My first was a hurricane write-off 33 which I restored and enjoyed for a number of years. The second, two other boat later, was an 81 37C which I sailed for 12 years and sold to go to the dark side after breaking my neck and not being able to see the sails. Things are looking up and I can now raise my chin sufficiently to drain a glass of wine, so I should be able to observe the sails. The new-to-me vessel is an 81 30. Cute boat in very good condition. Very excited about sailing a Cherubini again. Two simple questions. She comes with a 2GM 13hp. Potential speed under power and expected fuel consumption? For 44 years she has sailed without a vang. For those of you familiar with the deck stepped features of the 30, how or where do you attach the base for tackle style boom vang, or other similar device? So pleased to be back on the forum.
Third Cherubini
- Thread starter sandpiper10471
- Start date
Welcome back @sandpiper10471 . I have a 1978 H30 with a simple vang setup consisting of a mast bail and a boom bail connected with a 4:1 double block system where the mast block has a cam cleat as the vang line lock. The images below show the vang on my boat and examples of the components installed.
Blow me away's vang looks like mine on our '77 h27. It works fine. But!
But you have to think through the mast step - the aluminum short pipe rising from the deck to hold the bottom of the mast. The hole I drilled to hold the vang bail rod as it goes through the mast went through the aluminum step inside the mast. So I have to remove the bail if I need to take the mast down to work on it! Not a big deal, but do think through how you want to do that.
But you have to think through the mast step - the aluminum short pipe rising from the deck to hold the bottom of the mast. The hole I drilled to hold the vang bail rod as it goes through the mast went through the aluminum step inside the mast. So I have to remove the bail if I need to take the mast down to work on it! Not a big deal, but do think through how you want to do that.
Hull speed can be calculated, but I can't recall the formula. As to fuel consumption, a general rule of thumb for diesels is they burn 1 liter of fuel per hour for each 10 hp being developed. So if you are running at a throttle setting that develops 10/13 of your max rated hp, you should be burning around a liter an hour.
You should be able to get a fuel consumption curve from Yanmar for your specific engine. Or google "fuel consumption for Yanmar X" where X is your complete engine model number.
Thanks for those responses. I was hoping for some practical data from experience rather than the theoretical. However, some good base values have been presented.
We burn about 1\3 gallon an hour with a 2gm. Around 5 kts. Just had a ruptured fuel line yesterday. It was the line from the engine mounted filter to the high pressure fuel pump. What a mess to clean up. 41 year old line, I was hoping it would last for ever.
I have an ‘82 H30 with the 13hp 2GM engine. I get 6 knots at around 2,800 rpm with a clean bottom on flat water. Add 2 or 3 foot waves and a headwind, it drops to 3 or 4 knots. Last summer here on Lake Michigan I used 18 gallons of diesel over approximately 90 engine hours.
On the ‘82 and I think the ‘81 also, the raised white T shaped deck area below the mast base has aluminum plate laminated under the fiberglass for drill & tap bolt down installation of hardware. My control lines all run back to cabintop rope clutches in the cockpit, so I have several turning blocks around the mast base. The bottom end of a vang could be easily attached there too. There are similar plates in the cabintop to either side of companionway and at the deck organizer pads. You can confirm the presence of those plates with a moisture meter rather than drilling test holes. The meter will give a false 100% saturated reading where there’s metal in the deck.
I went to a Garhauer rigid vang and got rid of the topping lift that liked to snag a main sail batten on every light wind tack. Garhauer makes custom mounting plates to fit our boom and mast profiles, so it’s an easy drill & tap installation. Just have to keep the bottom bolts in the mast clear of the mast base flange that extends about an inch up into the mast. At dock, my main halyard is attached to the boom at the former topping lift.
On the ‘82 and I think the ‘81 also, the raised white T shaped deck area below the mast base has aluminum plate laminated under the fiberglass for drill & tap bolt down installation of hardware. My control lines all run back to cabintop rope clutches in the cockpit, so I have several turning blocks around the mast base. The bottom end of a vang could be easily attached there too. There are similar plates in the cabintop to either side of companionway and at the deck organizer pads. You can confirm the presence of those plates with a moisture meter rather than drilling test holes. The meter will give a false 100% saturated reading where there’s metal in the deck.
I went to a Garhauer rigid vang and got rid of the topping lift that liked to snag a main sail batten on every light wind tack. Garhauer makes custom mounting plates to fit our boom and mast profiles, so it’s an easy drill & tap installation. Just have to keep the bottom bolts in the mast clear of the mast base flange that extends about an inch up into the mast. At dock, my main halyard is attached to the boom at the former topping lift.
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