Thru-Hull Transducer Install

  • Thread starter Allen Schweitzer
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Allen Schweitzer

Ok, So this was one of those stupid mistakes that happens from time to time & I need some opinions on how to fix it. Per the instructions of the BoatUS manager, I installed my Raymarine depth transducer with the rubber gasket on the outside of the hull. It should have gone on the inside. I like to do everything as perfect as I can, so I decided to cut the gasket off the outer part of the hull with the idea that I would pull out the transducer, clean off the old 4200 caulk, re-bed & re-install. The problem is that the 4200 won't budge. I got it within 12 hours of the installation & it still wouldn't budge. At this point I have a very securely installed transducer whose flanges protrude about 1/4" beyond where it should. I work the thing back & forth for about 20 minutes & it won't come loose. From the inside of the boat I put my weight on it & it STILL won't budge. Raymarine specifically says that solvents will weaken the plastic on the transducer, otherwise I would have used that to get the old one out. What to do? I end up applying a liberal amount of additional 4200 on the now-cleaned exposed flanges on the outside of the hull & very gently crank a boat stand up on the transducer to the point where the boat stand is acting like a screw jack. This, finally, gets the transducer up enough so that the flanges are flush with the hull as they should be. I used carpet to cushion the transducer so it wouldn't do any damage. I then hop inside the boat and thread on the backing plate, remove the boat stand and the installation is complete. My concern is that the original 4200 still wants to return to the original position and is putting additional strain on the nylon backing plate. Should I be concerned with this? Any opinions out there? Allen Schweitzer s/v Falstaff C-30 Hull# 632
 
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Ed Allen

great recovery

Sounds to me like you have made a great recovery! i would watch it but its probably fine.
 
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Miles

That sounds like something I would do ;.)

When in doubt get a bigger hammer! I wonder if the 4200 is still attached or maybe you ripped it off? You could always loosen the backing plate and see if it wants to pop back out or stay where it is. That should give you some idea of how much strain it's under...
 
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Justin - O'day Owners' Web

I wouldn't mess . . .

4200 is amazing stuff. I'd bet that the original install, the the flange exposed would have held. Now you've got even more sealant and mechanical fastening. I'd bet that transducer is the strongest part of your boat! I too would keep an eye on it but not worry about it. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
 
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Rodd C.

Stop using 4200/5200!!!!!

I still don't know why boaters insist on using an adhesive caulk for jobs that don't need an adhesive? I use 3M 101 for most everything including thru hulls and transducers. 101 is easy to remove and certified for below the waterline applications. I hate 4200 and 5200 and can't beleive that 3M has suckered so many unwary boaters into the scam.....I think they are in cahoots with the boat yards. 4200 and 5200 ruin stuff and then the boat yard gets called in to clean up the mess. Maybe 3M gets a kick back who knows?? The only place 5200 should ever be used is the hull/deck joint during the manufacturing process. If you want to glue something use West Systems.........As for your thru hull try anti-bond! What have you got to loose? Worst case scenario is that you still need to buy a new transducer and a tube of 101....Good Luck!!!!! -Rodd C.
 
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Tom

I thought 4200 was "semi" permanent compared

to 5200. I thought this was the stuff to use if you "might" want to remove something in the future. Alan you are probably ok. But I think you might have still gotten that thru-hull transducer out. I heard piano wire will cut right through it. Plus West Marine has some 5200 "solvent" that isn't "supposed" to affect fiberglass. its called "Anti-Bond 2015" See link below/.
 
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