The Essential Electrical Wiring Tool Kit

[centerline]

I agree with binding the wires together and having them hanging up and out of the path of any water.

If you use the liquid electrical tape it may make it harder to see the status of any crimp. Also, I know that it would be an issue if a boat was being surveyed because they couldn't see the crimp. They may assume solder was used and that has no place on a boat.

The new crimps with the adhesive shrink wrap may be more expensive, but it is the best and right way to do it. Why worry about doing it again, buy the right stuff, do it right, and do it once.

a LOT of people dont use the good teminals with the heat shrink and I fully understand why... the terminals and tools are a lot more expensive and it takes a bit longer per terminal end... but the upside is, it lasts forever...

for those that choose to use the cheaper terminals and crimpers, you will have good luck if you dip the end of the stripped wire in to some heavy silicone grease (like Dow 111) before inserting it into the terminal for crimping...

when you crimp this, it will displace any air and also keep out any water.... for a LONG time. but there is no strain relief on the wire with these cheaper terminale like there is with the heatshrink type...

 

[LloydB]

You may find a set of glow rods handy as they run straight.
Non-Contact Voltage Detector and a 120 VAC Outlet Tester for when you turn on the switch.
Digital Multimeter and an extra battery for each if needed and fuses for the meter.
White and/or yellow vinyl tape and permanent markers to make temp labels on EVERY wire as you run them(both ends.)
a note book.
pull string to add more conductors in established runs. (when you use one pull a new one in with the new conductor)
Alligator clips to temp connect wires or test leads while testing. Not a tool as such but I've often found that if there is a confirmed temporary conductor back to the source it is faster to check against that when checking for ground faults volt drops and continity.
My thought is if you are going to remove 90% of the wire for new conductors take it all out and put the 10% back in with the new. Get steel flexible rigid conduit to slide around the conductor if leaving it in while enlarging the hole to avoid the chance nicks, which would occur when leaving it in without protection.
I would suggest that you append your list that's at the begining of the thread as you find items you like.

 

[gettinthere]

Glow rods?

 

[Bad Obsession]

The reason that I am leaving 10% of the wire is that it is already brand new wire on things I added to the system already! When I am done it will be 100% new wire, except for the mast wiring, which is only 3 years old (done by the P/O and he did a good job at this). I also don't want to mess with the deck fitting where the mast wires run through the deck because it is not leaking and I don't want to change this. Still, 100% of the wiring is 3 years old or less when I am done.

Updated list:
Nice wire cutters
Wire Stripper (the good kind)
Ratchet Crimper
Heat Gun
mini butane torch
50' fish tape (to run wires)
Jewelers screw drivers
Multi Meter
Shrink tubing
Tape Measure
wire ties
Heat gun
Flash Light (also a head style flash light).
**Battery cable crimper** (Don't have this but I eventually want this)

I really like what I saw that Mainesail suggested.....a label maker and clear shrink tubing. That looks awesome and it makes sense!

 

[gettinthere]

I did very well with a hydraulic crimper for battery lugs from harbor freight

 

[Bad Obsession]

Another Updated list:

Updated list:
Nice wire cutters
Wire Stripper (the good kind)
Ratchet Crimper
Heat Gun
mini butane torch
50' fish tape (to run wires)
Jewelers screw drivers
Multi Meter
Shrink tubing
Tape Measure
wire ties
Heat gun
Flash Light (also a head style flash light).
**Battery cable crimper** (Don't have this but I eventually want this)
Label Maker

 

[Ron20324]

can cozy?

 

[Benny17441]

I would suggest a drawing template with electrical symbols so that you can draw your wiring diagram for planning before installation and for reference latter on.

 

[woodster]

clear heat shrink 1/2 and 3/4 inch size with out the glue for covering the marking tape/label maker

 

[Terry Cox]

Rewiring Boat

Why are you doing this?

 

[Bad Obsession]

I already have a wiring diagram made.

I am doing this because I am already messing with most of the electrical stuff in my boat. It is a 1989 and since I am already doing work, I am going to take care of any future problems before they start.

The previous owner moved the battery from the starboard lazzerette to the front of the boat, where the water tank use to be. He then replaced the flexible water tank with a POS plastic cheap water tank that is only 5 gallons.

I decided to replace the water tank with a 13.5 gallon flexible tank (similar to original tank) and put the battery back where it belongs. If I am moving the battery I have to change a bunch of wiring. I am also adding a second Group 27 battery to the system (replacing both batteries) to double my house bank. The second battery goes into the port lazzerette.

In the future I am also adding a fresh water pump into the boat so I can make a cockpit shower since I don't have a shower and I am not a big fan of solar showers.

Since I am already there, why not string some new wire? The boat is a smaller trailer sailor so the wiring is very basic and there isn't a ton of it.

I also think the idea of putting a tool kit idea out there will help others that need to do some rewiring. I am a big fan of having every tool I need aboard a boat. Being a cruiser means being self sufficient.

 

[Ken Cross]

Pillow, YES

use the pillow to pad the bulkhead for when you feel like beating your head against the wall.... cuz you dont want to mar the finish on the bulkhead

The pillow is actually a must for me to pad my knees and other body parts when in uncomfortable positions. I usually use throwable cushions because they are already onboard.

Padding your head is just silly against a bulkhead is just silly because it requires you to bash a lot harder.

Whoever said solder doesn't belong on boats has never looked inside any of their electronics. Each method has it's place and it's potential wrong application. You just need to know what you are doing.

Ken

 

[Bad Obsession]

I do have a soldering iron and solder aboard. I know you can also use a small butane torch to solder.

I learned that lesson from an issue on my old boat with a rudder position sensor. It would have been expensive to replace it. I opened it up and sure enough, a piece of soldered wire broke loose. I re-soldered it and it worked like a charm.

I wouldn't use it in wire to wire connections or most other things, but you are right, it does have its place on a boat....Oh yeah, and also it is used for the VHF terminals if you use that particular type of terminal.

 

[LloydB]

straight fiberglass fish rods slide through tight spaces where a fish tape may curl off of a straight path. A glow rod allows flashlight to light the length of rod to help find the other end in a dark space