I finally replaced the throttle cable. My problem is that the new cable passes through its jacket just fine, but with the engine off, if I move the throttle lever to wide open, and let it go, it wants to return to idle rpm, like a car gas pedal on a return spring. Will this somehow correct itself when the engine is turned on? I tried tightening the throttle lever at the block, but it is where it should be. I don't recall this being an issue with the old cable. It is just the opposite of what one would expect. If the cable was binding in the jacket, it would stick. Now it operates so freely, it wants to return on its own. The shift lever works perfectly.
Throttle Cable
- Thread starter wufibugs
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http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Connection_Equipment-MORSE_CABLE_BRAKE_FOR_CONTROL_CABLES.html
You should be able to get this from Teleflex/Morse.
You should be able to get this from Teleflex/Morse.
Steve, dammit. You are, as usual, embarrasingly right on the money. I was wondering what that damn thing was that was left over. Red faced, but $18 richer. Where exactly does it go? The website says at the control end of the cable, but I'm not sure how it fits.
Control end of the cable or near the head of the cable is right. I moved mine from down at the side of the engine to right where the cable comes out of the ceiling of the aft cabin at the bottom of the pedestal. I couldn't find a way to put it at the top of the pedestal- no room. Works much better than at he side of the engine. Guess it has to do with the amount of slack cable you are pushing before the cable brake.
Oh, yes. Thanks, Rich. I now remember where it was. I removed it thinking that crimping the cable like that was one of the reasons it failed. Guess thats the only way to resolve the problem, though it seems a very low tech solution guaranteed to shorten cable life. Rich, wouldn't putting it in the ceiling where it exits the pedestal mean that if you need to adjust it, you will have to remove the cover over the rudder cables?
I'm also not too happy with having the screw turn directly agains the cable jacket. Seems that one should be able to find something more like a muffler clamp in which two flat surfaces pressed the cable.
Since it's just a matter of causing the inner able to chafe against the jacket, I don't suppose it matters where along the cable you squeeze. Not a very elegant solution.
Yes, putting it in the cabin ceiling means harder to get to for adjustment, but it sure works better. The throttle feels smoother and seems to work better in proportion to how much you move it- before it seemed to change the idle speed less at the beginning and more at the end for a given amount of movement.
It may be a low tech solution, however it has worked on boats for years. My cables are original at 26 years old so its not like it shortens the life too much...
I am getting ready to replace the throttle and gear cables this off season, not because they are not working, just because I notice some chaffing on the jackets and have nothing better to do....
How was it getting the cables through and attached? Are there any hints to this or is it pretty straight forward?
Thanks
I am getting ready to replace the throttle and gear cables this off season, not because they are not working, just because I notice some chaffing on the jackets and have nothing better to do....
How was it getting the cables through and attached? Are there any hints to this or is it pretty straight forward?
Thanks
From your post, NY, seems like your boat is about the same age as mine, 86. Hunters of that vintage used the long defunct Merriman pedestal. For me, and Rich I believe, the job was made immeasurably easier by exposing the opening in the bottom of the pedestal and pushing the cables up rather than down from the top. This is accessed by removing the fiberglass cover to the rudder cables in the ceiling of the aft bunk. Replacing the throttle cable required lowering the autopilot which covered the screw that secures the throttle cable to the inside of the pedestal housing [earlier, Merriman secured the both outer cables by means of aluminum "legs" bolted to the lever housing; I don't know why, but this leg was eliminated for the throttle but not the shift lever]. Everything else was quite straightforward. I added 4 fibre plumbing washers on either side of the levers to keep moisture out of the pedestal. I also glued a length of plastic conduit to the inside wall the pedestal to run the compass, autopilot, and a new 12v wire [for various handlhelds at the helm] through to keep them off of the steering cables. You'll probably need 3 small brass cotter pins to replace the originals.
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