I am in the process of refinishing the teak cockpit table on my C-30 and am wondering about applying a finish to it. I have had great results from using polyurethane on the bilge boards below, and wonder if this is an appropriate finish for the table? The polyurethane has a UV inhibitor and the only time the table is exposed to sunlight is when the wheel is uncovered. I know how much everyone prefers Cetol for this purpose, Cetol just does not appeal to me.
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Doug T.
Teak oil
I personally like the look of teak oil best. That's what we use for the inside of the boat. If the table is covered 95% of the time, perhaps that would work best? You might have to "refinish" it a couple of times each season, but it only takes minutes to clean and refinish with teak oil.
I personally like the look of teak oil best. That's what we use for the inside of the boat. If the table is covered 95% of the time, perhaps that would work best? You might have to "refinish" it a couple of times each season, but it only takes minutes to clean and refinish with teak oil.
or Varnish
Mark: If you like Poly or Varnish for this purpose it should be fine. It is not like other exposed teak that has the effects of weather 24 x 365. If you cover the table or remove it from the pedestal it will last for many years without needing to refinish it.
Mark: If you like Poly or Varnish for this purpose it should be fine. It is not like other exposed teak that has the effects of weather 24 x 365. If you cover the table or remove it from the pedestal it will last for many years without needing to refinish it.
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Bob Todd
I did mine in Cetol...
Easy to use, looks great, and I've not had any problems with other exposed teak. Just a light touch-up in the spring. Cheers, Bob
Easy to use, looks great, and I've not had any problems with other exposed teak. Just a light touch-up in the spring. Cheers, Bob
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Bob Howie
Oh, no! Not Varnish!!!
Actually, if you don't know how to varnish, then varnishing the cockpit table is a good way to learn. I recommend Interlux Schooner #96. Secret is great prep, following application with preferably a 100% natural bristle brush -- I recommend Badger hair, about $25 for a good 2" brush -- and about 10 coats on one side at a time with light sanding using 360 grit paper between each coat. You will have a spectacular look that my good friend Mr. Dion is absolutely correct in saying it will last a long time and look great if you cover it when not in use. Otherwise, Cetol is also a favorite of mine, doesn't require the prep work varnish requires and looks pretty good. Two ways to go; neither one a bad way in my opinion.
Actually, if you don't know how to varnish, then varnishing the cockpit table is a good way to learn. I recommend Interlux Schooner #96. Secret is great prep, following application with preferably a 100% natural bristle brush -- I recommend Badger hair, about $25 for a good 2" brush -- and about 10 coats on one side at a time with light sanding using 360 grit paper between each coat. You will have a spectacular look that my good friend Mr. Dion is absolutely correct in saying it will last a long time and look great if you cover it when not in use. Otherwise, Cetol is also a favorite of mine, doesn't require the prep work varnish requires and looks pretty good. Two ways to go; neither one a bad way in my opinion.
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Jbalber
I used to like the look of varnish, but hated the maintenance in two years. I've gone to oiling my teak. I use an equal mixture of linseed oil and turpentine. I oil twice a season. jbalber2000@yahoo.com
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Rob R.
If it is covered...
just about anything will do for quite a while. I would steer you away from ployurethane strongly. It costs the same as varnish, but lasts less than half as long. I tested it by applying it to identical pieces of teak on my boat, and it did very poorly. I gotta agree with Steve et al - nothin' beats varnish when it comes to looks, and believe me, people will be looking at that table. Good Luck Rob
just about anything will do for quite a while. I would steer you away from ployurethane strongly. It costs the same as varnish, but lasts less than half as long. I tested it by applying it to identical pieces of teak on my boat, and it did very poorly. I gotta agree with Steve et al - nothin' beats varnish when it comes to looks, and believe me, people will be looking at that table. Good Luck Rob
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LaDonna Bubak - Catalina Owners
Varnish will last forever
If you keep it covered or stowed below when not in use, a good varnish job (such as Bob Howie described - though I get fantastic results with $1 foam brushes) will last just about forever! LaDonna
If you keep it covered or stowed below when not in use, a good varnish job (such as Bob Howie described - though I get fantastic results with $1 foam brushes) will last just about forever! LaDonna
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Lex
Cetol is the way to go
I have been finishing fine wood work for over 20 years. I have to agree with you that the appearance of a polyurethane finish is much more appealing than Cetol. However, Cetol is a much more durable and forgiving finish than polyurethane. If you get a nick in polyurethane than the lest amount of moisture will cause it to start peeling. Cetol is alot thinner and penetrates the wood much better. I have not personally used the new "High gloss" product by Cetol but if it were mine, I would no doubt use the Cetol. Good luck.
I have been finishing fine wood work for over 20 years. I have to agree with you that the appearance of a polyurethane finish is much more appealing than Cetol. However, Cetol is a much more durable and forgiving finish than polyurethane. If you get a nick in polyurethane than the lest amount of moisture will cause it to start peeling. Cetol is alot thinner and penetrates the wood much better. I have not personally used the new "High gloss" product by Cetol but if it were mine, I would no doubt use the Cetol. Good luck.
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Bob Howie
Cetol Gloss
I used Cetol Gloss -- once -- and did it absolutely according to manuf.'s spec and the damn stuff pops right off after about 8 months. It starts to bubble up and then it kinda detaches itself from the Cetol underneath it, which isn't affected by the "delaminating" gloss overcoat. It's pretty funny actually because the overcoat kinda comes off in a sheet. Regular Cetol is great stuff and holds up well, covered or uncovered. Cetol Gloss is history aboard my boat.
I used Cetol Gloss -- once -- and did it absolutely according to manuf.'s spec and the damn stuff pops right off after about 8 months. It starts to bubble up and then it kinda detaches itself from the Cetol underneath it, which isn't affected by the "delaminating" gloss overcoat. It's pretty funny actually because the overcoat kinda comes off in a sheet. Regular Cetol is great stuff and holds up well, covered or uncovered. Cetol Gloss is history aboard my boat.
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Bob Howie
Armada MC2000
This is interesting stuff and I have it on the swim platform of my boat and the handrails topside. It cures in the presence of moisture and you can do one hour between coats without sanding. A little sanding doesn't hurt, tho, and, so far, it's holding up well in sunlight. It is clear, so no color like Cetol or varnish. Works pretty good, too. Some of the Varnish Purists are still driving themselves crazy trying to figure out what I varnished and what I used MC2000 on. It's worth looking at if anyone is interested.
This is interesting stuff and I have it on the swim platform of my boat and the handrails topside. It cures in the presence of moisture and you can do one hour between coats without sanding. A little sanding doesn't hurt, tho, and, so far, it's holding up well in sunlight. It is clear, so no color like Cetol or varnish. Works pretty good, too. Some of the Varnish Purists are still driving themselves crazy trying to figure out what I varnished and what I used MC2000 on. It's worth looking at if anyone is interested.
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Jim Anzalone
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