There’s a hole in my boat

[Davidasailor26]

I don't think you want to hot-coat ablative. That is more appropriate for hard anti-fouling paint.

I’ve never seen that distinction in any application instructions. The Interlux Interprotect 2000e data sheet ( https://www.defender.com/pdf/Interlux_Interprotect_2000E.pdf ) has a table with minimum and maximum overcoat times for different paints. There doesn’t seem to be a difference between times for ablatives like ACT of hard paints like Interlux Ultra. The note under that table gives the instructions for hot coating without any statement about it only applying to certain paint types.

 

[rgranger]

I’ve never seen that distinction in any application instructions. The Interlux Interprotect 2000e data sheet ( https://www.defender.com/pdf/Interlux_Interprotect_2000E.pdf ) has a table with minimum and maximum overcoat times for different paints. There doesn’t seem to be a difference between times for ablatives like ACT of hard paints like Interlux Ultra. The note under that table gives the instructions for hot coating without any statement about it only applying to certain paint types.

Sorry. I read the data sheet and I think we are using words differently. You said "hot potting" and I interpreted that as meaning the epoxy barrier coat had not fully cured yet so you could get a chemical bond with the antifouling bottom paint. Since ablative is meant to "ablate" you don't really want a chemical bond with your barrier coat. You do want a good mechanical bond.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Sorry. I read the data sheet and I think we are using words differently. You said "hot potting" and I interpreted that as meaning the epoxy barrier coat had not fully cured yet so you could get a chemical bond with the antifouling bottom paint. Since ablative is meant to "ablate" you don't really want a chemical bond with your barrier coat. You do want a good mechanical bond.

I think we meant the same thing. I did mean applying the antifouling before the epoxy is fully cured. Here’s the note from the Interprotect data sheet that I’ve followed for both ablative and hard paint - “If you can leave a thumb print in the primer, and not get paint on your thumb, the primer is ready for overcoating. Start testing the primer, 30 minutes after application, where you first started applying the primer. Continue testing every 15 minutes until the "Thumb Print Test" is passed, and then immediately begin applying antifouling paint. If the primer cures hard before it is overcoated, an additional coat of Interprotect 2000E can be applied, or the primer can be allowed to cure, and sanded with 80 grade (grit) sandpaper.”

While I see where you’re coming from with the idea of wanting an ablative paint to ablate without a chemical bond, I don’t see that backed up by the instructions.