The Gap
- Thread starter rblevens
- Start date
Gap?
I don't know if the 37 is similar to my old 1980 H30 but there was no gap between the top of the rudder stock and the hull. In the water, the rudder would "float" up and grind against the hull at that spot. I made a couple of friction rings/gaskets out of some plastic lids and with a radial cut, was able to spread them open to fit around and snap in place around the top of the rudder post just under the hull. Each spring, just before launch, I would spread some waterproof grease between the gaskets and enjoy smoother steering all season. These devices lasted for many years and were still in place when I sold the boat.
I don't know if the 37 is similar to my old 1980 H30 but there was no gap between the top of the rudder stock and the hull. In the water, the rudder would "float" up and grind against the hull at that spot. I made a couple of friction rings/gaskets out of some plastic lids and with a radial cut, was able to spread them open to fit around and snap in place around the top of the rudder post just under the hull. Each spring, just before launch, I would spread some waterproof grease between the gaskets and enjoy smoother steering all season. These devices lasted for many years and were still in place when I sold the boat.
gap size ??
Ya, I also WLTK that gap size. My 80' 37c has closed up to nothing .I knew I was do for a rudder repair but now it's going be a rebuild I fear.
Ya, I also WLTK that gap size. My 80' 37c has closed up to nothing .I knew I was do for a rudder repair but now it's going be a rebuild I fear.
When afloat the rudder should be near neutral buoyancy. There is nothing in the bearing design of the H37C to prevent the rudder from floating up against the hull except its own weight. One way to add weight to the rudder is to fill the hollow rudder shaft with sand, lead shot, etc. Do a bit at a time, as too much weight will cause increased drag on the top bearing and make make the helm 'heavy'.
My original rudder was so waterlogged that floating and wearing on the hull was never a problem. The new rudder likewise has not rubbed but I am not sure why. You could always manufacture a collar like the one on top of the shelf and attach it under the shelf. Old friend Tom did exactly that when he installed hydraulic steering.
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Ed, was that a hydraulic autopilot or did Tom actually replace the quadrant & cable with hydraulic steering? (I can't imagine why you would do that as hydraulic steering is notoriously 'dead' feeling).
rudder gap
Ok I understand about a Good rudder that is Not water logged. Mine is old and I believed water logged from bottom contact. I am in the process of rebuilding pedestal/steering/rudder at this time. I'll post my damaged area after more tear down.
Ok I understand about a Good rudder that is Not water logged. Mine is old and I believed water logged from bottom contact. I am in the process of rebuilding pedestal/steering/rudder at this time. I'll post my damaged area after more tear down.
The gap is very small. I have wondered what benefit there is from having the rudder slope upwards, following the line of the hull, it just seems to me that any kind of a hit that bends but does not break the rudder is going to cause it to jam. If it was off to one side you would be in a world of hurt.
Does anyone know of any reason why a new rudder should not be ordered with the top edge horizontal?
Does anyone know of any reason why a new rudder should not be ordered with the top edge horizontal?
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The top edge of the rudder is completely immersed when the boat is sailing at 10 - 15 deg. of heel or even when motoring on an even keel. I think John Cherubini believed it was pretty important to 'seal' the end of the rudder, because of the way the rudder top edge follows the hull and with the flaps on either side of the rudder. Whether the rudder design has basis in hydrodynamics, if it was arrived at in tank testing, etc. I couldn't say, but given the thought he put into his designs, I'll bet he thought the shape of the rudder is significant...
From the picture I posted earlier it looks like the top of the rudder (see the water line marks) is never in the water but I had not thought of what happens when heeling. Thanks - live and learn.
Jim, that picture was actually of electrical not hydraulic. And I think it was a B&G brand autopilot. So no, it did not replace the cable steering.
And here is that 1" I wrote about. I have since removed the flaps and sealed the holes. The picture is the original rudder and it waterlogged because the water could enter at the junction of the post at the top. I epoxied around the post then drilled lots of holes near the bottom while on the cradle. Lots of water drained out.
And here is that 1" I wrote about. I have since removed the flaps and sealed the holes. The picture is the original rudder and it waterlogged because the water could enter at the junction of the post at the top. I epoxied around the post then drilled lots of holes near the bottom while on the cradle. Lots of water drained out.
