Hi all - I need to replace one of my Thru-hulls tomorrow. What is the best type of sealant to use on a bronze thru-hull....4200 or should I go with 5200? Thanks - Rob
Thru-Hull Sealant / 4200 or 5200
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How long till I could launch
What should be a safe period of time to launch with 5200 fast cure? Is 24 hours OK? Would salt water afect the curing process? Thruhull is below the waterline. Thx - Rob
What should be a safe period of time to launch with 5200 fast cure? Is 24 hours OK? Would salt water afect the curing process? Thruhull is below the waterline. Thx - Rob
Check out 3M's site
Rob, 3M has a great website - check out their product selector: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Adhesive_Sealant You can drill into each recommended product and it'll give you the skinny on tack and cure times, etc. 5200 Fast Cure is tack free in an hour and fully cures in 24. Standard 5200 is tack free in about 5 hours and the cure time is much longer... Dave Crowley s/v Wind Dreamer II
Rob, 3M has a great website - check out their product selector: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Adhesive_Sealant You can drill into each recommended product and it'll give you the skinny on tack and cure times, etc. 5200 Fast Cure is tack free in an hour and fully cures in 24. Standard 5200 is tack free in about 5 hours and the cure time is much longer... Dave Crowley s/v Wind Dreamer II
Thanks All
I will go with 5200 fast cure or Sikaflex as mentioned below then....should be OK with a 24 hour launch to follow. My concern was getting the thruhull out someday but we will cross that bridge when we come to it. Thanks again. - Rob
I will go with 5200 fast cure or Sikaflex as mentioned below then....should be OK with a 24 hour launch to follow. My concern was getting the thruhull out someday but we will cross that bridge when we come to it. Thanks again. - Rob
I agree with Jim G
Sikaflex is a better product IMHO! Sikaflex may be harder to find but it is a much better product with lower death grip. Hinckly, Morris & Lyman Morse, to name just a few of the top notch Maine yards, use Sika not 3M. If you must use 3M use 4200! For a fast cure below the H2o line use Sikaflex 291 and you can launch within 24 hours.
Sikaflex is a better product IMHO! Sikaflex may be harder to find but it is a much better product with lower death grip. Hinckly, Morris & Lyman Morse, to name just a few of the top notch Maine yards, use Sika not 3M. If you must use 3M use 4200! For a fast cure below the H2o line use Sikaflex 291 and you can launch within 24 hours.
5200 ??
I am surprised with the 5200 recommendations. I thought this stuff was for permanent bonding. What does one do when it's time to replace that thru-hull again in the future?
I am surprised with the 5200 recommendations. I thought this stuff was for permanent bonding. What does one do when it's time to replace that thru-hull again in the future?
I wouldnt use 5200 on a throughull either.
Someday you will have to replace the through-hull and even if you grind off the exposed face of the throughhull that 5200 between the hull bore and the throughull is going to be BITCH to remove. 4200 !!!!! ... as its not 'permanent'.
Someday you will have to replace the through-hull and even if you grind off the exposed face of the throughhull that 5200 between the hull bore and the throughull is going to be BITCH to remove. 4200 !!!!! ... as its not 'permanent'.
4200 indeed !
I should have added that I replaced one myself this spring. I used 4200. The boat has been in the water for 1.5 month, no leak, no problem.
I should have added that I replaced one myself this spring. I used 4200. The boat has been in the water for 1.5 month, no leak, no problem.
Maine ----
Can you even imagine taking off a through hull thats been applied with 5200 ???? Lets see: gind the face off flush with the outside of the hull, grind off the tailstock of the thoughhull inside the boat .... then get a 1-3/4" drill and remove whats stuck in the hull bore .... dont think so.
Can you even imagine taking off a through hull thats been applied with 5200 ???? Lets see: gind the face off flush with the outside of the hull, grind off the tailstock of the thoughhull inside the boat .... then get a 1-3/4" drill and remove whats stuck in the hull bore .... dont think so.
Thanks for that - 5200 shouldn't be used
anywhere on a boat except for the hull to deck joint. 4200 is almost as bad. MaineSail's story is just more proof of that and indicates the damage that can result to bedding something with adhesive instead of a seal. How much more proof do the 5200-gang guys need?
anywhere on a boat except for the hull to deck joint. 4200 is almost as bad. MaineSail's story is just more proof of that and indicates the damage that can result to bedding something with adhesive instead of a seal. How much more proof do the 5200-gang guys need?
4200 vs. 5200
4200 is 300psi tensile strength and 5200 is 700psi tensile strength. 5200 is more than double the strength of 4200!
4200 is 300psi tensile strength and 5200 is 700psi tensile strength. 5200 is more than double the strength of 4200!
Why would we care about the tensile strength?
I hear this year after year about 5200. Why would we care about the strength of a product that is totally fasten to the hull by a ball valve or seacock that is fastened by a backer board and a thru hull mushroom fitting. Do you really think it is going to go somewhere. These things have a real possibility of getting electrolysis or corrosion when they live in saltwater so the likely hood of replacement is always a possibility. I agree that there are very few sailor that will remove their hull from their deck, so this may be a good place to use 5200. But not for a seacock/thru hull fitting of any sort. This item will be discussed within 1 week to 6 months again and the same arguments will come up.
I hear this year after year about 5200. Why would we care about the strength of a product that is totally fasten to the hull by a ball valve or seacock that is fastened by a backer board and a thru hull mushroom fitting. Do you really think it is going to go somewhere. These things have a real possibility of getting electrolysis or corrosion when they live in saltwater so the likely hood of replacement is always a possibility. I agree that there are very few sailor that will remove their hull from their deck, so this may be a good place to use 5200. But not for a seacock/thru hull fitting of any sort. This item will be discussed within 1 week to 6 months again and the same arguments will come up.
Yeah it's kind of like...
Yeah it's kind of like welding on your lug nuts. Think about it? Lug nuts spin at 70-80 mph for thousands of miles on end, take massive pot hole hits, deal with poor alignments and tires out of balance and rarely get tightened or looked at between tire changes, for most drivers, and nobody glues them to the hub? A through hull is fastened with larger threads and similar torque, if done right, yet does not spin, move or hit massive pot holes yet people insist on "welding" them to the hull with 5200. All you really need is an underwater capable sealant. Even 4200 is slightly over kill.
Yeah it's kind of like welding on your lug nuts. Think about it? Lug nuts spin at 70-80 mph for thousands of miles on end, take massive pot hole hits, deal with poor alignments and tires out of balance and rarely get tightened or looked at between tire changes, for most drivers, and nobody glues them to the hub? A through hull is fastened with larger threads and similar torque, if done right, yet does not spin, move or hit massive pot holes yet people insist on "welding" them to the hull with 5200. All you really need is an underwater capable sealant. Even 4200 is slightly over kill.
Well I thought
you wanted a pliable sealant. Something to fill up the void between the hull and the fitting and stay soft so changes in temp etc don't cause a leak. Aaaahhh polysulfide?!?!?
you wanted a pliable sealant. Something to fill up the void between the hull and the fitting and stay soft so changes in temp etc don't cause a leak. Aaaahhh polysulfide?!?!?
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