I came here looking to find out how to tell if my head tank is full, but after reading the recent posts it seems like I'm going to be developing a far more intimate relationship with my toilet than I had intended. I have a 1980 30' Hunter Simple question: Is there a quick and easy way to see if my tank is full? I removed the access cap in my V-Berth - quick and easy, but... Are there any gauges or indicators, or does the potty give me any "clues" when it's filling up? I live on this boat 5 days a week with no bathhouse around, so it's the kind of thing I really need to have a grip on. Scary question: What is all this "vented loop" business?? Is this something I need to worry about? I don't have anything like this on my boat. However, I do know that if I leave the switch in the "wet bowl" position, my bowl will overflow. I didn't know if this was normal or due to a leaky valve, but I did see it mentioned in one of the many "vented loop" threads. If it is something I need to worry about, is there a link to an article that tells me everything I need to know to take care of this?
This started out as a simple question...
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For what it's worth...
I recently added am 18 gal tank to our Crown 34. The tank is in the v-berth so thes is lots of access all around it. I can just look at the side and see how full it is as the content of the tank are, shall we say not exactly clear. Not knowing where your tank is located, I don't know how much access you have to view the sides of the tank but my method sure works for me. The vented loops on both the intake between the pump and the bowl and the discharge are necessary to prevent exactly what is happening in your situation; siphoning from the thru-hull or tank back into the head. The ONLY time they are not necessary is if the head is ALWAYS above the waterline. Peggy will likely jump in and elaborate where I have left anything out. Cheers David
I recently added am 18 gal tank to our Crown 34. The tank is in the v-berth so thes is lots of access all around it. I can just look at the side and see how full it is as the content of the tank are, shall we say not exactly clear. Not knowing where your tank is located, I don't know how much access you have to view the sides of the tank but my method sure works for me. The vented loops on both the intake between the pump and the bowl and the discharge are necessary to prevent exactly what is happening in your situation; siphoning from the thru-hull or tank back into the head. The ONLY time they are not necessary is if the head is ALWAYS above the waterline. Peggy will likely jump in and elaborate where I have left anything out. Cheers David
They ALL start out as simple questions...
"Is there a quick and easy way to see if my tank is full?" Yes...install a gauge. In your circumstances I would go with one that lets you know how much is in the tank, not just when it's full. I need more information about your tank before recommending one. "...does the potty give me any "clues" when it's filling up?" No. "What is all this "vented loop" business??" Read this whole thread: http://archive.sailboatowners.com/archive/archivepview.tpl?sku=2005195200425.36&forumabr=thm&fno=11&model=none&forum=none&andor=wa&keyword=Vented%20loop&pr=p&ssite=HOW&srt=none&start=9&max=100&db=2005&cart=1124838177737190 "...I leave the switch in the "wet bowl" position, my bowl will overflow." Yep...because there's nothing to prevent water outside the boat from seeking its own level INside the boat via the toilet intake. A vented loop serves two functions: it puts a loop in the line above the waterline...and it breaks the siphon started by priming the pump when the head is flushed. You need one in your head intake. If the toilet is at or below the waterline--which it is on most sailboats--a vented loop is needed in the head intake to prevent water from rising in the bowl if the wet/dry valve is left in the wet position. The loop must NOT go in the line between the thru-hull and the pump because it will interfere with the pump's ability to prime...it must go between the pump and the bowl--to replace the short piece of hose that the mfr used to connect 'em-- and should also be at least 8-12" above the waterline at any angle of heel. However, since a vented loop won't prevent water from flooding the bowl while underway on a tack that can force water up an open thru-hull, keep the intake seacock closed while underway except when the head is actually in use...or, if the seacock is a location that makes that impractical, install a shutoff valve in the head intake line ahead of the pump that is accessible and can be kept closed at all times except when the head is in use. As for a link that tells you EVERYthing you need to know to use and maintain your sanitation system properly...it doesn't exist. However, the link below comes closer than anything else ever published. I suggest you check it out.
"Is there a quick and easy way to see if my tank is full?" Yes...install a gauge. In your circumstances I would go with one that lets you know how much is in the tank, not just when it's full. I need more information about your tank before recommending one. "...does the potty give me any "clues" when it's filling up?" No. "What is all this "vented loop" business??" Read this whole thread: http://archive.sailboatowners.com/archive/archivepview.tpl?sku=2005195200425.36&forumabr=thm&fno=11&model=none&forum=none&andor=wa&keyword=Vented%20loop&pr=p&ssite=HOW&srt=none&start=9&max=100&db=2005&cart=1124838177737190 "...I leave the switch in the "wet bowl" position, my bowl will overflow." Yep...because there's nothing to prevent water outside the boat from seeking its own level INside the boat via the toilet intake. A vented loop serves two functions: it puts a loop in the line above the waterline...and it breaks the siphon started by priming the pump when the head is flushed. You need one in your head intake. If the toilet is at or below the waterline--which it is on most sailboats--a vented loop is needed in the head intake to prevent water from rising in the bowl if the wet/dry valve is left in the wet position. The loop must NOT go in the line between the thru-hull and the pump because it will interfere with the pump's ability to prime...it must go between the pump and the bowl--to replace the short piece of hose that the mfr used to connect 'em-- and should also be at least 8-12" above the waterline at any angle of heel. However, since a vented loop won't prevent water from flooding the bowl while underway on a tack that can force water up an open thru-hull, keep the intake seacock closed while underway except when the head is actually in use...or, if the seacock is a location that makes that impractical, install a shutoff valve in the head intake line ahead of the pump that is accessible and can be kept closed at all times except when the head is in use. As for a link that tells you EVERYthing you need to know to use and maintain your sanitation system properly...it doesn't exist. However, the link below comes closer than anything else ever published. I suggest you check it out.
full tank
i have a tank eye which is foolproof and shows when the tank is getting full. for something like twenty-nine bucks, it's fine with me.
i have a tank eye which is foolproof and shows when the tank is getting full. for something like twenty-nine bucks, it's fine with me.
vented loop
The Jabsco website, and I'm sure the sites of other manufacturers, have installation instructions for their heads that address the how-to's of the vented loops. Another excellent resource is the Ronco holding tanks site. Download their marine catalog. It too has full install instructions. I too am becoming much more involved with my H30 sanitation system that I ever planned
Good luck! http://www.jabsco.com http://www.ronco-plastics.com
The Jabsco website, and I'm sure the sites of other manufacturers, have installation instructions for their heads that address the how-to's of the vented loops. Another excellent resource is the Ronco holding tanks site. Download their marine catalog. It too has full install instructions. I too am becoming much more involved with my H30 sanitation system that I ever planned
Good luck! http://www.jabsco.com http://www.ronco-plastics.comTank Eye
This boat is still new to me, but I seem to recall seeing TWO tank "eyes" on my fresh water tank (on top). Couldn't see a dang thing through them. However, i'm wondering now if one of them didn't get misplaced somewhere along this boat's long journey into my possession. I'll double check it tonight. I'm now thinking about some kind of simple mechanical gauge that just replaces the existing cap?? That would be fine with me, I'm not anxious to start string wire and installing panels - I have enough "projects" on this boat to keep me occupied for a little while.
This boat is still new to me, but I seem to recall seeing TWO tank "eyes" on my fresh water tank (on top). Couldn't see a dang thing through them. However, i'm wondering now if one of them didn't get misplaced somewhere along this boat's long journey into my possession. I'll double check it tonight. I'm now thinking about some kind of simple mechanical gauge that just replaces the existing cap?? That would be fine with me, I'm not anxious to start string wire and installing panels - I have enough "projects" on this boat to keep me occupied for a little while.
Side viewing the tank
I can view the side of the tank, but it is not transparant. Maybe if I could get some light behind it or down into the tank (perhaps through one of those eye thingys)? If the fiberglass is thin enough, it could work. Maybe I can thump it - that sort of works on propane tanks... Ok, many possible ways to deal with this. I'll check them all out over the next couple of days! Thanks to all.
I can view the side of the tank, but it is not transparant. Maybe if I could get some light behind it or down into the tank (perhaps through one of those eye thingys)? If the fiberglass is thin enough, it could work. Maybe I can thump it - that sort of works on propane tanks... Ok, many possible ways to deal with this. I'll check them all out over the next couple of days! Thanks to all.
Those aren't "eyes"....
They're inspection port caps. If you tank is poly, it's translucent...you can see the level in it if you shine a light on it...after you tear the v-verth apart each time you want to check it...and then put the v-berth back together after you've checked it. The collective time and effort to do that every couple of days for a month is more than you'd spend installing a gauge. If you don't want to check it every day or two OR installa gauge...Plan B: You have an 18 gallon tank...the average flush is .6 gallons. Multiply .6 x the number of times you use the head each day (I'm assuming that you spend the day off the boat at work)...then divide 18 by that number to determine how many days it will take you fill the tank. I'd leave at least a 10% margin for error (extra head use) to make sure you don't overflow the tank.
They're inspection port caps. If you tank is poly, it's translucent...you can see the level in it if you shine a light on it...after you tear the v-verth apart each time you want to check it...and then put the v-berth back together after you've checked it. The collective time and effort to do that every couple of days for a month is more than you'd spend installing a gauge. If you don't want to check it every day or two OR installa gauge...Plan B: You have an 18 gallon tank...the average flush is .6 gallons. Multiply .6 x the number of times you use the head each day (I'm assuming that you spend the day off the boat at work)...then divide 18 by that number to determine how many days it will take you fill the tank. I'd leave at least a 10% margin for error (extra head use) to make sure you don't overflow the tank.
Flashlight
Yes my head has become a vital operating system to me. I have become preoccupied with its maintenance and proper function. I didn't know I'd have to become a head expert when I asked for one on our next boat I keep a flashligh near the holding tank (plastic) to shine from the side and check the level of liquid. I suspect I am over flushing to be sure the contents do not sit in the hose and get all the way to the tank. .6 gal per flush just doesn't seem like enough water.
Yes my head has become a vital operating system to me. I have become preoccupied with its maintenance and proper function. I didn't know I'd have to become a head expert when I asked for one on our next boat
I keep a flashligh near the holding tank (plastic) to shine from the side and check the level of liquid. I suspect I am over flushing to be sure the contents do not sit in the hose and get all the way to the tank. .6 gal per flush just doesn't seem like enough water.- Status