Hi all -- I am about to try to change the packing in my stuffing box. The stuffing box is the kind that does not have a hose but is mounted rigidly to the boat, Similsr to one mfg by Buck-Algonquin, although my boat was built in the Netherlands. Has anyone had experience doing this? Any advice? As always, thanks. Steve
The other kind of stuffing box
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Hi all -- I am about to try to change the packing in my stuffing box. The stuffing box is the kind that does not have a hose but is mounted rigidly to the boat, Similsr to one mfg by Buck-Algonquin, although my boat was built in the Netherlands. Has anyone had experience doing this? Any advice? As always, thanks. Steve
Stuffing-box picture?
I am not familiar with the stuffing box the way you describe it, Steve. Can you send a picture? --and maybe I can help then. JC cherubiniand@aol.com
I am not familiar with the stuffing box the way you describe it, Steve. Can you send a picture? --and maybe I can help then. JC cherubiniand@aol.com
Stuffing-box picture?
I am not familiar with the stuffing box the way you describe it, Steve. Can you send a picture? --and maybe I can help then. JC cherubiniand@aol.com
I am not familiar with the stuffing box the way you describe it, Steve. Can you send a picture? --and maybe I can help then. JC cherubiniand@aol.com
Generally...
Generally the type made for a fixed installation, without hose, has the same type of male shaft log end/female nut as the type with the hose. The procedure for replacing the flax packing is usually the same as this: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box Where your boat was made over seas a photo or a link to a photo would be a big help.. Sometimes they look like this: http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id=175 If so the procedure is still very similar just backwards if that makes sense..
Generally the type made for a fixed installation, without hose, has the same type of male shaft log end/female nut as the type with the hose. The procedure for replacing the flax packing is usually the same as this: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box Where your boat was made over seas a photo or a link to a photo would be a big help.. Sometimes they look like this: http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id=175 If so the procedure is still very similar just backwards if that makes sense..
Generally...
Generally the type made for a fixed installation, without hose, has the same type of male shaft log end/female nut as the type with the hose. The procedure for replacing the flax packing is usually the same as this: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box Where your boat was made over seas a photo or a link to a photo would be a big help.. Sometimes they look like this: http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id=175 If so the procedure is still very similar just backwards if that makes sense..
Generally the type made for a fixed installation, without hose, has the same type of male shaft log end/female nut as the type with the hose. The procedure for replacing the flax packing is usually the same as this: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box Where your boat was made over seas a photo or a link to a photo would be a big help.. Sometimes they look like this: http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id=175 If so the procedure is still very similar just backwards if that makes sense..
Stuffing box
My stuffing box is very similar to the one pictured. Thank you for posting that. I tried for 2 weeks to disassemble it, and finally after an entire can of PB Blaster and a lot of light tapping, it popped apart yesterday. I had lost hope of that happening and didn't bother bringing a camera with me. I'm not sure about the backwards part, although that usually describes my efforts. Could you please tell me the sequence of steps for repacking this type of unit? Thanks
My stuffing box is very similar to the one pictured. Thank you for posting that. I tried for 2 weeks to disassemble it, and finally after an entire can of PB Blaster and a lot of light tapping, it popped apart yesterday. I had lost hope of that happening and didn't bother bringing a camera with me. I'm not sure about the backwards part, although that usually describes my efforts. Could you please tell me the sequence of steps for repacking this type of unit? Thanks
Stuffing box
My stuffing box is very similar to the one pictured. Thank you for posting that. I tried for 2 weeks to disassemble it, and finally after an entire can of PB Blaster and a lot of light tapping, it popped apart yesterday. I had lost hope of that happening and didn't bother bringing a camera with me. I'm not sure about the backwards part, although that usually describes my efforts. Could you please tell me the sequence of steps for repacking this type of unit? Thanks
My stuffing box is very similar to the one pictured. Thank you for posting that. I tried for 2 weeks to disassemble it, and finally after an entire can of PB Blaster and a lot of light tapping, it popped apart yesterday. I had lost hope of that happening and didn't bother bringing a camera with me. I'm not sure about the backwards part, although that usually describes my efforts. Could you please tell me the sequence of steps for repacking this type of unit? Thanks
It's tough without a photo..
It's tough without an actual photo of yours. The main differences with some of these is that on the type with a nut the flax is stuffed into the nut which is on the engine side of the stuffing box. With some, not all, of the compression type boxes you stuff the flax into the stern tube side then the "compression device" compresses it into place. Backwards means your putting flax, on some designs, into the part connected to the boat instead of the nut or compression sleeve..
It's tough without an actual photo of yours. The main differences with some of these is that on the type with a nut the flax is stuffed into the nut which is on the engine side of the stuffing box. With some, not all, of the compression type boxes you stuff the flax into the stern tube side then the "compression device" compresses it into place. Backwards means your putting flax, on some designs, into the part connected to the boat instead of the nut or compression sleeve..
It's tough without a photo..
It's tough without an actual photo of yours. The main differences with some of these is that on the type with a nut the flax is stuffed into the nut which is on the engine side of the stuffing box. With some, not all, of the compression type boxes you stuff the flax into the stern tube side then the "compression device" compresses it into place. Backwards means your putting flax, on some designs, into the part connected to the boat instead of the nut or compression sleeve..
It's tough without an actual photo of yours. The main differences with some of these is that on the type with a nut the flax is stuffed into the nut which is on the engine side of the stuffing box. With some, not all, of the compression type boxes you stuff the flax into the stern tube side then the "compression device" compresses it into place. Backwards means your putting flax, on some designs, into the part connected to the boat instead of the nut or compression sleeve..
Here's how...
Stuffing box best replaced on the hards, not in the water REMOVAL Unscrew thin brass jam nut to free up big one Unscrew big brass nut completely. Spray WD-40 inside to loosen up the old flax inside. Turn corkscrew pick into first layer, pull Vise Grip offers better leverage Repeat until all layers removed 2 if was chinzy, 3 more likely (In first photo of Reply 2 above, I guess only one layer was installed.) Clear out brass seating of any loose debris so new flax sits well INSTALL Buy 13 inches Teflon 1/4 inch to cut into three pieces Trim the end at 45 degrees to dovetail with next cut, 45 degrees Turn first wrap tight, mark with blade (or do at home with 1-inch stanchion) Cut with sharp razor knife or Dremel saw Cut remaining 2 wraps to same size Poke first one in clockwise by turning big nut slowly Mark where it started with red pen Screw down onto shaft to pack, by hand only Loosen and repeat two more times Do not overtighten, or will burn flax and not seat properly TEST When launch, be prepared to tighten using wrench keep jam nut loose Should be no drips at rest, do not overtighten In gear, should be no more than 1-3 drops per minute preferably none Optimum is no drips in gear “1-3 is an old wives tale,” says Fred at Yard Tighten one flat at a time while in gear If the big nut is warm, back off as too tight burning the flax (unlikely) Always retighten the jam cleat to avoid inadvertent loosening When it’s right, try a day or week later takes time, be patient Check again for three weeks then three months later Should last three or four years okay to tighten one flat a time, over time
Stuffing box best replaced on the hards, not in the water REMOVAL Unscrew thin brass jam nut to free up big one Unscrew big brass nut completely. Spray WD-40 inside to loosen up the old flax inside. Turn corkscrew pick into first layer, pull Vise Grip offers better leverage Repeat until all layers removed 2 if was chinzy, 3 more likely (In first photo of Reply 2 above, I guess only one layer was installed.) Clear out brass seating of any loose debris so new flax sits well INSTALL Buy 13 inches Teflon 1/4 inch to cut into three pieces Trim the end at 45 degrees to dovetail with next cut, 45 degrees Turn first wrap tight, mark with blade (or do at home with 1-inch stanchion) Cut with sharp razor knife or Dremel saw Cut remaining 2 wraps to same size Poke first one in clockwise by turning big nut slowly Mark where it started with red pen Screw down onto shaft to pack, by hand only Loosen and repeat two more times Do not overtighten, or will burn flax and not seat properly TEST When launch, be prepared to tighten using wrench keep jam nut loose Should be no drips at rest, do not overtighten In gear, should be no more than 1-3 drops per minute preferably none Optimum is no drips in gear “1-3 is an old wives tale,” says Fred at Yard Tighten one flat at a time while in gear If the big nut is warm, back off as too tight burning the flax (unlikely) Always retighten the jam cleat to avoid inadvertent loosening When it’s right, try a day or week later takes time, be patient Check again for three weeks then three months later Should last three or four years okay to tighten one flat a time, over time
Here's how...
Stuffing box best replaced on the hards, not in the water REMOVAL Unscrew thin brass jam nut to free up big one Unscrew big brass nut completely. Spray WD-40 inside to loosen up the old flax inside. Turn corkscrew pick into first layer, pull Vise Grip offers better leverage Repeat until all layers removed 2 if was chinzy, 3 more likely (In first photo of Reply 2 above, I guess only one layer was installed.) Clear out brass seating of any loose debris so new flax sits well INSTALL Buy 13 inches Teflon 1/4 inch to cut into three pieces Trim the end at 45 degrees to dovetail with next cut, 45 degrees Turn first wrap tight, mark with blade (or do at home with 1-inch stanchion) Cut with sharp razor knife or Dremel saw Cut remaining 2 wraps to same size Poke first one in clockwise by turning big nut slowly Mark where it started with red pen Screw down onto shaft to pack, by hand only Loosen and repeat two more times Do not overtighten, or will burn flax and not seat properly TEST When launch, be prepared to tighten using wrench keep jam nut loose Should be no drips at rest, do not overtighten In gear, should be no more than 1-3 drops per minute preferably none Optimum is no drips in gear “1-3 is an old wives tale,” says Fred at Yard Tighten one flat at a time while in gear If the big nut is warm, back off as too tight burning the flax (unlikely) Always retighten the jam cleat to avoid inadvertent loosening When it’s right, try a day or week later takes time, be patient Check again for three weeks then three months later Should last three or four years okay to tighten one flat a time, over time
Stuffing box best replaced on the hards, not in the water REMOVAL Unscrew thin brass jam nut to free up big one Unscrew big brass nut completely. Spray WD-40 inside to loosen up the old flax inside. Turn corkscrew pick into first layer, pull Vise Grip offers better leverage Repeat until all layers removed 2 if was chinzy, 3 more likely (In first photo of Reply 2 above, I guess only one layer was installed.) Clear out brass seating of any loose debris so new flax sits well INSTALL Buy 13 inches Teflon 1/4 inch to cut into three pieces Trim the end at 45 degrees to dovetail with next cut, 45 degrees Turn first wrap tight, mark with blade (or do at home with 1-inch stanchion) Cut with sharp razor knife or Dremel saw Cut remaining 2 wraps to same size Poke first one in clockwise by turning big nut slowly Mark where it started with red pen Screw down onto shaft to pack, by hand only Loosen and repeat two more times Do not overtighten, or will burn flax and not seat properly TEST When launch, be prepared to tighten using wrench keep jam nut loose Should be no drips at rest, do not overtighten In gear, should be no more than 1-3 drops per minute preferably none Optimum is no drips in gear “1-3 is an old wives tale,” says Fred at Yard Tighten one flat at a time while in gear If the big nut is warm, back off as too tight burning the flax (unlikely) Always retighten the jam cleat to avoid inadvertent loosening When it’s right, try a day or week later takes time, be patient Check again for three weeks then three months later Should last three or four years okay to tighten one flat a time, over time
Bill...
Please STOP copy and pasting those directions for situations where they may not even apply or PLEASE read the WHOLE thread.. #1) We have NO idea what size packing his box takes so boldly telling him to buy 1/4 inch packing is like shooting darts with a blind fold on. He could take 3/16 for all we know! #2) His stuffing box, if it's the compression type like the Buck Algonquin in this picture: http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id=175 does not have a lock nut or a large nut so that whole part may not even apply to this situation. #3) Not ALL stuffing boxes can be made to not drip when the shaft is not spinning. This is very dependent on the condition of the shaft on a particular boat. Many, many many boats out there with PROPERLY adjusted stuffing boxes will still drip some while at rest. Again it's more a matter of the particular scenario and shaft condition on a given boat. #4) In gear it's how few drips you can adjust to without the box getting to warm. Not always, as you so flatly state, "1 to 3 drops per minute". Many boats will drip more and some less even when properly adjusted... #5) "1 to 3 drops per minute is an old wives tale" is complete BS. Yes some of the newer packings, in certain situations, can be virtually drip free but this DOES NOT apply to all shafts, stuffing boxes or situations and is flat out BAD and MISLEADING information that could ruin someones shaft in fairly short order! #6) "Should last three or four years" is also misleading becuase you say it like it's fact and it applies to all situations. If you are in high silt waters (rivers et.al) you may not even get two seasons out of a packing job. When you can no longer adjust it to a satisfactory drip level without over heating the box is a good sign it's time to replace the packing.. The rest of your instructions are good but please do edit your "copy and paste" to fit the question..
Please STOP copy and pasting those directions for situations where they may not even apply or PLEASE read the WHOLE thread.. #1) We have NO idea what size packing his box takes so boldly telling him to buy 1/4 inch packing is like shooting darts with a blind fold on. He could take 3/16 for all we know! #2) His stuffing box, if it's the compression type like the Buck Algonquin in this picture: http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id=175 does not have a lock nut or a large nut so that whole part may not even apply to this situation. #3) Not ALL stuffing boxes can be made to not drip when the shaft is not spinning. This is very dependent on the condition of the shaft on a particular boat. Many, many many boats out there with PROPERLY adjusted stuffing boxes will still drip some while at rest. Again it's more a matter of the particular scenario and shaft condition on a given boat. #4) In gear it's how few drips you can adjust to without the box getting to warm. Not always, as you so flatly state, "1 to 3 drops per minute". Many boats will drip more and some less even when properly adjusted... #5) "1 to 3 drops per minute is an old wives tale" is complete BS. Yes some of the newer packings, in certain situations, can be virtually drip free but this DOES NOT apply to all shafts, stuffing boxes or situations and is flat out BAD and MISLEADING information that could ruin someones shaft in fairly short order! #6) "Should last three or four years" is also misleading becuase you say it like it's fact and it applies to all situations. If you are in high silt waters (rivers et.al) you may not even get two seasons out of a packing job. When you can no longer adjust it to a satisfactory drip level without over heating the box is a good sign it's time to replace the packing.. The rest of your instructions are good but please do edit your "copy and paste" to fit the question..
Bill...
Please STOP copy and pasting those directions for situations where they may not even apply or PLEASE read the WHOLE thread.. #1) We have NO idea what size packing his box takes so boldly telling him to buy 1/4 inch packing is like shooting darts with a blind fold on. He could take 3/16 for all we know! #2) His stuffing box, if it's the compression type like the Buck Algonquin in this picture: http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id=175 does not have a lock nut or a large nut so that whole part may not even apply to this situation. #3) Not ALL stuffing boxes can be made to not drip when the shaft is not spinning. This is very dependent on the condition of the shaft on a particular boat. Many, many many boats out there with PROPERLY adjusted stuffing boxes will still drip some while at rest. Again it's more a matter of the particular scenario and shaft condition on a given boat. #4) In gear it's how few drips you can adjust to without the box getting to warm. Not always, as you so flatly state, "1 to 3 drops per minute". Many boats will drip more and some less even when properly adjusted... #5) "1 to 3 drops per minute is an old wives tale" is complete BS. Yes some of the newer packings, in certain situations, can be virtually drip free but this DOES NOT apply to all shafts, stuffing boxes or situations and is flat out BAD and MISLEADING information that could ruin someones shaft in fairly short order! #6) "Should last three or four years" is also misleading becuase you say it like it's fact and it applies to all situations. If you are in high silt waters (rivers et.al) you may not even get two seasons out of a packing job. When you can no longer adjust it to a satisfactory drip level without over heating the box is a good sign it's time to replace the packing.. The rest of your instructions are good but please do edit your "copy and paste" to fit the question..
Please STOP copy and pasting those directions for situations where they may not even apply or PLEASE read the WHOLE thread.. #1) We have NO idea what size packing his box takes so boldly telling him to buy 1/4 inch packing is like shooting darts with a blind fold on. He could take 3/16 for all we know! #2) His stuffing box, if it's the compression type like the Buck Algonquin in this picture: http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id=175 does not have a lock nut or a large nut so that whole part may not even apply to this situation. #3) Not ALL stuffing boxes can be made to not drip when the shaft is not spinning. This is very dependent on the condition of the shaft on a particular boat. Many, many many boats out there with PROPERLY adjusted stuffing boxes will still drip some while at rest. Again it's more a matter of the particular scenario and shaft condition on a given boat. #4) In gear it's how few drips you can adjust to without the box getting to warm. Not always, as you so flatly state, "1 to 3 drops per minute". Many boats will drip more and some less even when properly adjusted... #5) "1 to 3 drops per minute is an old wives tale" is complete BS. Yes some of the newer packings, in certain situations, can be virtually drip free but this DOES NOT apply to all shafts, stuffing boxes or situations and is flat out BAD and MISLEADING information that could ruin someones shaft in fairly short order! #6) "Should last three or four years" is also misleading becuase you say it like it's fact and it applies to all situations. If you are in high silt waters (rivers et.al) you may not even get two seasons out of a packing job. When you can no longer adjust it to a satisfactory drip level without over heating the box is a good sign it's time to replace the packing.. The rest of your instructions are good but please do edit your "copy and paste" to fit the question..
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