I am seriously consider several 1980 version Hunter 27's. Any words of wisdom other than "get a good surveyor" which of course I will do. THANKS !
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27
I have a 1978 and love it although the ports leak which I hope will be fixed this season. It's a great sailing / weekend boat. I sail it single handed often and do fine. I just did an Island Girl gelcoat job this spring and it looks good. My only dislike is the small 8hp Yanmar. My hull has been bullet proof relative to blisters and other problems. It's a classic
I have a 1978 and love it although the ports leak which I hope will be fixed this season. It's a great sailing / weekend boat. I sail it single handed often and do fine. I just did an Island Girl gelcoat job this spring and it looks good. My only dislike is the small 8hp Yanmar. My hull has been bullet proof relative to blisters and other problems. It's a classic
1976
Just arrived back from a great day of sailing,great boat 1976 H27. We love it,sails great. No question,buy it! We do agree the 8hp a bit underpowered, but as soon as we get out of the harbor its off anyway!!
Just arrived back from a great day of sailing,great boat 1976 H27. We love it,sails great. No question,buy it! We do agree the 8hp a bit underpowered, but as soon as we get out of the harbor its off anyway!!
Hunter 27 recommendations
Insist upon the deep keel if you have ANY access to water over 5 ft deep. The performance suffers dramatically with the 3'3" version. There were more post-79 boats made with deep keel than the 75-79 ones. (This is due to the power of one Hunter dealer in Havre deGrace during the mid-'70s... controlling depth into that end at that time was 4 ft! The Alachua move in 79-80 changed the 27's focus.) Also, make every attempt to avoid mid-boom sheeting. On my 25 (Mk 1) I am installing a whole new bridge deck including custom-fab'd aluminium traveller support to mount the mainsheet in the cockpit. This is the single most important modification I can recommend for the Hunter 27-- assuming you already have the deep keel. If you have any mind at all about sailing performance, even if you only care to sail pretty well with the least detriment to speed and handling, the combination of shoal-draught keel and mid-boom sheeting (which can be further negatively compounded by a recut mainsail to raise the boom above a bimini top) should be avoided AT ALL COSTS. J Cherubini II
Insist upon the deep keel if you have ANY access to water over 5 ft deep. The performance suffers dramatically with the 3'3" version. There were more post-79 boats made with deep keel than the 75-79 ones. (This is due to the power of one Hunter dealer in Havre deGrace during the mid-'70s... controlling depth into that end at that time was 4 ft! The Alachua move in 79-80 changed the 27's focus.) Also, make every attempt to avoid mid-boom sheeting. On my 25 (Mk 1) I am installing a whole new bridge deck including custom-fab'd aluminium traveller support to mount the mainsheet in the cockpit. This is the single most important modification I can recommend for the Hunter 27-- assuming you already have the deep keel. If you have any mind at all about sailing performance, even if you only care to sail pretty well with the least detriment to speed and handling, the combination of shoal-draught keel and mid-boom sheeting (which can be further negatively compounded by a recut mainsail to raise the boom above a bimini top) should be avoided AT ALL COSTS. J Cherubini II
Re: 82 H27
I agree that the 8hp Yanmar is not enough power. Also, on my boat it is tough to track down all of the leaks above the waterline - it is always wet inside after rain. Other than that, it is a great boat for the money, and sails easily. I would highly recommend this boat for weekend cruising.
I agree that the 8hp Yanmar is not enough power. Also, on my boat it is tough to track down all of the leaks above the waterline - it is always wet inside after rain. Other than that, it is a great boat for the money, and sails easily. I would highly recommend this boat for weekend cruising.
Another '82 h27...
I had an '82 for 7 years before trading up to a 29.5. Loved that old boat. Sailed really well. Sailed on Lake Erie (LOTS of chop)...cuts through the waves very well. I had routinely gotten the boat past it's hull speed. Singlehands very easily. The shallow bilge was never dry, but never experienced any problems with the boat in the water. Either Sail Mag or Cruising world did an article a few years ago, and listed the '78-'84 h27 as one of it's best buys for boats under $15,000.00. I still see a lot of them on the water, so, consider that a very good indication that it's solid. Good luck!
I had an '82 for 7 years before trading up to a 29.5. Loved that old boat. Sailed really well. Sailed on Lake Erie (LOTS of chop)...cuts through the waves very well. I had routinely gotten the boat past it's hull speed. Singlehands very easily. The shallow bilge was never dry, but never experienced any problems with the boat in the water. Either Sail Mag or Cruising world did an article a few years ago, and listed the '78-'84 h27 as one of it's best buys for boats under $15,000.00. I still see a lot of them on the water, so, consider that a very good indication that it's solid. Good luck!
Some things to check carefully
Dennis If you're in the Melbourne area, contact me at thevanderveers@bellsouth.net and we'll take you sailing on our 82 Cherubini 27. We bought our boat with another couple about two years ago and for my money, it is still the most 27 for the buck in terms of interior room, fun and functionality. For our typical sailing in the protected Indian River Lagoon waters, the engine is a non-factor. But you definitely won't get her up on plane with that 1GM!
I thought you might benefit from our recent projects, in terms of things to check carefully, or have the surveyor specifically check: -- we had to replace the head hoses completely with the now-legendary Peggie-Hall-endorsed SeaLand Odorsafe stuff. The old hoses were shot and stinky. The new head system is stink-free. -- we had to replace the mainsail after about a year. It was just worn out and we didn't know quite how badly until it ripped in half! -- several portlights and hatches leaked and had to be replaced and rebedded; check them with a hose or run down to the boat in question after a rain to check for leaks. -- and finally, perhaps most importantly, check the fuel tank. It's a long story, but the original aluminum tank in ours was, unbeknownst to us, leaking slowly from several pin holes on the bottom of the tank. The tank (in the 82 anyway) sits on top of a piece of marine plywood mounted under the cockpit floor, forward of the pedestal. Inspecting this wood piece is at best a challenge, but make sure the surveyor gets an eyeball on it. If the wood piece is diesel soaked or smells of diesel, make sure you check for leaks in the fuel tank. You can email me for more details. Good luck, Ron
Dennis If you're in the Melbourne area, contact me at thevanderveers@bellsouth.net and we'll take you sailing on our 82 Cherubini 27. We bought our boat with another couple about two years ago and for my money, it is still the most 27 for the buck in terms of interior room, fun and functionality. For our typical sailing in the protected Indian River Lagoon waters, the engine is a non-factor. But you definitely won't get her up on plane with that 1GM!
I thought you might benefit from our recent projects, in terms of things to check carefully, or have the surveyor specifically check: -- we had to replace the head hoses completely with the now-legendary Peggie-Hall-endorsed SeaLand Odorsafe stuff. The old hoses were shot and stinky. The new head system is stink-free. -- we had to replace the mainsail after about a year. It was just worn out and we didn't know quite how badly until it ripped in half! -- several portlights and hatches leaked and had to be replaced and rebedded; check them with a hose or run down to the boat in question after a rain to check for leaks. -- and finally, perhaps most importantly, check the fuel tank. It's a long story, but the original aluminum tank in ours was, unbeknownst to us, leaking slowly from several pin holes on the bottom of the tank. The tank (in the 82 anyway) sits on top of a piece of marine plywood mounted under the cockpit floor, forward of the pedestal. Inspecting this wood piece is at best a challenge, but make sure the surveyor gets an eyeball on it. If the wood piece is diesel soaked or smells of diesel, make sure you check for leaks in the fuel tank. You can email me for more details. Good luck, RonH27 Info
I had a H27 - 1979 for about 15 years. The 1980 version was the first with factory wheel steering and a slightly different interior layout. The one drawback was Hunter's one year experience with the Renaut engine. They had a lot of problems with this engine and switched back to yanmar in 1981. I converted my tiller to wheel steering and had to use mib-boom sheeting. You obviously don't have as good a control of the main, but the wheel sterering is worth it. I single handed this boat in winds up to 35 knots with no problem. Just reef the main early. I also agree with prior comments about the deep keel. Don't consider the shallow draft, they can't point at all. Never had any major problems. Good luck.
I had a H27 - 1979 for about 15 years. The 1980 version was the first with factory wheel steering and a slightly different interior layout. The one drawback was Hunter's one year experience with the Renaut engine. They had a lot of problems with this engine and switched back to yanmar in 1981. I converted my tiller to wheel steering and had to use mib-boom sheeting. You obviously don't have as good a control of the main, but the wheel sterering is worth it. I single handed this boat in winds up to 35 knots with no problem. Just reef the main early. I also agree with prior comments about the deep keel. Don't consider the shallow draft, they can't point at all. Never had any major problems. Good luck.
Just returned from 10 days aboard
our '77 h27. The Admiral and I logged over 200 miles on Lake Erie. This is our fourth summer, and we average over 20 nights aboard every year. This is a very seaworthy design that handles easily, and is a great cruising boat. As JC II said, our shoal keel means we make so much leeway when close hauled that racing or working to weather without the engine is not in our program. But 3 feet, 3 inches gets us into places others others must avoid with the low waters of Lake Erie. And once we are 60 degrees off the wind, we really move. Cruised for the first two 40 mile legs with a friend on a Juneau 32, and he couldn't keep up! The Yanmar 8 hp won't get you up to hull speed, or drive you into 3 footers above 3-4 knots. But it's reliable, steady, and drove us at 4.5 knots against a light headwind for 40 miles day before yesterday (until the forecasted westerlies kicked in to take us the last 8 miles.) Add 6 feet of headroom, Real comfort for two, with another three possible (I cruised a week with my Dad and two large borthers, but that required family!) and it's a great value. Possible problems are similar to all classic plastic from the 70's. A survey is critical. The construction on the ones I've seen is very solid. Oh yeah - I think they look great! David Lady Lillie '77 h27
our '77 h27. The Admiral and I logged over 200 miles on Lake Erie. This is our fourth summer, and we average over 20 nights aboard every year. This is a very seaworthy design that handles easily, and is a great cruising boat. As JC II said, our shoal keel means we make so much leeway when close hauled that racing or working to weather without the engine is not in our program. But 3 feet, 3 inches gets us into places others others must avoid with the low waters of Lake Erie. And once we are 60 degrees off the wind, we really move. Cruised for the first two 40 mile legs with a friend on a Juneau 32, and he couldn't keep up! The Yanmar 8 hp won't get you up to hull speed, or drive you into 3 footers above 3-4 knots. But it's reliable, steady, and drove us at 4.5 knots against a light headwind for 40 miles day before yesterday (until the forecasted westerlies kicked in to take us the last 8 miles.) Add 6 feet of headroom, Real comfort for two, with another three possible (I cruised a week with my Dad and two large borthers, but that required family!) and it's a great value. Possible problems are similar to all classic plastic from the 70's. A survey is critical. The construction on the ones I've seen is very solid. Oh yeah - I think they look great! David Lady Lillie '77 h27
good boat
I've had my '80 H27 for about 8 years now. Overall, it is a very good boat, and quite the bargain. While folks tend to roll their eyes regarding the Renault 8HP, you will find it is is a rugged little one lung kicker, very easy to work on, and will get you where you want to go. The benefits of an engine that you can pull start (after running too many lights that night at anchor) cannot be underestimated. Get a solar panel to keep the deep draw charged and you will be glad you bought it. The bilge is too shallow, and make sure you replace those cheesy gate valves on the thru-hulls with 1/4 turns or sea-cocks. Good Luck.
I've had my '80 H27 for about 8 years now. Overall, it is a very good boat, and quite the bargain. While folks tend to roll their eyes regarding the Renault 8HP, you will find it is is a rugged little one lung kicker, very easy to work on, and will get you where you want to go. The benefits of an engine that you can pull start (after running too many lights that night at anchor) cannot be underestimated. Get a solar panel to keep the deep draw charged and you will be glad you bought it. The bilge is too shallow, and make sure you replace those cheesy gate valves on the thru-hulls with 1/4 turns or sea-cocks. Good Luck.
We love ours...
...but this is now a 24-year-old boat. You *will* work on it. You *will not* get the neat stuff that is on a 10-year-old boat from H, C or B. You will get a decent-sailing boat with real wood inside and a classic look. Real, unrehearsed comment from a 10 year old boy on the harbor tender when it pulled up to Boatwright II: "What a neat boat". You can't buy compliments like that, my friend!
...but this is now a 24-year-old boat. You *will* work on it. You *will not* get the neat stuff that is on a 10-year-old boat from H, C or B. You will get a decent-sailing boat with real wood inside and a classic look. Real, unrehearsed comment from a 10 year old boy on the harbor tender when it pulled up to Boatwright II: "What a neat boat". You can't buy compliments like that, my friend!
Reliable & sturdy
I bought my 1980 H27 new. Still have it. It has been a great boat, with an absolute minimum of problems. Some issues: 1. Reanault engine..some people complain about it, but mine has never failed me in 23 years! Parts can be hard to find, but not impossible. Watch out if you are in salt water, as like any raw water cooled engine, it pays a price in corrosion,etc 2. Leaks.. the toe rails need periodic snugging as they will otherwise leak in heavy weather. 3. Fin vs shoal draft keel. The fin keeel is far superior to the shoal in terms of beating to weather 4. Pointing angle..because the snatch blocks for the jib sheets are attached to the toe rail (the mast stays are also) she will not point a true 45 degrees with the standard 110 jib. I have a 150 that is much better 5. I had to have the rudder post on mine beefed up after about 5 years, as it tended to be sloppy and leak. Also double check the rudder itself, as mine cracked and had to be repaired. All in all a great weekend cruiser, with adequate (not super) upwind performance, but good off the wind. Hope you enjoy! Burt
I bought my 1980 H27 new. Still have it. It has been a great boat, with an absolute minimum of problems. Some issues: 1. Reanault engine..some people complain about it, but mine has never failed me in 23 years! Parts can be hard to find, but not impossible. Watch out if you are in salt water, as like any raw water cooled engine, it pays a price in corrosion,etc 2. Leaks.. the toe rails need periodic snugging as they will otherwise leak in heavy weather. 3. Fin vs shoal draft keel. The fin keeel is far superior to the shoal in terms of beating to weather 4. Pointing angle..because the snatch blocks for the jib sheets are attached to the toe rail (the mast stays are also) she will not point a true 45 degrees with the standard 110 jib. I have a 150 that is much better 5. I had to have the rudder post on mine beefed up after about 5 years, as it tended to be sloppy and leak. Also double check the rudder itself, as mine cracked and had to be repaired. All in all a great weekend cruiser, with adequate (not super) upwind performance, but good off the wind. Hope you enjoy! Burt
Leaks
Had a similar problem with leaks after rain. I poked around the bases of the stanchions and found that it was basically alot of dirt crammed into big gaping holes. So I just filled them with caulk and haven't had a problem since. (Also, caulked the toe rails for good measure while I was at it).
Had a similar problem with leaks after rain. I poked around the bases of the stanchions and found that it was basically alot of dirt crammed into big gaping holes. So I just filled them with caulk and haven't had a problem since. (Also, caulked the toe rails for good measure while I was at it).
Rudder Leaks
I bought my H27 about 5 years ago, and the surveyor pointed out some delamination on one side of the rudder. He said it will probably get worse and may need to be replaced soon. However, it's been no problem.
I bought my H27 about 5 years ago, and the surveyor pointed out some delamination on one side of the rudder. He said it will probably get worse and may need to be replaced soon. However, it's been no problem.
Leaking Rudder is common
This is a common problem for foam cored rudders. There are many posts in the archives about this, but I have time on my hands so I will impart what I know here. First on an ounce of prevention: When the boat is out of the water, remove old bottom paint and re-apply with a white bottom paint. A dark bottom paint absorbs heat (even in the water) and this is the #1 cause of delamination of the fiberglass from the foam core - the rudder getting too hot. The rudder OEM also suggests covering the rudder in white plastic when the boat is on the hard. Next, moisture saturation: Did the surveyor say the rudder was saturated and/or had a high moisture reading? If so, then the repair is to remove the rudder, grind off all the gel coat, and bake under heat lamps (not too hot!) until the rudder is completely dry. Then re-gel coat. There are many variation on this, but if you want a completely dry rudder this is how most pros would do it. Finally delamination: When the fiberglass detaches from the rudder's foam core, you can re-attach it using a "penetrating" epoxy. This has to be done with the rudder off the boat. Trace the perimeter of the delam area and drill holes evenly spaced 1 & 1/2 - 2" apart 2" in from the edge of the delam area. Depending on the size of the delam, drill holes in concentric cirles towards the center of the delam area spacing each circle of holes around 2"-3" apart more or less. Next pour epoxy in the holes starting with the outer holes and moving in. When the expoxy rises out of the holes with hand pressure applied, that is enough epoxy. Fashion a press out of a couple of sheets of plywood, and using woodworkers clamps apply pressure to the delam area while the epoxy sets. Don't forget to put something between the plywood and the rudder so you don't wind up epoxying the plywood to the rudder! I used a heavy plastic sheet as a buffer. Sand off excess epoxy and re-gelcoat as needed. On the repair itself my thinking is this: A new rudder is mucho denaro. Repairing the rudder can take a lot of man hours, but is sweat equity. Ignoring delamination or water penetration will hasten the demise of the rudder. Properly maintained and repaired on a timely basis as needed, the rudder should last the life of the boat more or less. Good luck. Mike
This is a common problem for foam cored rudders. There are many posts in the archives about this, but I have time on my hands so I will impart what I know here. First on an ounce of prevention: When the boat is out of the water, remove old bottom paint and re-apply with a white bottom paint. A dark bottom paint absorbs heat (even in the water) and this is the #1 cause of delamination of the fiberglass from the foam core - the rudder getting too hot. The rudder OEM also suggests covering the rudder in white plastic when the boat is on the hard. Next, moisture saturation: Did the surveyor say the rudder was saturated and/or had a high moisture reading? If so, then the repair is to remove the rudder, grind off all the gel coat, and bake under heat lamps (not too hot!) until the rudder is completely dry. Then re-gel coat. There are many variation on this, but if you want a completely dry rudder this is how most pros would do it. Finally delamination: When the fiberglass detaches from the rudder's foam core, you can re-attach it using a "penetrating" epoxy. This has to be done with the rudder off the boat. Trace the perimeter of the delam area and drill holes evenly spaced 1 & 1/2 - 2" apart 2" in from the edge of the delam area. Depending on the size of the delam, drill holes in concentric cirles towards the center of the delam area spacing each circle of holes around 2"-3" apart more or less. Next pour epoxy in the holes starting with the outer holes and moving in. When the expoxy rises out of the holes with hand pressure applied, that is enough epoxy. Fashion a press out of a couple of sheets of plywood, and using woodworkers clamps apply pressure to the delam area while the epoxy sets. Don't forget to put something between the plywood and the rudder so you don't wind up epoxying the plywood to the rudder! I used a heavy plastic sheet as a buffer. Sand off excess epoxy and re-gelcoat as needed. On the repair itself my thinking is this: A new rudder is mucho denaro. Repairing the rudder can take a lot of man hours, but is sweat equity. Ignoring delamination or water penetration will hasten the demise of the rudder. Properly maintained and repaired on a timely basis as needed, the rudder should last the life of the boat more or less. Good luck. Mike
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