THANKS FOR THE HELP

[Chris J.]

I just wanted to thank everyone for the responses I got regarding the 1981 Hunter 27'. After cleaning up my $1200 beauty, painting and re-striping the hull and toe rail, polishing the fiberglass topside, replacing the head, water pump, water heater, tuning up the rigging and cleaning the carb on the outboard motor- the boat is starting to look like it is actually in pretty good shape. She sails beautifully, and I have put about $800 into the boat so far. The more I work on it, the more it appears to be in pretty good shape. I am still working on tuning the rig, and maybe into getting a used 150% genoa for it. It currently has a 120% genoa and a main sail that are about 5 years old (with little use). She sails beautifully, (I had her in 15 to 20 kt winds - 3 - 4 foot chop, no reef with the 120% up). I will be moving on board it in about two weeks. I have a few quick questions... First, it tends to walk the stern to port when backing down, and rudder has little effect - is this common to the Hunter 27? Second, the hull holding tank pump out fitting does not have any threads on it... is that common, or have they just been worn down? Third, it has a shower drain in the deck of the head which drains to a sump below the head and forward of the main bilge well. It looks like it is coated with epoxy, and well sealed from what I can see. Is that true of the entire area under the head (I am concerned about rotting the wood coring around the compression post)?As always, any input is greatly appreciated. Chris

 

[Bill]

Chris J. a 150 Genoa for you

Chris I have a 150 that I want to get rid of. I bought a new jib and roller furler so have no need for the 150 anymore. Email me offline and we can talk about it if you are interested. I'm in Richmond so am relatively close by. I'm in the directory so you can get my email.Bill

 

[Peggie Hall/HeadMistress]

What holds the cap in the pumpout fitting?

I can't imagine that threads would have worn down, so it has to have another means of securing the cap.

 

[David Foster]

Great! Consider an Asymetric Sipinnaker

Unless you are racing around buoys, an asymetric is a better sail. And you can rig it (in a sock ready to go) at the same time as the 120 is up.Enjoy the new boat - sounds like you got a real bargain!DavidLady Lillie

 

[larry seib]

Backing a hunter 27

You now know the problem of all single screw boats with a inboard. The way the prop bites the water is a example of how a paddle wheel works on a mississippi river boat. When in reverse the stern will pull to the port side. We have the same affect when going forward,the stern will go to starbord, but we correct with the rudder. The rudder needs a flow of water over its surface to have any effect on boat direction. When going in reverse a very small amout of water passes over the rudder so the rudder is ineffective at slow speed. This happens when you have no headway forward or backwards. If you were all ready moving in reverse the rudder would have more control. What a lot of single screw sail and power inboards do is gun the engine to make sternway, put the trans in neutral, and steer. The engine may have to be put in forward to stop the backward movement, no brakes on a boat!Safe boating courses given by the Coast Guard Auxilliary was very helpful.