Teak trim refinishing questions

[PotomacDaysailer]

I want to refinish the teak wood trim in the cockpit. Some has old finish still and some is bare. The wood is usually covered from sun exposure.
I want to avoid stickiness and drips/spills, and have a nice deep rich shine...
What products and methods are best? What weather do I want ideally? What weather is acceptable if ideal is unattainable in the near future? Typically in July/August we have highs upper 90s, lows mid-80s, and often 20 kts south wind but our cove is protected and generally pretty still - chance of rain low but occasional pop-up t-storms can rain out very heavily.
I have a quart can of Watco Teak Oil that came with the boat, unopened, no telling how old but probably less than 5 years.
I'm sure plenty of you have lots of experience and I'd appreciate your advice!
Thanks...

 

[FastOlson]

There are about 8 (minimum) correct answers to your question.

A neighbor boat just did his teak hand rails with the clear version of Cetol. Looks almost as good as traditional varnish. He did take all the old remaining finish off with a sander first. he gets about 6 months before it starts to degrade. This is better than typical varnish at our latitude (approx. 46).

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Well, you are talking about teak oil, not varnish, so I would guess that you can be far less picky about the application conditions. These instructions seem reasonable. I think I would wait for weather below 90 degrees.
https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/D...lish/CBG/Watco/WAT-11_Watco_Teak_Oil_TDS.ashx

 

[Chris Patterson]

The spring and the fall is the best time to do work like that. Are you going to put that oil on it as you indicated, or are you going to put it in high varnish?

 

[NotCook]

If you are looking for a deep shine, to me that sounds like varnish. These forums are full of proponents for a lot of various products, like teak oil, Cetol, traditional varnish, etc. Personally, we use Epifanes High Gloss varnish. If you go varnish, you want to get the wood down to clean, smooth dry teak. then basically follow the instructions on the can. First coat is diluted 50% with mineral spirits. On that first application it will soak right in and you will see the rich color. Subsequent coats you will see the shine develop. lightly sand between coats to take off the fur and bumps. Each coat gets a deeper shine. You'll want at least 6 coats, probably 8+, depending on the look you are going for.

* Wipe clean with mineral spirits after the initial sanding, to remove dust. This will also show you the color you can expect
* Carefully follow the thinning instructions
* Lightly sand between coats
* Opt for the cooler temps - like low 80's
* Avoid direct sunlight so it doesn't dry the varnish too fast. If necessary, just apply what you can each early morning

Here's what you can expect from this method:

 

[CherylZZ]

More Questions - looking to add to this conversation.
I have an older Horizon Cat purchased three summers ago. The dealer re-detailed everything it was pristine. I would like to work on the teak this spring as I see breaks and when wet is it more apparent. I am looking for the best technique to get back to pristine. I also have some wear from the anchor chain on the bow pulpit teak. Should I sand or use solvent? Should I go to bare wood and start over, or can I sand and add more finishing material. Finally, do I need to find out what was used before? She is a beautiful little pocket cruiser who was left in a barn for years and relating to a well-preserved gal and I would like to keep it that way. I have some other questions about a chip in the gel coat below the water line for failure of her helmswoman to recognize the need to make an adjustment sooner.

 

[jrussnogle]

I'm a fan of Honey Teak by Fabula. Easy application, lasts longer than traditional varnishes. Ranked favorably by Practical Sailor.

 

[Dalliance]

I'm a fan of Honey Teak by Fabula. Easy application, lasts longer than traditional varnishes. Ranked favorably by Practical Sailor.

I have been using the Signature Honey Teak by Fabula also. It’s formulated for tropical climates, so up here in the north, being in covered storage half the year, it lasts way longer than anything else. Application is easy, though the instructions can be a little daunting at first, but because it’s catalized, you can put on 4 to 6 coats in a single day with no sanding between coats.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

What about tung oil like the Navy used on the old ships

 

[JRacer]

What about tung oil like the Navy used on the old ships

That's what I use. "Pure Tung Oil". Get it at Rockler.com Apply once a season, sometimes twice if I feel ambitious.

 

[weinie]

If you are looking for a deep shine, to me that sounds like varnish. These forums are full of proponents for a lot of various products, like teak oil, Cetol, traditional varnish, etc. Personally, we use Epifanes High Gloss varnish. If you go varnish, you want to get the wood down to clean, smooth dry teak. then basically follow the instructions on the can. First coat is diluted 50% with mineral spirits. On that first application it will soak right in and you will see the rich color. Subsequent coats you will see the shine develop. lightly sand between coats to take off the fur and bumps. Each coat gets a deeper shine. You'll want at least 6 coats, probably 8+, depending on the look you are going for.

* Wipe clean with mineral spirits after the initial sanding, to remove dust. This will also show you the color you can expect
* Carefully follow the thinning instructions
* Lightly sand between coats
* Opt for the cooler temps - like low 80's
* Avoid direct sunlight so it doesn't dry the varnish too fast. If necessary, just apply what you can each early morning

Here's what you can expect from this method:
View attachment 153479

View attachment 153481

View attachment 153482

wow! beautiful boat!
moar pics please!!!

 

[NotCook]

I also have some wear from the anchor chain on the bow pulpit teak. Should I sand or use solvent? Should I go to bare wood and start over, or can I sand and add more finishing material. Finally, do I need to find out what was used before?

Hi Cheryl, if it were me, I'd probably start with sanding just the area that is the problem, and start building up the layers of varnish there, and see how it turns out. I routinely repair areas that have gone bad this way. Usually it works out fine. It might not work as well on something like a large smooth table top, but generally I find it works ok. I personally would not use a solvent or paint remover.

Regarding what is already there, I think I would start with a light sand, and apply your varnish over it and see how it does. It will either stick or it won't I guess. You could always sand it back down.

Varnishing transforms beautiful wood - good luck with your project!

 

[Allowishish]

I use lemon oil inside and out.
yes outside I have to apply more frequently, but I enjoy the process.

It is a quick wipe down once a month or so.

 

[nightowle]

After having gone the sanding, cetol with many layers. Re-sanding at a later date and cetol again.....over and over again; I've moved on to teak oil. Easy to do several coats in one day, lasts as long as cetol and way easier to touch up when needed. It can be applied in almost any weather temperature. I'm now an oil guy.....NOT varnish. Have used tung oil with satisfaction, but lately been using Daly's. I think the oil you have on hand will be fine.

 

[Mark Maulden]

Wow!! Not experiencing your issues with Cetol. Sanded down to bare wood and cetol application spring and fall for several yrs..no sanding in between. Instead of sanding just a scrub with white scotchbrite and a coat. Now just one coat in the fall. No issues!

 

[jssailem]

For @NotCook’s method and recommendation of Epifanes High Gloss.
I was impressed with the bright work on the Morris I inspected at the Boat Show

I know the photo does not do justice to the depth of shine in this job. It was a big presentation. Epifanes High Gloss Was the product used to protect this bright work.

@CherylZZ maintaining pristine teak between the bow and a windlass on the bow is a lost cause. The boats I saw in Annapolis all had stainless steel sheets over the high cost decks to absorb the chain damage that just happens. It might be a consideration for your boat.
Then you can focus your attention over the rest of the boat that is not exposed to repetitive damage opportunities.

 

[Knot Stressin']

I just restored the wood on my Chrysler. All I did is sand it down, apply a coat of Minwax (just happened to have it in the garage from another project), and then a couple coats of polyurethane. I love the look of a fresh coat of polyurethane. The only draw back is, I believe it it gets too much sun it will start to dry out and flake off. But my boat isnt in the direct sun all that much as it sits on its trailer in the side yard covered, unless we are actually sailing.
I am definitely a huge fan of nice looking wood work on boats! I prefer it to these ultra fancy boats with little to no wood. I guess I am a sucker for the older stuff. As you can probably tell, my wife and I like the real dark wood on our boat.

 

[Monty VM]

I keep it pretty simple. I scuff sand and apply oil. if your wood has good color you can also use cetol. I use it on mahogany but some use it on teak.

 

[JetLaggedChef]

I've been using teak oil on my exterior teak. Here in Florida, it only lasts a few months, but it's easy to wipe down and apply another coat or two. On my 25 foot boat with fairly minimal teak, it only takes about 15 minutes and it looks great again.

I prefer the look of really high gloss varnish, but after stripping and re-varnishing all the interior teak, I can't imagine trying to keep up with that on the outside.