Teak Veneer Hull Liner

[zds]

I finally removed the old carpet hull liner in the aft berth on my 1986 Hunter 34. Behind it I found the bare fiberglass of the hull, and lots of old adhesive. I plan to cover it with something - it's just a question of what.

Anyone have any experience with using teak veneer for a hull liner? I'd stick it to the hull with contact cement and varnish it to match the teak interior. I figure 22 mil will smooth out the fiberglass I realize the final result will be dark.

The other option I'm considering is FRP, because it's a nice clean white.

Can anyone tell me if either of these is a bad idea?

 

[Steve Dion]

We had a 1987 H'31 and had the same "mouse" cloth on the inside of the hull. My thoughts were to epoxy strips of plywood to the hull and place some insulation between the strips. Then apply wood battens (ash or some other light wood) to the strips. This would help insulate the area and provide a very custom look too.

I was actually looking for some s.s. brads that could be used with my nail gun to attach the battens. If that did not work, I would have considered screws or glue.

Sold the boat, so I never got around to doing that.

 

[zds]

Well, I thought about wood on strips (tongue and groove cedar was the best competitor). But it seems the hard way to go. I'm also not that confident that they'll stick well...

FRP is the easy option, and has the advantage of brightening up the space. But teak would make for a really great look!

 

[Steve Dion]

ZDS: H & L Marine in Rancho Domiguez, CA will mill you battens to the size you want. They will also radius the edges so you would have a very professional looking finish. If you use a little stain, you probably will not be able to tell what type of wood that it is.

I think a S.S. brad and a spot of glue is good to go.

 

[Missinglink]

84 Hunter 31 V-Berth remodel I just ripped out the old carpet on the walls of the V-Berth that Hunter had installed with 1/2" foam insulation and vinyl flooring.Glued it all in with Vinyl floring adhesive. Here are some pictures;http://picasaweb.google.com/malink27...eat=directlink

 

[Missinglink]

Sorry, old link here is the correct one

http://picasaweb.google.com/malink274/1984Hunter31VBerthRemodel?feat=directlink

 

[zds]

1/2" foam insulation and vinyl flooring.[/url]

Hey, that looks nice and is a great idea! I hadn't thought of using flooring materials but it makes a lot of sense.

 

[Paul F]

Used Bamboo flooring to cover the walls. It worked well, here is a link.
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...7&cat_id=28&aid=6232&page=article&mn=33_77-83
Today I might consider Konecto water-proof flooring. There are many options, here is one in teak,
http://www.konectousa.com/products_plank.html?productTitle=addison&collection=Addison Collection

 

[Ross]

Before you try veneer or FRP panels, try to fit cardboard squares to the curve of the hull. You will have the same problems with fit as the map makers have with the earth.

 

[SeaRanch]

I had a H31 1987 and my father manufactured fiberglass boats for 15 years and I had the "pleasure" of working in the plant for 10 years during the 60's and 70's.
A fiberglass boat manufacturer has to determine just how much "flex" (or no flex) it is going to allow and where in the hull and deck to determine how much and what kind of fiberglass material it is going to use.
The hull of my H31 had quite a lot of "flex" in the hull in the front V berth and port aft quarter berth, because these were large areas where there was not cabintry built against the hull. During a passage my son could not sleep in the port aft quarter berth because the hull flexing kept him awake. That is one reason some boat manufacturers cover the hull in some locations with "carpet" not a "hard" material, and yes it is cheaper than making the hull thicker or adding a fiiberglass "interliner".

I think it would be safe to say that an '80's H34 was built like an '80's H31, therefore you might want to consider using a flexible material not wooden battens covered with wooden planks. The foam (flexible foam not "hard" foam) and vinyl looked great, which is the way I would have gone, but like Steve I moved up instead.

Good Luck.
Bill

 

[rpwillia]

Steve, MissingLink and Paul

What has you experience been over time with flexing and the material you applied? If it is fine, that seems to answer the question. My 310 has factory installed wood which looks great and I have not noticed any problem.

 

[Joe]

Sorry, but I don't care for the bamboo look in a boat... nor would I consider laying up a big solid piece of FRP or laminated flooring.

The project articles I have seen on this subject in Sail or Cruising World all use vertical stringers glued to the the hull about 12 inches apart, with thin 1 or 2 inch battens screwed to them horizontallly. This method will tolerate the hull flex.. The battens would not interlock you see... and also allow you to insert a layer of insulation in the space between the hull and the battens. The space also lets you run cables and wires out of sight... and still have access because the battens are removable.

That said, I don't really have problem with a simple vinyl liner, or even the carpet treatment. I am just not a fan of laminated wood on the walls. I keep thinking "dance floor"

 

[zds]

I'm with you Joe - I'm really warming to the simple vinyl flooring (with or without some type of foam liner). Even more so if I can find an off-white that will match the nearby interior gelcoat.

 

[Mike G.]

Marine Grade Teak Laminate Plywood

I replaced my headliner on my Pearson 323 last year with Marine Grade 1/8" Teak Laminate Plywood It looks fabulous. Probably would look great for your application. I put 3 coats of gloss polyuerethane on the face. Then, decided to put two coats on the back and edges for protection from water leaks. Good thing I did! One of the overhead hatches sprung a leak - No damage.

My only regret is that I didn't go a bit thicker - possibly to 3/16". I wanted to make sure that the panels wood flex to the curve in the ceiling, but it is a bit thin.

Bought them from Boulter Plywood in Somerville, MA. About $96/ sheet which is a bit less than my original plan of using Sailrite headliner material.

Mike

 

[BobM]

Looks great

Sorry, old link here is the correct one

http://picasaweb.google.com/malink274/1984Hunter31VBerthRemodel?feat=directlink

Looks great and a leak won't stain the material. Cool.

 

[caguy]

I was at the Luger today and did a major clean out. I posted on another thread that I found some 3.375'' x 5/8'' x 12' redwood at Home Depot. After looking at the mahogany that is used in the boat the redwood should compliment it well. If I split them with a band saw they should end up a little more that 1/4'' thick. Still not sure what to use overhead. The salon is fairly flat, but the v-berth has some contours that may pose a challenge.

 

[AXEL]

Teak veneer is very expensive ($80 - $120 for 4' x 8'). In addition it's pretty rigid, will not conform to the shap of the hull. If you do go this way I would suggest that you make up sheets of plywood with the veneer attached to it. Also, you do not want ANY air bubbles under the veneer. I have worked with teak veneer, air bubbles may pop up a month of so later if you do not apply properly.