I have been considering trying to race my 31H Previous owners have had some luck with her when she was on a lake. Does anyone know what the PHRF rating is? What can I do to help prepare the boat. I am not a serious racer but mostly a cruiser. The racing looks fun and i would like to try it atleast once.
- Status
The PHRF for the H31...
is right around 171 assuming no spinnaker and standard sails. We race ours but not seriously. The B&R riggng is not the best configuration for racing especially off the wind. The hull design is built more for comfort than speed. Our club has a two tier racing program that allows us slower boats and less serious racers to compete in a series called the Cruiser Series. The races are intended to be a nice combination of competition and socializing.
is right around 171 assuming no spinnaker and standard sails. We race ours but not seriously. The B&R riggng is not the best configuration for racing especially off the wind. The hull design is built more for comfort than speed. Our club has a two tier racing program that allows us slower boats and less serious racers to compete in a series called the Cruiser Series. The races are intended to be a nice combination of competition and socializing.
Preparation: Clean smooth bottom Check rig tunning Get all excess weight off Review sail trim with the crew The more prepared you are the better you will do and the more you will enjoy. Try get the crew out for some practice a couple of hours before the start. Practice tacks and jibes, set the lead cars, mark your halyards. There's just so many little things that all add up to a winning boat.
H31_83-87 PHRF Rating
Go to the Gulf Yachting Association's Web site and select PHRF on the left margin. The rating on my H31 1987, with crusing credit, 3 blade prop, and 155 Gennoa (roller furling) NO Spinnaker, is 198. http://www.gya.org/
Go to the Gulf Yachting Association's Web site and select PHRF on the left margin. The rating on my H31 1987, with crusing credit, 3 blade prop, and 155 Gennoa (roller furling) NO Spinnaker, is 198. http://www.gya.org/
H31_83-87 PHRF Rating
I am glad you like my rating. The factory two blade prop was underpowered, vibrated, and had no "um". Three blade on the Yanmar 3GM (18HP)runs smooth, has plenty of torque and YES helped my rating. I am not a serious racer or I would not have a H31 (tub). I am a most of the time a cruiser, which is why I like the H31. I have added AC/Heat, cold plate in the ice box (keeps 34 deg year round @ 1amp), radar/chart plotter on rear arch with dink. Last year we motored from Panama City, FL to St Petersburg and back in one week (max wind was 3 kts) 40 hours down and 40 hours back, no problems, great trip. Going to the Dry Tortugas this year! bill
I am glad you like my rating. The factory two blade prop was underpowered, vibrated, and had no "um". Three blade on the Yanmar 3GM (18HP)runs smooth, has plenty of torque and YES helped my rating. I am not a serious racer or I would not have a H31 (tub). I am a most of the time a cruiser, which is why I like the H31. I have added AC/Heat, cold plate in the ice box (keeps 34 deg year round @ 1amp), radar/chart plotter on rear arch with dink. Last year we motored from Panama City, FL to St Petersburg and back in one week (max wind was 3 kts) 40 hours down and 40 hours back, no problems, great trip. Going to the Dry Tortugas this year! bill
Racing
I raced Highlanders for 12 years. They are a 20' CB boat with a planing hull, spinnaker, fractional rig, and a big main with roach. The sail plan is very simmilar to your boat. A few tips that took me years to learn - serious racers in one-designs will give you bad info to keep you in the back of the pack
These steps assume you are beating up-wind: 1. Put tell tales at three locations on your jib, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 the way up the luff. I do not know how far back from the forestay, but they should be placed at the point of maximum camber. Do not kill the sail with over trimming, the luff can be a bit lax, a few wrinkles along the forestay are fine. Let the top open out a bit so it is breathing well. Use the tell tales to tell you if the sail is stalling or not. The tell tales should be streaming out together on both the outside and inside. They are easy to see on sunny days - not so easy when cloudy! Use the jib lead ajustment and winch to get them in sync. 2. Trim the main to the jib, keeping the shape similar. Many racers use draft stripes (black tape) along the horizontal seems of both sails, or in an equivalent position to assist them in seeing this. Place two sets of tell tales along the leech just in enough so that they do not hang over the leech. You also want them to flow smoothly. If they are curling on either side of the sail; it is stalling and creating turbulence that slows you down. In order to keep the main from overpowering you, use a vang as necessary to pull down the center of the boom, this is a separate control function from the mainsheet. Use your traveller to bring the boom in without tightening the sail shape. A Cunningham to tighten the luff, and the outhaul to tighten the foot. 3. Points common to both sails. Basic trim - lose on everything in low wind, this is the most powerful setting and will push you through waves and chop. As wind speed picks up, moderately tighten haylards, sheets, vang, outhaul, leech lines, etc. to keep the best shape and greatest speed. As wind speed gets even higher, tighten the haylards, trim the jib and main in, tighten the vang, outhaul, to the max, and losen the leech lines but continue to control flutter. The least powerful and fastest settings are the tightest you can get, but you must balance this to the wind speed, water conditions, boat loading and characteristics. If things get really hectic, reduce sail before you lose control. Remember it is just a game, and should be fun! 4. When reaching the windward mark, loosen everything up as you turn the mark. Again this is based on judgement of the wind speed. Use a whisker pole as needed, if you have one. 5. Always use your crew weight in positions on the rail and in the cockpit to keep the boat on her feet, that is, to control both heel and fore and aft balance. You can kill your speed if you do everything right and have all your friends in the cockpit or sunning on the foredeck. Your crew may need to learn how to eat peanuts and handle their beverage while also serving in this capacity. Assign each to specific duties ahead of time and make sure they understand what is expected of them. This avoids uncomfortable communications under stress. Well, so much for sail trim. If you have not raced before, get a rule book and read it over, find out about any unusual local rules to be followed and be sure you understand the racing instructions before the start of the race. There is nothing worse that thinking you won the race and later learn you had to go around twice! Good Luck and have fun!!
I raced Highlanders for 12 years. They are a 20' CB boat with a planing hull, spinnaker, fractional rig, and a big main with roach. The sail plan is very simmilar to your boat. A few tips that took me years to learn - serious racers in one-designs will give you bad info to keep you in the back of the pack
These steps assume you are beating up-wind: 1. Put tell tales at three locations on your jib, 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 the way up the luff. I do not know how far back from the forestay, but they should be placed at the point of maximum camber. Do not kill the sail with over trimming, the luff can be a bit lax, a few wrinkles along the forestay are fine. Let the top open out a bit so it is breathing well. Use the tell tales to tell you if the sail is stalling or not. The tell tales should be streaming out together on both the outside and inside. They are easy to see on sunny days - not so easy when cloudy! Use the jib lead ajustment and winch to get them in sync. 2. Trim the main to the jib, keeping the shape similar. Many racers use draft stripes (black tape) along the horizontal seems of both sails, or in an equivalent position to assist them in seeing this. Place two sets of tell tales along the leech just in enough so that they do not hang over the leech. You also want them to flow smoothly. If they are curling on either side of the sail; it is stalling and creating turbulence that slows you down. In order to keep the main from overpowering you, use a vang as necessary to pull down the center of the boom, this is a separate control function from the mainsheet. Use your traveller to bring the boom in without tightening the sail shape. A Cunningham to tighten the luff, and the outhaul to tighten the foot. 3. Points common to both sails. Basic trim - lose on everything in low wind, this is the most powerful setting and will push you through waves and chop. As wind speed picks up, moderately tighten haylards, sheets, vang, outhaul, leech lines, etc. to keep the best shape and greatest speed. As wind speed gets even higher, tighten the haylards, trim the jib and main in, tighten the vang, outhaul, to the max, and losen the leech lines but continue to control flutter. The least powerful and fastest settings are the tightest you can get, but you must balance this to the wind speed, water conditions, boat loading and characteristics. If things get really hectic, reduce sail before you lose control. Remember it is just a game, and should be fun! 4. When reaching the windward mark, loosen everything up as you turn the mark. Again this is based on judgement of the wind speed. Use a whisker pole as needed, if you have one. 5. Always use your crew weight in positions on the rail and in the cockpit to keep the boat on her feet, that is, to control both heel and fore and aft balance. You can kill your speed if you do everything right and have all your friends in the cockpit or sunning on the foredeck. Your crew may need to learn how to eat peanuts and handle their beverage while also serving in this capacity. Assign each to specific duties ahead of time and make sure they understand what is expected of them. This avoids uncomfortable communications under stress. Well, so much for sail trim. If you have not raced before, get a rule book and read it over, find out about any unusual local rules to be followed and be sure you understand the racing instructions before the start of the race. There is nothing worse that thinking you won the race and later learn you had to go around twice! Good Luck and have fun!!Hey Bill
Where did you get the 3 blade prop? I have noticed that my two blade just doesn't have much umph. You say yours run very smoothly? I would be interested in the pitch and diameter. Paul
Where did you get the 3 blade prop? I have noticed that my two blade just doesn't have much umph. You say yours run very smoothly? I would be interested in the pitch and diameter. Paul
H31_83-87 3 Blade Prop
Margaritaville Give me a few days to get out my file on the prop and I will pass along the specs. bill
Margaritaville Give me a few days to get out my file on the prop and I will pass along the specs. bill
H31_83-87 3 Blade Prop
My 3 blade Prop is 15 X 10. There are many thoughts on this topic, look in the archives under model "31" (note the achives do not offer a search for model "H31_83-87" just "31". You will find many articles pro and con. I am very happy with mine. bill
My 3 blade Prop is 15 X 10. There are many thoughts on this topic, look in the archives under model "31" (note the achives do not offer a search for model "H31_83-87" just "31". You will find many articles pro and con. I am very happy with mine. bill
H31_83-87 3 Blade Prop
I got my prop from a friend's cousin, no dollars, just traded for services. I am sure most any prop shop can get you one, or will have a used one that they took in on trade. They can cut and reshape, most any prop. My shaft is 1" in diameter. bill
I got my prop from a friend's cousin, no dollars, just traded for services. I am sure most any prop shop can get you one, or will have a used one that they took in on trade. They can cut and reshape, most any prop. My shaft is 1" in diameter. bill
Race your Hunter 31
Things you should know and do: make sure the boat is sound, tuned and proper instumentation have sails that are good and will not tear in a blow be knowledgable about most of the right-of-way rules have a crew that is dependable for every weeks race no eating or drinking booze during the race wear pfd's practice over-board recovery working marine radio race jib and main first have a whisker pole for down wind (practice) know how to gibe safely have a boom vang everyone should be assignd a job/duty(a tactition is helpful) these are just a few for starters.
Things you should know and do: make sure the boat is sound, tuned and proper instumentation have sails that are good and will not tear in a blow be knowledgable about most of the right-of-way rules have a crew that is dependable for every weeks race no eating or drinking booze during the race wear pfd's practice over-board recovery working marine radio race jib and main first have a whisker pole for down wind (practice) know how to gibe safely have a boom vang everyone should be assignd a job/duty(a tactition is helpful) these are just a few for starters.
- Status