When I haul out this spring for new bottom paint, I want to replace my thru hulls. I have two that I never use, one is a 1 1/2" that was used for direct discharge thru a Y valve from the head. The other is a 1" for salt water pump at galley sink. My question is does anyone make a "solid" thru hull "plug" that would fit in place of existing thru hull that could be removed if desired in the future? My thru hulls are the flat type that have a tapered hole in hull. I currently have caps on them, but they are still a concern and I don't want to fill them in as the next owner may want to have them reinstalled. TIA Forrest
Thru hull plug??
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When I haul out this spring for new bottom paint, I want to replace my thru hulls. I have two that I never use, one is a 1 1/2" that was used for direct discharge thru a Y valve from the head. The other is a 1" for salt water pump at galley sink. My question is does anyone make a "solid" thru hull "plug" that would fit in place of existing thru hull that could be removed if desired in the future? My thru hulls are the flat type that have a tapered hole in hull. I currently have caps on them, but they are still a concern and I don't want to fill them in as the next owner may want to have them reinstalled. TIA Forrest
Don't know of any
replacement plugs in lue of thru hull. One thing to think about is the bonding of the ones you have caped right now? Valves have a thredded screw that allows for this bond to be made I doubt your caps do. There are several threads right now regarding thru hulls , you might read them as there has been some great decussions going on. The Head discharge is most likly above water and might not be so critical to bonding but check it out. I personally would just keep good valves on( with plugs installed ) instead of just plugs or caps, and leave the thru hulls as designed for there aplication. IMHO
replacement plugs in lue of thru hull. One thing to think about is the bonding of the ones you have caped right now? Valves have a thredded screw that allows for this bond to be made I doubt your caps do. There are several threads right now regarding thru hulls , you might read them as there has been some great decussions going on. The Head discharge is most likly above water and might not be so critical to bonding but check it out. I personally would just keep good valves on( with plugs installed ) instead of just plugs or caps, and leave the thru hulls as designed for there aplication. IMHO
Don't know of any
replacement plugs in lue of thru hull. One thing to think about is the bonding of the ones you have caped right now? Valves have a thredded screw that allows for this bond to be made I doubt your caps do. There are several threads right now regarding thru hulls , you might read them as there has been some great decussions going on. The Head discharge is most likly above water and might not be so critical to bonding but check it out. I personally would just keep good valves on( with plugs installed ) instead of just plugs or caps, and leave the thru hulls as designed for there aplication. IMHO
replacement plugs in lue of thru hull. One thing to think about is the bonding of the ones you have caped right now? Valves have a thredded screw that allows for this bond to be made I doubt your caps do. There are several threads right now regarding thru hulls , you might read them as there has been some great decussions going on. The Head discharge is most likly above water and might not be so critical to bonding but check it out. I personally would just keep good valves on( with plugs installed ) instead of just plugs or caps, and leave the thru hulls as designed for there aplication. IMHO
I agree with stillraining..
A through hull, the part with the mushroom head on the outside of the boat, has what's referred to as NPS threads or "straigth threads" and I'm 99.9% positive the cap you are using has NPT threads or "tapered threads". 99% of all through hulls, in existence, are straight thread because the length may need to be cut shorter based on a particular the hulls thickness. With NPT threads you can't cut them or you'll looses the tapered to tapered effect. NPT threads to another NPT product. NPS threads to another NPS product. NPT and NPS should NEVER be used together! The caps you are referring to are most likely a regular "plumbing" style and thus are NPT thread. NPT and NPS are NOT designed to work together! Remove the plugs and through hulls and fiberglass them holes in the proper fashion..! NPS bronze caps are nearly impossible to find and chandleries only really stock NPT..
A through hull, the part with the mushroom head on the outside of the boat, has what's referred to as NPS threads or "straigth threads" and I'm 99.9% positive the cap you are using has NPT threads or "tapered threads". 99% of all through hulls, in existence, are straight thread because the length may need to be cut shorter based on a particular the hulls thickness. With NPT threads you can't cut them or you'll looses the tapered to tapered effect. NPT threads to another NPT product. NPS threads to another NPS product. NPT and NPS should NEVER be used together! The caps you are referring to are most likely a regular "plumbing" style and thus are NPT thread. NPT and NPS are NOT designed to work together! Remove the plugs and through hulls and fiberglass them holes in the proper fashion..! NPS bronze caps are nearly impossible to find and chandleries only really stock NPT..
I agree with stillraining..
A through hull, the part with the mushroom head on the outside of the boat, has what's referred to as NPS threads or "straigth threads" and I'm 99.9% positive the cap you are using has NPT threads or "tapered threads". 99% of all through hulls, in existence, are straight thread because the length may need to be cut shorter based on a particular the hulls thickness. With NPT threads you can't cut them or you'll looses the tapered to tapered effect. NPT threads to another NPT product. NPS threads to another NPS product. NPT and NPS should NEVER be used together! The caps you are referring to are most likely a regular "plumbing" style and thus are NPT thread. NPT and NPS are NOT designed to work together! Remove the plugs and through hulls and fiberglass them holes in the proper fashion..! NPS bronze caps are nearly impossible to find and chandleries only really stock NPT..
A through hull, the part with the mushroom head on the outside of the boat, has what's referred to as NPS threads or "straigth threads" and I'm 99.9% positive the cap you are using has NPT threads or "tapered threads". 99% of all through hulls, in existence, are straight thread because the length may need to be cut shorter based on a particular the hulls thickness. With NPT threads you can't cut them or you'll looses the tapered to tapered effect. NPT threads to another NPT product. NPS threads to another NPS product. NPT and NPS should NEVER be used together! The caps you are referring to are most likely a regular "plumbing" style and thus are NPT thread. NPT and NPS are NOT designed to work together! Remove the plugs and through hulls and fiberglass them holes in the proper fashion..! NPS bronze caps are nearly impossible to find and chandleries only really stock NPT..
When I got Bietzpadlin there were six holes in the bottom
Some were intake and some were discharge. Now there are four to intakes one for the engine and one for the head. There are two discharge drains for the galley sink and the wash basin in the head. These two are glassed in pipes carried up above the water line with valves on top. The cockpit drains thru the transom. The other holes were ground to a proper taper abd glassed over from both sides. There is no way to find their prior location.
Some were intake and some were discharge. Now there are four to intakes one for the engine and one for the head. There are two discharge drains for the galley sink and the wash basin in the head. These two are glassed in pipes carried up above the water line with valves on top. The cockpit drains thru the transom. The other holes were ground to a proper taper abd glassed over from both sides. There is no way to find their prior location.
When I got Bietzpadlin there were six holes in the bottom
Some were intake and some were discharge. Now there are four to intakes one for the engine and one for the head. There are two discharge drains for the galley sink and the wash basin in the head. These two are glassed in pipes carried up above the water line with valves on top. The cockpit drains thru the transom. The other holes were ground to a proper taper abd glassed over from both sides. There is no way to find their prior location.
Some were intake and some were discharge. Now there are four to intakes one for the engine and one for the head. There are two discharge drains for the galley sink and the wash basin in the head. These two are glassed in pipes carried up above the water line with valves on top. The cockpit drains thru the transom. The other holes were ground to a proper taper abd glassed over from both sides. There is no way to find their prior location.
If I read your question correctly...
you would like to remove the thru-hulls and replace them with a removable "plug" that a future owner could then remove and use the thru-hulls again? I know of no such product. As others have noted, it is a relatively easy task to remove the thru-hulls, taper the holes, and fill them in with wetted fiberglass glass circles. Once done properly and painted over, it is a very strong and permanent repair. On the other hand, I have used bronze NPS caps from West Marine to cap off NPS thru-hulls that I was no longer using. (Do not use PVC caps) I did that on an older C&C when I removed the marine head and replaced it with a porta-potty. I sealed these caps with telfon tape and they never leaked in the 10 yrs I had that boat. Should a new owner want to install a marine head with holding tank, it would be a simple matter to remove the caps and install inline ball valves on them, if he so chose.
you would like to remove the thru-hulls and replace them with a removable "plug" that a future owner could then remove and use the thru-hulls again? I know of no such product. As others have noted, it is a relatively easy task to remove the thru-hulls, taper the holes, and fill them in with wetted fiberglass glass circles. Once done properly and painted over, it is a very strong and permanent repair. On the other hand, I have used bronze NPS caps from West Marine to cap off NPS thru-hulls that I was no longer using. (Do not use PVC caps) I did that on an older C&C when I removed the marine head and replaced it with a porta-potty. I sealed these caps with telfon tape and they never leaked in the 10 yrs I had that boat. Should a new owner want to install a marine head with holding tank, it would be a simple matter to remove the caps and install inline ball valves on them, if he so chose.
If I read your question correctly...
you would like to remove the thru-hulls and replace them with a removable "plug" that a future owner could then remove and use the thru-hulls again? I know of no such product. As others have noted, it is a relatively easy task to remove the thru-hulls, taper the holes, and fill them in with wetted fiberglass glass circles. Once done properly and painted over, it is a very strong and permanent repair. On the other hand, I have used bronze NPS caps from West Marine to cap off NPS thru-hulls that I was no longer using. (Do not use PVC caps) I did that on an older C&C when I removed the marine head and replaced it with a porta-potty. I sealed these caps with telfon tape and they never leaked in the 10 yrs I had that boat. Should a new owner want to install a marine head with holding tank, it would be a simple matter to remove the caps and install inline ball valves on them, if he so chose.
you would like to remove the thru-hulls and replace them with a removable "plug" that a future owner could then remove and use the thru-hulls again? I know of no such product. As others have noted, it is a relatively easy task to remove the thru-hulls, taper the holes, and fill them in with wetted fiberglass glass circles. Once done properly and painted over, it is a very strong and permanent repair. On the other hand, I have used bronze NPS caps from West Marine to cap off NPS thru-hulls that I was no longer using. (Do not use PVC caps) I did that on an older C&C when I removed the marine head and replaced it with a porta-potty. I sealed these caps with telfon tape and they never leaked in the 10 yrs I had that boat. Should a new owner want to install a marine head with holding tank, it would be a simple matter to remove the caps and install inline ball valves on them, if he so chose.
Warren...??
Warren can you give us the correct link to the NPS bronze caps? Your link is for NPT. As I mentioned below NPS caps are very, very rare and most all available caps are NPT. This is a mismatch for NPS and leaves minimal thread engagement, which on a boat, is dangerous..
Warren can you give us the correct link to the NPS bronze caps? Your link is for NPT. As I mentioned below NPS caps are very, very rare and most all available caps are NPT. This is a mismatch for NPS and leaves minimal thread engagement, which on a boat, is dangerous..
Warren...??
Warren can you give us the correct link to the NPS bronze caps? Your link is for NPT. As I mentioned below NPS caps are very, very rare and most all available caps are NPT. This is a mismatch for NPS and leaves minimal thread engagement, which on a boat, is dangerous..
Warren can you give us the correct link to the NPS bronze caps? Your link is for NPT. As I mentioned below NPS caps are very, very rare and most all available caps are NPT. This is a mismatch for NPS and leaves minimal thread engagement, which on a boat, is dangerous..
I searched
High and low for what you describe for removing a through hull on a C22. There is no such product. You should either glass it in or, as I did, replace the old fixture with a new one and keep the handle in the "off" position. In retrospect I should have just glassed the thing but took the easy way out.
High and low for what you describe for removing a through hull on a C22. There is no such product. You should either glass it in or, as I did, replace the old fixture with a new one and keep the handle in the "off" position. In retrospect I should have just glassed the thing but took the easy way out.
I searched
High and low for what you describe for removing a through hull on a C22. There is no such product. You should either glass it in or, as I did, replace the old fixture with a new one and keep the handle in the "off" position. In retrospect I should have just glassed the thing but took the easy way out.
High and low for what you describe for removing a through hull on a C22. There is no such product. You should either glass it in or, as I did, replace the old fixture with a new one and keep the handle in the "off" position. In retrospect I should have just glassed the thing but took the easy way out.
thru hulls
Thanks guys, as I suspected, there ain't no such animal. I mistakenly said caps when I should have said plugs. The thru hulls have ball valves in off position with plugs screwed in the outlets. My concern is that they can no longer be operated and last year the head sink drain ball valve handle broke off in my hand and started to leak slowly.(PO said he never closed them in 7 years that he had the boat) The rest of the valves work fine, but are about 10 yrs old. My diver and his manager replaced the thru hull and broken ball valve while the boat was in the water. The ball valves have a flange w/nps threads that seat directly on the wood washer, but don't have bolt holes. I can probably have the undesired thru hulls glassed in for the same price as new hardware.
Thanks guys, as I suspected, there ain't no such animal. I mistakenly said caps when I should have said plugs. The thru hulls have ball valves in off position with plugs screwed in the outlets. My concern is that they can no longer be operated and last year the head sink drain ball valve handle broke off in my hand and started to leak slowly.(PO said he never closed them in 7 years that he had the boat) The rest of the valves work fine, but are about 10 yrs old. My diver and his manager replaced the thru hull and broken ball valve while the boat was in the water. The ball valves have a flange w/nps threads that seat directly on the wood washer, but don't have bolt holes. I can probably have the undesired thru hulls glassed in for the same price as new hardware.
thru hulls
Thanks guys, as I suspected, there ain't no such animal. I mistakenly said caps when I should have said plugs. The thru hulls have ball valves in off position with plugs screwed in the outlets. My concern is that they can no longer be operated and last year the head sink drain ball valve handle broke off in my hand and started to leak slowly.(PO said he never closed them in 7 years that he had the boat) The rest of the valves work fine, but are about 10 yrs old. My diver and his manager replaced the thru hull and broken ball valve while the boat was in the water. The ball valves have a flange w/nps threads that seat directly on the wood washer, but don't have bolt holes. I can probably have the undesired thru hulls glassed in for the same price as new hardware.
Thanks guys, as I suspected, there ain't no such animal. I mistakenly said caps when I should have said plugs. The thru hulls have ball valves in off position with plugs screwed in the outlets. My concern is that they can no longer be operated and last year the head sink drain ball valve handle broke off in my hand and started to leak slowly.(PO said he never closed them in 7 years that he had the boat) The rest of the valves work fine, but are about 10 yrs old. My diver and his manager replaced the thru hull and broken ball valve while the boat was in the water. The ball valves have a flange w/nps threads that seat directly on the wood washer, but don't have bolt holes. I can probably have the undesired thru hulls glassed in for the same price as new hardware.
Maine Sail re bronze caps
I capped those old through hulls many years ago. It may be that I bought them from Hamilton Marine, as that company has just about everything. I also use PYacht a lot and they are great for getting whatever you may need. Wherever they came from, they outlasted my ownership of that boat (10+years) with nary a leak ever. Hope this helps...
I capped those old through hulls many years ago. It may be that I bought them from Hamilton Marine, as that company has just about everything. I also use PYacht a lot and they are great for getting whatever you may need. Wherever they came from, they outlasted my ownership of that boat (10+years) with nary a leak ever. Hope this helps...
Maine Sail re bronze caps
I capped those old through hulls many years ago. It may be that I bought them from Hamilton Marine, as that company has just about everything. I also use PYacht a lot and they are great for getting whatever you may need. Wherever they came from, they outlasted my ownership of that boat (10+years) with nary a leak ever. Hope this helps...
I capped those old through hulls many years ago. It may be that I bought them from Hamilton Marine, as that company has just about everything. I also use PYacht a lot and they are great for getting whatever you may need. Wherever they came from, they outlasted my ownership of that boat (10+years) with nary a leak ever. Hope this helps...
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