Thru Hull Transducer Install

dfrancis23 · May 19, 2014

perfect timing, I'm at the point of deciding on keeping the old shoot thru or adding a true thru hull triducer. The thought worries me though, as I've read varied problems and issues with both thru hulls and paddle wheel sensors.

Guts1236 · May 19, 2014

I would add my two cents for what it's worth, a couple months ago I asked a friend of mine who had a 38 foot Hans Christian which they cruised for two years. I asked Doug when you pull up to an anchorage how do you know whether or not it's rock or sand/mud. He said I'm not sure about that, never been asked that question. I told him on my fishing boat I have a furuno 582 L with a 1 KW transducer. I told him I could tell the difference between a hard bottom/rocky bottom, or a soft/Sandy bottom. With that said, the next transducer will be a through haul and at least 600 W maybe 1 KW transducer.

Of course she would have to have the machine to go along with this transducer, I'm a Furuno guy, so I would probably put the replacement for a 582 L that I have on my fishing skiff. The other Advantage to this, is if you got really hungry and had to have some fish or just wanted to catch some fish, for dinner let's say. Then you have a hot meter/machine that will give you more than depth, and also tell you the consistency of the bottom. Which is important when you want to drop the hook.

Don't beat me up on this, it's just my opinion. And I'm going to put a good air mar transducer the next time I haul out.

Kim a.k.a. guts

Waybad · May 20, 2014

Boat Life has a polysulfide, which is what 3M 101 was. Which is replaced with fast cure 4000. I complained to the 3M rep. as Have used 101 for over 30 years. He insisted it was better. I am trying some out, but the jury is out. Boat Life polysulfide seem just a little bit thinner.
I glassed a 4 inch PVC coupling to the hull, cut to fit angle so transducer was pointing straight down. Mounted transducer in PVC screw in cap. filled with mineral oil. works great. Good luck. waybad

Picflight · May 20, 2014

Guts1236 said:
I would add my two cents for what it's worth, a couple months ago I asked a friend of mine who had a 38 foot Hans Christian which they cruised for two years. I asked Doug when you pull up to an anchorage how do you know whether or not it's rock or sand/mud. He said I'm not sure about that, never been asked that question. I told him on my fishing boat I have a furuno 582 L with a 1 KW transducer. I told him I could tell the difference between a hard bottom/rocky bottom, or a soft/Sandy bottom. With that said, the next transducer will be a through haul and at least 600 W maybe 1 KW transducer.

Of course she would have to have the machine to go along with this transducer, I'm a Furuno guy, so I would probably put the replacement for a 582 L that I have on my fishing skiff. The other Advantage to this, is if you got really hungry and had to have some fish or just wanted to catch some fish, for dinner let's say. Then you have a hot meter/machine that will give you more than depth, and also tell you the consistency of the bottom. Which is important when you want to drop the hook.

Don't beat me up on this, it's just my opinion. And I'm going to put a good air mar transducer the next time I haul out.

Kim a.k.a. guts

What model airmar do you have in mind?

Guts1236 · May 21, 2014

Picflight said:
What model airmar do you have in mind?

The one I used on my Boston Whaler Montauk was a Cams BR7 as I recall but that would be relevant to which machine you're using. The BR stands for bronze and the "7" is how long the shaft is coming up the transducer. This transducer goes with a Furuno FCV- 582 L

This transducer is shaped somewhat similar to a football in other words with a point front and back. You would need to use a fairing block that's where the long shaft on the transducer comes in to play.

All I'm trying to say is use a machine matched with a transducer that is capable of getting your good reading of the bottom.

tailwind · May 22, 2014

Those high wattage transducers pull some juice, don't they? I'm thinking sailboat, not powerboat. Otherwise, I think the fewer holes you have to put in the hull the better. If you want to check the bottom drop a proper lead line. The hole in the bottom will usually pull up something, unless it's rock, in which case you should be able to feel it bouncing off the bottom. Waybad's solution allows you to easily position the sensor vertically, as well. I guess the only through-hull sensor that makes sense to me (for a sailboat) is a tridata sensor which gives you speed, depth and temperature.

Pur Hasard · May 23, 2014

video about speed transducer replacment

Argyle38 said:
Hi Maine,

I was wondering what you opinion is on the best way to seal up a through-hull depth transducer/fishfinder. I'm putting a Ray-B260 on Argyle this year. The last time I messed with below the waterline through-hulls, I used 3M 101 polysuflide to seal it up and that seemed to work great for the application. That stuff doesn't exist anymore, however.

Is there a good alternative to the 101? It seems you like the "Boat-Life" stuff when not using Butyl, topsides. Do they have a product that you use for sealing below the waterline?

In addition to the sealant, I'm curious about how to handle the fairing? The transducer comes with a fairing to help with drag and make installing on a deadrise easier. Do I just use sealant on the fairing just as I wold on the bronze through-hull.

Hull is solid glass, ~20-25 degree deadrise at the install location.

Thanks for any advice

-Argyle

Can you give me the link to a video about how to changer a ST60 speed sensor on a fiberglass hull?