. I asked the price of what looked like the same valve at the local marine store and was informed that this was an in-line valve, not a seacock. The fellow helping showed me a similar valve with a large triangular "foot" which screwed into the external through-hull and could then be screwed to the wood disk which is on all my through-hulls. He insisted that this was a true seacock, because it provides support against flex at the through-hull fitting, which seems to make sense. Although all the through-hull fittings on my Hunter have a wooden disc around them, the internal fitting does not seem to take advantage of the expanded surface area. What kind of valve should I use as the replacement ? Any comments or clarification would be much appreciated. Victor & Connie Bluebird
I also have a new-to-me Hunter (Passage 42, 1991). The air conditioning seacock was frozen open when I bought the boat. With much coaxing, it now closes to about 90%, enough to let me clean the filter without getting too wet, but leaks at the valve handle when in this position. I asked the price of what looked like the same valve at the local marine store and was informed that this was an in-line valve, not a seacock. The fellow helping showed me a similar valve with a large triangular "foot" which screwed into the external through-hull and could then be screwed to the wood disk which is on all my through-hulls. He insisted that this was a true seacock, because it provides support against flex at the through-hull fitting, which seems to make sense. Although all the through-hull fittings on my Hunter have a wooden disc around them, the internal fitting does not seem to take advantage of the expanded surface area. What kind of valve should I use as the replacement ? Any comments or clarification would be much appreciated. Victor & Connie Bluebird
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Ed Schenck
Thru-hull dilemma...
This subject should have lots of attention in the "Forum Archives". You definitely want to replace the "faucets"(gate valves). The main problem seems to be that Hunter placed many of the thru-hulls such that a real seacock cannot be screwed on. There is possibly a bulkhead too close or the surface isn't flat or some other impediment. I think on many Hunters you would have to move the thru-hulls to add true seacocks. My boat had the elbow on the thru-hulls with gate valves on the elbow. I simply replaced the gate valves with bronze ball valves. Not the best but I can see whether they are open. And I know closed is closed!
This subject should have lots of attention in the "Forum Archives". You definitely want to replace the "faucets"(gate valves). The main problem seems to be that Hunter placed many of the thru-hulls such that a real seacock cannot be screwed on. There is possibly a bulkhead too close or the surface isn't flat or some other impediment. I think on many Hunters you would have to move the thru-hulls to add true seacocks. My boat had the elbow on the thru-hulls with gate valves on the elbow. I simply replaced the gate valves with bronze ball valves. Not the best but I can see whether they are open. And I know closed is closed!
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Mark
Thru Hulls vs valves or seacocks
If I read your question correctly your are wondering about the "piece" that goes thru the hull of your boat, not the valve that attaches to the thru hull and keeps the water out. As for the valves read the previous posts. Marine grade ball valves or seacocks is the only way to go. Whether they are bronze or Marelon that is another whole discussion, and the jury is still out for me on that one. As for maintenance on the valves, use either Lanacote, silicone grease, or Teflon grease. I grease them up every year. To tell if your thru hulls are in good shape, scrape the paint off the mushroom end on the outside of the hull to expose the bronze metal. If it has a pinkish color, it has lost the nickel due to electrolysis corrosion and the thru hull needs to be replaced. The next question is why did this happen?? Each and every one of your thru hulls should be "grounded" to keep the above from happening. If they are then, either you have a boat that has serious electrical problems (assuming you keep the boat plugged in when at dock) or there is a boat very near where you are moored that is a leaker. Another indication of a major corrosion problem is your zinc will be seriously eaten or gone. As for replacing the thru hull...good luck that is a tough job. Luckily all of mine are in great shape. The only one I have had any success to remove to inspect and rebed was my small engine water intake. My 1 1/4" thruhull for the head discharge and sink discharge didn't even budge. Just too much surface area which is probably bedded w/ 3M 5100 adhesive. Good luck.
If I read your question correctly your are wondering about the "piece" that goes thru the hull of your boat, not the valve that attaches to the thru hull and keeps the water out. As for the valves read the previous posts. Marine grade ball valves or seacocks is the only way to go. Whether they are bronze or Marelon that is another whole discussion, and the jury is still out for me on that one. As for maintenance on the valves, use either Lanacote, silicone grease, or Teflon grease. I grease them up every year. To tell if your thru hulls are in good shape, scrape the paint off the mushroom end on the outside of the hull to expose the bronze metal. If it has a pinkish color, it has lost the nickel due to electrolysis corrosion and the thru hull needs to be replaced. The next question is why did this happen?? Each and every one of your thru hulls should be "grounded" to keep the above from happening. If they are then, either you have a boat that has serious electrical problems (assuming you keep the boat plugged in when at dock) or there is a boat very near where you are moored that is a leaker. Another indication of a major corrosion problem is your zinc will be seriously eaten or gone. As for replacing the thru hull...good luck that is a tough job. Luckily all of mine are in great shape. The only one I have had any success to remove to inspect and rebed was my small engine water intake. My 1 1/4" thruhull for the head discharge and sink discharge didn't even budge. Just too much surface area which is probably bedded w/ 3M 5100 adhesive. Good luck.
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