The mast will finally come down, but then what?

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cymeyer

cymeyer

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Jul 8, 2005
522
Jeanneau 389 Grosse Pointe Farms, MI
After 14 years of sailing on our 321, I figured it was time to step the mast for the first time.

However, not sure what to look for. Our yard does not examine the mast.

I was planning to replace all of the lights and clean the spider webs well from the top. I also know the windex needs straightening.

Look for wear of the stays at the top and on the spreaders.
I do have new halyards for jib and main which I was planning to put on as well, but not sure if that is easier with the mast down or up.

Any other suggestions for me?
 
trainmanjess

trainmanjess

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Dec 7, 2012
515
Kittiwake 23, Irwin 43 .. Indianapolis / indianatown, fl
hello

I have a trailer sailor, a MacGregor 25, so I take my mast down all the time when I trailer it... but I inspect it regular... the obvious things to look for are cracks at the top, loose screws for fittings, push pins and detent rings missing or broken, look for wear and tear on the shroud and stay ends, check your sail slide for bends, deforemeties, and while it is down, grease or use non stick graphite on it to help your slides move better...

when you replace the halyard, it doesn't matter if it up or down... tape the new halyard to the end of the old halyard, and pull it through the mast and blocks just like the old halyard is... if you have to run new wires up through the mast, use the halyard by taping the wire ends to it and pulling them through it.... that is how I did mine.... also to keep the banging sound down, use zip ties to hold the wires together, but do not clip off the ends.... use 3 or 4 zip ties together and place the pig tails out in opposite directions... do this every 2 1/2 to 3 feet and this will keep your wires from banging inside your mast and making noise... my mast is silent... it even helps to keep my halyards quiet too, and doesn't interfere with them...

sincerely
Jess
 
FastOlson

FastOlson

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Apr 8, 2010
2,119
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
Make a List, Check it Twice...

If you are like most of us, this is a major event. It costs some $ to have the spar picked and laid down on padded supports. Boat will be tied up at the yard for a bit.
Since it's likely that this will not be done again for another 14 years... I would go ahead and replace the standing rig. That's normally a 12 to 15 year scheduled task anyhow.

Might be good to pull new wire for the 12 volt stuff at the top, maybe.
Take a good look at the steaming/deck light combo. Take the lens off and see how UV-damaged it is. New bulbs for sure. If going with a "new tech" LED anchor light at the top, and perhaps converting the nav lighting to LED, you could down-size the wiring to #14 or perhaps 16, but do the math on those long wire runs and acceptable line loss.

Undo, and check on the connections for your wind transducer. If there's any need for a replacement, This is the time to do so.

Carefully check the sheaves at the top for any bit of wobble -- if you have to replace an axle pin or a sheave, This (!) is the time to do so.

Inspect the spreader tips for corrosion and the roots for any cracking or wear of any kind. If the tips need new protectors, this is the opportunity to put them on.

If there are lazy jacks in your future, this is the time to attach their blocks to the spar.

Tired of having your burgee halyard foul? Add a second sheave, about 15 inches inward from the main little sheave, on the bottom of that lower spreader. Then run the new light line across to that new sheave and then down... Your burgee or other flag will then fly free without being tangled in the return fall.

Whether your spar is deck or thru-stepped, this IS the time to re-waterproof that area and rebed the step or any other fittings that penetrate the cabin top.

Ditto the chainplates (or metal fittings that pass the shroud load thru the deck. Pull 'em and check for rot. Re-seal all.

We did all this stuff when we had the spar down on our '88 boat back in '02. Peace of mind is a Good Thing... and all the work done 'aloft' still works without problems (knock wood...)

Cheers,
Loren
 
cymeyer

cymeyer

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Jul 8, 2005
522
Jeanneau 389 Grosse Pointe Farms, MI
Thanks for the input. I sincerely appreciate it.
 
C

Captn TJ

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Nov 24, 2012
586
Before you pull the mast check tension on the rigging including the uppers if its discontinuous. If you don't have or can't borrow a guage then put tape around the studs so you can replicate mast tension when you raise it.

Once down is check the rigging for corrosion then the cotter pins at the mast and spreaders. It's a lot easier to replace the halyards with the mast down since the masthead openings at the sheaves are tight. Best way to do it is to run a messenger line completely through the mast then the new halyard. I'd leave the messenger lines on through the winter then attach new ones next spring. No need to worry about wires since they're housed in a conduit.

FYI it'll make life easier if you can leave the spreaders on with the shrouds attached.

Lastly good time to wax the mast - do not use polish since it will affect the anodized finish. Wax is sufficient.
 
cymeyer

cymeyer

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Jul 8, 2005
522
Jeanneau 389 Grosse Pointe Farms, MI
Gus is the proud captain. My boat has never left port without me in 14 years and rarely leaves without Gus. That is why we named our boat 'With Gusto'.

Hope you have nice wind in Portland. Beautiful place!
 
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