Anybody know of how to refinish the sole since every 2.75" there is an imbeded rubber strip for non spip protection?
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Ignore the strip
Just pretend it isn't there, and refinish as planned. Heat and a scraper will take off alot of the finish, then a good quality paint/varnish remover. Rinse, rinse and rinse again. Any finish left at this point can be sanded off. If needed, bleach the bare wood with a good wood bleach, available at Lowe's or West Marine. Start with a weak solution, and use stronger if needed. I've found the product "Ultimate Sole" to do the best job for me as a finish for the sole. It has good non slip qualities, and it's easy to apply with a roller or brush. I've used it on two boats, larger than 28 feet.
Just pretend it isn't there, and refinish as planned. Heat and a scraper will take off alot of the finish, then a good quality paint/varnish remover. Rinse, rinse and rinse again. Any finish left at this point can be sanded off. If needed, bleach the bare wood with a good wood bleach, available at Lowe's or West Marine. Start with a weak solution, and use stronger if needed. I've found the product "Ultimate Sole" to do the best job for me as a finish for the sole. It has good non slip qualities, and it's easy to apply with a roller or brush. I've used it on two boats, larger than 28 feet.
Al, your link dont work for me
Please give more info so we can help you. If you are talking about the cabin sole, ive never seen non skid in there in the form of a rubber strip. Usually the cabin sole is plywood teak and holly. If you are talking about the cockpit sole, thats a different story. Then you are probably talking about teak strips with black CAULKING between the strips.This is a whole different animal. You will definately need to get s book on sailboat repair and maintenance. Its too long to describe here. If this be the case DO NOT use stripper , it would probably destry all the caulking. Most people use a belt sander if you can get into this area. Probably not though in the cabin sole. Learn to use hand scrapers from a cabinet maker. There is a procedure to learn how to sharpen a cabinet scraper. They work faster than you would think.
Please give more info so we can help you. If you are talking about the cabin sole, ive never seen non skid in there in the form of a rubber strip. Usually the cabin sole is plywood teak and holly. If you are talking about the cockpit sole, thats a different story. Then you are probably talking about teak strips with black CAULKING between the strips.This is a whole different animal. You will definately need to get s book on sailboat repair and maintenance. Its too long to describe here. If this be the case DO NOT use stripper , it would probably destry all the caulking. Most people use a belt sander if you can get into this area. Probably not though in the cabin sole. Learn to use hand scrapers from a cabinet maker. There is a procedure to learn how to sharpen a cabinet scraper. They work faster than you would think.
scraping
Hand scrapers work like a dream on a lot of things, if the paint or varnish is thick, grab a cheap hand scraper from the hardware and go to town. First step should be to take a file and round the corners of the hand scraper to keep it from gouging the wood, then use a cabinet scraper (easily made at home if you want) I use a lot of things for scrapers, hard steel is the best, stainless dulls up too quick and can be a real pain to sharpen, old plain irons make nice scrapers. As strange as it seems, scrapers can go a LOT faster than sanders on most materials If the wood has raised grain, a good sharp scraper can knock off the grain in a lot less tim than a sander will (nothing beats being able to pull it out and send it through a planer though!) A cabinet scraper will also leave a much smoother finish than sanding will. sanders have the noise and dust factor that makes most people think they work faster. Ken
Hand scrapers work like a dream on a lot of things, if the paint or varnish is thick, grab a cheap hand scraper from the hardware and go to town. First step should be to take a file and round the corners of the hand scraper to keep it from gouging the wood, then use a cabinet scraper (easily made at home if you want) I use a lot of things for scrapers, hard steel is the best, stainless dulls up too quick and can be a real pain to sharpen, old plain irons make nice scrapers. As strange as it seems, scrapers can go a LOT faster than sanders on most materials If the wood has raised grain, a good sharp scraper can knock off the grain in a lot less tim than a sander will (nothing beats being able to pull it out and send it through a planer though!) A cabinet scraper will also leave a much smoother finish than sanding will. sanders have the noise and dust factor that makes most people think they work faster. Ken
Cabinet Scrapers
cabinet Scrapers are usually small rectangular thin pieces of a spring steel. Sometimes they are curved like a "french Curve". They are 'sharpened ' with a burnishing tool. Once you learn how to use it, you will be absolutely amazed at how fast and how smooth the cut is. The trick is getting someone who really knows how to use a burnishing tool PROPERLY. Sorry, but its too hard to describe on here, but fortunately, it is very easy to do once you are instructed. I ought to make a Video, LOL. takes about 3 mins to create the burr necessary for 'cutting' (scrapeing).
cabinet Scrapers are usually small rectangular thin pieces of a spring steel. Sometimes they are curved like a "french Curve". They are 'sharpened ' with a burnishing tool. Once you learn how to use it, you will be absolutely amazed at how fast and how smooth the cut is. The trick is getting someone who really knows how to use a burnishing tool PROPERLY. Sorry, but its too hard to describe on here, but fortunately, it is very easy to do once you are instructed. I ought to make a Video, LOL. takes about 3 mins to create the burr necessary for 'cutting' (scrapeing).
This is the cabin sole. In the 41s5 Model of the Benetau the manufacturer uses a flooring which has every 2.5" a 3/32" groove within which is a rubber strip, slightly raised to provide a non slip surface when the sole is wet. Thata the good news. The bad news is that in order to refinish the floor,(it isnt bad as it is, but has lost some of its luster and has numerous scratches),it is very difficult to sand and very difficult to varnish. I am looking for someone who has done similar work and can offer some lessond learned.
Try calling Benetau
try calling Benetau or at least a local Benetau dealer. Dealers usually receive their boats in somewhat of a kit form. Surely they have accidentally damaged one and had to repair it.
try calling Benetau or at least a local Benetau dealer. Dealers usually receive their boats in somewhat of a kit form. Surely they have accidentally damaged one and had to repair it.
no-slip
won't be any magic tricks, use a scraper smaller than the spacing, you'll be able to scrape very cleanly without damaging the no-slip strips. you'll have more control with a scraper than you would with a power sander. with the rubber strips I'd stay well away from any strippers, it will either dissolve them or cause them to swell up. Afterwards depending on how well you've scraped you can go straight to the varnish after cleaning up, or hit it with some fine sandpaper I've never done it with rubber strips, but have done it with alernating 1.5 inch wood/carpet strips no problem. wood is wood, if you can't dissassemble you have to do the work in location. If you feel power sanding is the way to go, use a detail sander the B&D 'mouse' sander comes to mind as the one most likely to be known, But fein makes a great sander with enough attachments to make you reach for it anytime you need to sand/scrape/cut wood/metal/ceramic. A bit pricey, but when you've used one a few times you'll consider it cheap. fein tool: http://www.coastaltool.com/a/fein/multimaster.htm Don't have any connection with them but they are a great tool. Myself, I leave the fein in the truck and grab the scrapers for most detail work. for nicks or gouges in the wood you'll either have to live with them or fill them, depending on the construction of the sole you may not be able to sand them out, if it's laminated (normal for nearly all production boats) you should be able to patch it with matching veneer, or if there are 'hidden' areas, split some veneer off of them for the closest match possible, the more irregularly shaped you make the patch the less likely it is to be noticed. I play with sheets of veneer all the time and have actually look forward to some jobs! last one took 400 sheets of 4x12 cherry at $500 a sheet, don't want to hear OOOPS! too many times then.
won't be any magic tricks, use a scraper smaller than the spacing, you'll be able to scrape very cleanly without damaging the no-slip strips. you'll have more control with a scraper than you would with a power sander. with the rubber strips I'd stay well away from any strippers, it will either dissolve them or cause them to swell up. Afterwards depending on how well you've scraped you can go straight to the varnish after cleaning up, or hit it with some fine sandpaper I've never done it with rubber strips, but have done it with alernating 1.5 inch wood/carpet strips no problem. wood is wood, if you can't dissassemble you have to do the work in location. If you feel power sanding is the way to go, use a detail sander the B&D 'mouse' sander comes to mind as the one most likely to be known, But fein makes a great sander with enough attachments to make you reach for it anytime you need to sand/scrape/cut wood/metal/ceramic. A bit pricey, but when you've used one a few times you'll consider it cheap. fein tool: http://www.coastaltool.com/a/fein/multimaster.htm Don't have any connection with them but they are a great tool. Myself, I leave the fein in the truck and grab the scrapers for most detail work. for nicks or gouges in the wood you'll either have to live with them or fill them, depending on the construction of the sole you may not be able to sand them out, if it's laminated (normal for nearly all production boats) you should be able to patch it with matching veneer, or if there are 'hidden' areas, split some veneer off of them for the closest match possible, the more irregularly shaped you make the patch the less likely it is to be noticed. I play with sheets of veneer all the time and have actually look forward to some jobs! last one took 400 sheets of 4x12 cherry at $500 a sheet, don't want to hear OOOPS! too many times then.
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