That video perfectly illustrates what I was saying about the difference between our OEM ball valves and the new flanged seacocks. Just use something more than Teflon tape along to seal the threads.
Thru-hull discussion - Upgrades and issues
- Thread starter jonelli
- Start date
@Ward H - I'm a little confused as to what you ended up doing. In the other thread it sounded like you were going to put OEM93 valves on your original thru hulls. Did you end up doing that?
I think I might consider doing that, I'm still on the fence with all of it.
I don't blame you, I was confused myself. I'll try to explain better.
In 2019 I went back and forth on what I was going to use but ended up with the new 93 Series in line ball valve with the CF250 thru hulls. Those thru hulls are flush fit and fit the recess in the hull very well. The 93 Series in line ball valve is built differently, improved handle, over the 850 valves that came in my C30.
Those CF250 thru hulls are held in place with a large nut. Then the ball valves screwed onto the thru hulls. While they were a huge improvement over the 850 valves, after using them for a year they just didn't feel secure to me.
Last year I added water cooled marine air conditioning. I installed a new Series 93 OEM flanged valve using the buttress thread thru hull with mushroom head. This was in a new hole I drilled into the hull.
That valve feels much stronger, very secure. So much so I'm replacing all the valves I installed in 2019 with 93 Series OEM flanged valves with buttress thread mushroom head thru hulls. I'll mount them in the molded in recess like @Hayden did and use 3 1/4" round, 1/4" backing plates mounted in thickened epoxy.
I hope that better explains what I did, will do and why. PM your phone number if you want to discuss in further detail.
Forespar sent me 11 documents, including their 30 plus page Marelon Catalog. PM your email and I'll forward them to you.
In 2019 I went back and forth on what I was going to use but ended up with the new 93 Series in line ball valve with the CF250 thru hulls. Those thru hulls are flush fit and fit the recess in the hull very well. The 93 Series in line ball valve is built differently, improved handle, over the 850 valves that came in my C30.
Those CF250 thru hulls are held in place with a large nut. Then the ball valves screwed onto the thru hulls. While they were a huge improvement over the 850 valves, after using them for a year they just didn't feel secure to me.
Last year I added water cooled marine air conditioning. I installed a new Series 93 OEM flanged valve using the buttress thread thru hull with mushroom head. This was in a new hole I drilled into the hull.
That valve feels much stronger, very secure. So much so I'm replacing all the valves I installed in 2019 with 93 Series OEM flanged valves with buttress thread mushroom head thru hulls. I'll mount them in the molded in recess like @Hayden did and use 3 1/4" round, 1/4" backing plates mounted in thickened epoxy.
I hope that better explains what I did, will do and why. PM your phone number if you want to discuss in further detail.
Forespar sent me 11 documents, including their 30 plus page Marelon Catalog. PM your email and I'll forward them to you.
And the other option is to use the CF250 recessed thru-hull but have Forespar mount it with a special order NPTS thread instead of the buttress thread.
I considered this but the wall thickness of the buttress thread thru hull is thicker than the CF250 and the buttress threads are supposedly stronger, which I believe will produce a stronger overall install.
Still, I agree, if you want to keep flush head thru hulls, it is an option.
Still, I agree, if you want to keep flush head thru hulls, it is an option.