Thinking about buying a Loos Tension Gauge. There are a number of different ones available on the sailnet site(3/32,3/8 etc.) Does anyone know which one to buy for a 99 H260 and is it worth the $50-60.00 investment? Also are they easy to use since I have no experience with one? Thanks....
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Ed
It's easy to use.
I use the one that fits 3/16" to 9/32" wire. (The H34 has 1/4" and 9/32" standing rigging.) Find out what the standing rigging sizes are for your boat, and get the tensioning gauge that will fit them. The nice thing about tthe gauge is that it can be used statically and dynamically. Moreover, the results are repeatable. Along with the gauge you'll get a nifty diameter measuring device, and a set of instructions that will include the breaking strength of the rigging. (BTW, I paid about $38 for the one I got from Sailnet, and there's no tax or shipping charge.) ~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~
I use the one that fits 3/16" to 9/32" wire. (The H34 has 1/4" and 9/32" standing rigging.) Find out what the standing rigging sizes are for your boat, and get the tensioning gauge that will fit them. The nice thing about tthe gauge is that it can be used statically and dynamically. Moreover, the results are repeatable. Along with the gauge you'll get a nifty diameter measuring device, and a set of instructions that will include the breaking strength of the rigging. (BTW, I paid about $38 for the one I got from Sailnet, and there's no tax or shipping charge.) ~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~
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Miles
They're handy but a little overpriced (IMHO)
They are quite easy to use, but really nothing more than two strips of metal that bend at a predictable amount of force. I'm not sure why they cost so much but they can get away with it I guess. I'd highly recommend using one if you're restepping your mast, replacing rigging, or something like that. Once you've set the tension it really shouldn't change that much unless something goes seriously wrong. It would be great to split the cost with a friend or borrow one or something like that since you probably won't use it all that often.
They are quite easy to use, but really nothing more than two strips of metal that bend at a predictable amount of force. I'm not sure why they cost so much but they can get away with it I guess. I'd highly recommend using one if you're restepping your mast, replacing rigging, or something like that. Once you've set the tension it really shouldn't change that much unless something goes seriously wrong. It would be great to split the cost with a friend or borrow one or something like that since you probably won't use it all that often.
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Jim Covey
Check out the LOS90
Larry, I agree that having a tension gauge is nice and very easy to use. I think the $50-$60 range you are refering to is the "Professional" model. Check out the LOS90 which is more like $30. It's really all you need for setting up your rig. Jim
Larry, I agree that having a tension gauge is nice and very easy to use. I think the $50-$60 range you are refering to is the "Professional" model. Check out the LOS90 which is more like $30. It's really all you need for setting up your rig. Jim
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Crazy Dave Condon
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Mark
Do you need a gauge?
We put our mast up and pull it down every weekend. What we do not do is adjust the rigging apart from check it from time to time to make sure it "feels right". The rigging is set with the correct rake (forestay adjustment) and is not altered. The shrouds are wound up as tight as we feel is correct but most importantly the shrouds are at the max tension so as to still enable the forestay to connect on the bow without having to pull really hard on the mainsheet. I might say that when I pull down the jib halyard with the mainsheet there is quite a lot of pressure and uses up almost my full strength. The lee shrouds do go a little slack in strong winds but I am not concerned at all. Your thoughts Dave??
We put our mast up and pull it down every weekend. What we do not do is adjust the rigging apart from check it from time to time to make sure it "feels right". The rigging is set with the correct rake (forestay adjustment) and is not altered. The shrouds are wound up as tight as we feel is correct but most importantly the shrouds are at the max tension so as to still enable the forestay to connect on the bow without having to pull really hard on the mainsheet. I might say that when I pull down the jib halyard with the mainsheet there is quite a lot of pressure and uses up almost my full strength. The lee shrouds do go a little slack in strong winds but I am not concerned at all. Your thoughts Dave??
You're on the right track Mark, but...
Don't allow your lee shrouds to go slack. That means the mast is moving which can shock load the rig in waves or gusts. Stresses due to shock loads can be twice as high as the static loads under sail, which in turn are higher than the static loads (rig tension) you dialed in at the dock. Also, if the standing rigging wire is in less than perfect condition, its breaking strength will be lower than expected. Higher stresses + lower strength = potential rig failure. Tighten the turnbuckles until you have no slack in the leeward shrouds when going to weather in 18 to 20 kts of wind. After that it's probably a good idea to tie in your first reef. Happy sailing. Peter H23 "Raven"
Don't allow your lee shrouds to go slack. That means the mast is moving which can shock load the rig in waves or gusts. Stresses due to shock loads can be twice as high as the static loads under sail, which in turn are higher than the static loads (rig tension) you dialed in at the dock. Also, if the standing rigging wire is in less than perfect condition, its breaking strength will be lower than expected. Higher stresses + lower strength = potential rig failure. Tighten the turnbuckles until you have no slack in the leeward shrouds when going to weather in 18 to 20 kts of wind. After that it's probably a good idea to tie in your first reef. Happy sailing. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Mark
Yes I agree Peter but!
Surely Hunter do not expect that every time the mast is stepped you have to jump over the side and tighten the shrouds. Actually in the manual it states that once set they should be OK for the year. They (Hunter) knowing forwell that the masts on these little beuties go up and down a fair bit in a season for not all people leave their yachts in the water must have accounted for this in their calculations. See if you tighten up the shrouds to the degree using a loos guage then there is no way that you will get the pin out of the forestay. So I figure the tension on our 260 is perhaps to a degree a compromise however it is workable.
Surely Hunter do not expect that every time the mast is stepped you have to jump over the side and tighten the shrouds. Actually in the manual it states that once set they should be OK for the year. They (Hunter) knowing forwell that the masts on these little beuties go up and down a fair bit in a season for not all people leave their yachts in the water must have accounted for this in their calculations. See if you tighten up the shrouds to the degree using a loos guage then there is no way that you will get the pin out of the forestay. So I figure the tension on our 260 is perhaps to a degree a compromise however it is workable.
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Chuck
Our tension solution
What I do is to adjust the tension using a Loo's gauge then note the distance from the turnbuckle center body to the edge og the threads. This should be suffient to loosen the buckles and tighten them again. Also, you could count the turns required from a reference point but I don't have the patience for that! /Chuck S/V Windsongs H23
What I do is to adjust the tension using a Loo's gauge then note the distance from the turnbuckle center body to the edge og the threads. This should be suffient to loosen the buckles and tighten them again. Also, you could count the turns required from a reference point but I don't have the patience for that! /Chuck S/V Windsongs H23
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David Foster
No slack!
A compromise is OK versus a theoretical tension - X% of breaking strength for instance. But (as already explained) leeward slack is not OK. If the mast can move (tension free) even a little bit while sailing you are really putting your rig at risk. David Lady Lillie
A compromise is OK versus a theoretical tension - X% of breaking strength for instance. But (as already explained) leeward slack is not OK. If the mast can move (tension free) even a little bit while sailing you are really putting your rig at risk. David Lady Lillie
I have the same problem Mark
The turnbuckles have to be loosened a bit to raise the mast. It's a royal pain, and mine are on the side decks where I can reach them! What I did was mark the five turnbuckles (forestay plus four shrouds with enamel paint when they were set (cheap nail polish works too). That way I can find the exact setting for each turnbuckle every time. Also, the mast raising rig allows me to pull the jib halyard down hard so I can insert the forestay turnbuckle screw and tighten it most of the way by hand. A turn or two after that and it's done. Then I release the jib halyard tension. Happy sailing. Peter H23 "Raven"
The turnbuckles have to be loosened a bit to raise the mast. It's a royal pain, and mine are on the side decks where I can reach them! What I did was mark the five turnbuckles (forestay plus four shrouds with enamel paint when they were set (cheap nail polish works too). That way I can find the exact setting for each turnbuckle every time. Also, the mast raising rig allows me to pull the jib halyard down hard so I can insert the forestay turnbuckle screw and tighten it most of the way by hand. A turn or two after that and it's done. Then I release the jib halyard tension. Happy sailing. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Jim Loats
Check it out.
Mark, Like you, I have sailed my H26 the last few years with shrouds adjusted exactly as you describe. But I got the guage and tighted up the stays this year, only to 400# on each stay, so far. What a difference. The boat probably sails better. But it feels really solid. It used to feel a little sloppy and I had gotten used to it. So check it out. Use Dave's method or buy the guage and give it a try one time. See what you think. I bet you'll decide that taking the time to put the extra turns on the turn buckles each time is worth it. Question to the trailoring gang: Do you think that one could leave the lower shrowds at full tension and only have to loosen/tighten the uppers? (I use a slip so won't know about this until we pull out for the mid season trip to another lake.) Jim S/V Grizzly Bear
Mark, Like you, I have sailed my H26 the last few years with shrouds adjusted exactly as you describe. But I got the guage and tighted up the stays this year, only to 400# on each stay, so far. What a difference. The boat probably sails better. But it feels really solid. It used to feel a little sloppy and I had gotten used to it. So check it out. Use Dave's method or buy the guage and give it a try one time. See what you think. I bet you'll decide that taking the time to put the extra turns on the turn buckles each time is worth it. Question to the trailoring gang: Do you think that one could leave the lower shrowds at full tension and only have to loosen/tighten the uppers? (I use a slip so won't know about this until we pull out for the mid season trip to another lake.) Jim S/V Grizzly Bear
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Ron Mehringer
Tighten 'em up
What I thought was resonably tight proved to be far off from the recommended numbers. Peformance improved with the rig properly tightened (actually I stay a little shy of the recommendations on both uppers and lowers). But my boat gets launched at the beginning of the season and stays in until the fall. Can't imagine tensioning the rig if I trailer sailed. I wish the turnbuckles could have some sort of ratchet wrench mechanism installed to make the process quicker and easier. Any ideas. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
What I thought was resonably tight proved to be far off from the recommended numbers. Peformance improved with the rig properly tightened (actually I stay a little shy of the recommendations on both uppers and lowers). But my boat gets launched at the beginning of the season and stays in until the fall. Can't imagine tensioning the rig if I trailer sailed. I wish the turnbuckles could have some sort of ratchet wrench mechanism installed to make the process quicker and easier. Any ideas. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
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Rick Engel
Ron: What are your #s?
Ron: I am going to put our boat back in our slip in a couple of weeks. At the end of last season, I set my lower shrouds at 625 lbs & the uppers at 675 lbs. I was shocked at the difference in performance - I had them set before at about 500 & 550. What are your numbers? By the way, I have the forestay set at the shortest length possible to rake my mast forward. This seems to correct excessive weather helm in stronger winds. There seems to be no easy way to adjust the standing rigging when stepping the mast other than to loosen the shrouds on one side of the boat. I was wondering if a strap rachet tool (I forget the official name) from the local hardware store would work on the turnbuckle along with a good pair of vice grips. Cheers, Rick
Ron: I am going to put our boat back in our slip in a couple of weeks. At the end of last season, I set my lower shrouds at 625 lbs & the uppers at 675 lbs. I was shocked at the difference in performance - I had them set before at about 500 & 550. What are your numbers? By the way, I have the forestay set at the shortest length possible to rake my mast forward. This seems to correct excessive weather helm in stronger winds. There seems to be no easy way to adjust the standing rigging when stepping the mast other than to loosen the shrouds on one side of the boat. I was wondering if a strap rachet tool (I forget the official name) from the local hardware store would work on the turnbuckle along with a good pair of vice grips. Cheers, Rick
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crazy dave
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Mark
Yes pleeeeeeeeeeeease
If you wouldn't mind Dave for it is good to refresh and of course we all treat your advice as gospell!! Regards from the wild West Mark
If you wouldn't mind Dave for it is good to refresh and of course we all treat your advice as gospell!! Regards from the wild West Mark
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Dave
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Ed
From the Brion Toss video...
He tensions the rigging statically, but does the final rig tuning while sailing. On a broad reach, the lee shrouds are tightened till they have no slack. On the return trip, the process is repeated for the other side. Back at the dock, the rig tension is checked again, and is adjusted to the highest amount measured, thus making each respective set the same. ~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~
He tensions the rigging statically, but does the final rig tuning while sailing. On a broad reach, the lee shrouds are tightened till they have no slack. On the return trip, the process is repeated for the other side. Back at the dock, the rig tension is checked again, and is adjusted to the highest amount measured, thus making each respective set the same. ~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~
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