I have started sanding the old paint off. I figured to go ahead and get the old bottom paint of first and if I do not grow a third arm I will continue with the sides, I am also removing all the teak and sanding and refitting. I would also like to remove the rub rail how difficult is that? The PO replaced it not long ago and the rub rail looks great but they did not recaulk it. I imagine that would be a great thing to do to avoid leaks. I am just damn lucky I have a large carport that keeps it out of the sun and rain while I work on it. I am hopeful to complete the painting and refit in two months.
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Rub rail
The rub rail is simple if it's made of aluminum. There's probably two screws that hold the rubber in on the transom, and after the rubber is removed, you can get at the screws that hold the molding. You're lucky to have a nice shelter to work on it. Anyway, it sound like a plan and I couldn't think of a better time than now to do it. Good luck!
Joe
The rub rail is simple if it's made of aluminum. There's probably two screws that hold the rubber in on the transom, and after the rubber is removed, you can get at the screws that hold the molding. You're lucky to have a nice shelter to work on it. Anyway, it sound like a plan and I couldn't think of a better time than now to do it. Good luck!
Joe
Good times ahead!
Yea, diving deep.
If your rubrail is like mine, its a two part rubber deal. There is the white rubber that screws into the seam of the hull and deck and the grey rubber insert part. I've learned more from my 25' by sitting in the cockpit locker doing electrical than I have from anything else! Thats where I can see the seam of the two halves of a production boat. There isn't anything backing the screws either where exposed. Good luck.
Yea, diving deep.
If your rubrail is like mine, its a two part rubber deal. There is the white rubber that screws into the seam of the hull and deck and the grey rubber insert part. I've learned more from my 25' by sitting in the cockpit locker doing electrical than I have from anything else! Thats where I can see the seam of the two halves of a production boat. There isn't anything backing the screws either where exposed. Good luck.Just came in high from bleach
I decided the last thing I would do today would be to clean the little bit of pine tar out of the cockpit. Even a weak bleach solution gets to you after a while.
Thanks guys
I pulled the rubber insert out of the rub rail and holy self tapping screws Batman, that is a lot of screws to back out!! Thankful for cordless drills. The PO went with a non O'Day replacement on the rub rail, it is black on black. Still in shock from seeing all those screws!
I decided the last thing I would do today would be to clean the little bit of pine tar out of the cockpit. Even a weak bleach solution gets to you after a while.
Thanks guys
I pulled the rubber insert out of the rub rail and holy self tapping screws Batman, that is a lot of screws to back out!! Thankful for cordless drills. The PO went with a non O'Day replacement on the rub rail, it is black on black. Still in shock from seeing all those screws!
caulking
I hesitate to reply; it's up to you to find your fun, but my suggestion is that you really need to recaulk the hull/deck joint, not the rubrail. My rubrail isn't caulked at all except for the screws themselves. You could remove the hull/deck screws in alternating sections, clean out the joint down to solvent and recaulk/rescrew. I suggest alternating sections of no more than 12-15 inches so the joint doesn't spring out, which it will want to do with the boat sitting on bunks or stands.
I've been down the garden path and don't recommend it. The O25 is a good starter boat but the build quality is only adequate. Now that they're older, any small project runs the risk of turning into a major renovation. I'd go for the cosmetic repairs, sail for a couple of years and move on. Too many good boats to choose from. As Boat 'n Bus mentioned, the boat is not assembled with proper hardware, just self tapping screws which easily strip leaving a crumbled hole in the fiberglass. Replacing the tapping screws with machine screws and backing hardware is only possible with a lot of hard work and scraped knuckles. the headliner doesn't provide enough access for fat fingers to place backing strips or even washers and nuts without a lot of patience.
I hesitate to reply; it's up to you to find your fun, but my suggestion is that you really need to recaulk the hull/deck joint, not the rubrail. My rubrail isn't caulked at all except for the screws themselves. You could remove the hull/deck screws in alternating sections, clean out the joint down to solvent and recaulk/rescrew. I suggest alternating sections of no more than 12-15 inches so the joint doesn't spring out, which it will want to do with the boat sitting on bunks or stands.
I've been down the garden path and don't recommend it. The O25 is a good starter boat but the build quality is only adequate. Now that they're older, any small project runs the risk of turning into a major renovation. I'd go for the cosmetic repairs, sail for a couple of years and move on. Too many good boats to choose from. As Boat 'n Bus mentioned, the boat is not assembled with proper hardware, just self tapping screws which easily strip leaving a crumbled hole in the fiberglass. Replacing the tapping screws with machine screws and backing hardware is only possible with a lot of hard work and scraped knuckles. the headliner doesn't provide enough access for fat fingers to place backing strips or even washers and nuts without a lot of patience.
I would not worry about removing the whole rub rail!
Then clean things up a bit recaulk with something like 3M 4000 and reconnect the new/old primary rub rail. I have installed new rub rail with new holes and caulked the old holes. The deck should not come off if you remove all the rub rail. The weight of the deck overlapping the hull will keep things from moving.
If you mess with the ports, I would first fill between the interior and the exterior liner/cabin top, then use a good 100% silicone to seal the PVC ports.
r.w.landau
Then clean things up a bit recaulk with something like 3M 4000 and reconnect the new/old primary rub rail. I have installed new rub rail with new holes and caulked the old holes. The deck should not come off if you remove all the rub rail. The weight of the deck overlapping the hull will keep things from moving.
If you mess with the ports, I would first fill between the interior and the exterior liner/cabin top, then use a good 100% silicone to seal the PVC ports.
r.w.landau
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