Teak toerail on a Pearson 36-2: Need help on minor repair

[JPS27]

I need to fix some rotted wood on my Pearson 36-2 ive had for 2 years. Been working on little improvements during that time, tracking down leaks etc. I just noticed a little rot this weekend when I grabbed that rail and my thumb pressed into the wood. I scraped out all the wet wood as best i could. The void is about 2”long x 3/4” deep x 1”high and encompassed a toerail bolt.

Two questions: How might you go about fixing this? Shape and patch in a new piece of teak, sand away, then varnish?
And can any P 36-2 owners tell me if that chock is secured with a lag bolt or a thru bolt? I thought I might take that off and rebed it. Thank you!
Jay

 

[PaulK]

No filler or goop is going to match the teak rail. You will always notice it if you try tixing it with any of that stuff. It looks like you need to fill it in with a teak dutchman. The hard part is going to be cleaning up the damaged area so you can slide a well-fitting piece of teak into the space. You may need a small, very sharp chisel for a Father's Day present.

 

[dmax]

What PaulK says or you could trim it off nicely and call it a day. Looks like water wants to exit there anyway so make it look like a purposeful drain.

 

[shemandr]

I do think the rot started from moisture held against the wood and the metal hardware there - which probably wasn't sealed. Send the water overboard if you can't catch a toe in there.

 

[garymalmgren]

Hi Jay
I hope that is all the rot that you have.
First thing to do is to chop it out.
I would then round the top off and seal it.
If you like a symmetric look, do the same to the other side.
That looks like an area where water collects so having a scupper (the removed piece) would be an improvement.
If the rot continues, follow it.
Gary

 

[jssailem]

The piece while not structural is prone to moisture intrusion. Certainly there has been rot on the end. Along the top of the rail there appear to be cracks that probably are contributing to moisture getting into the rail.

One option is to remove the rail and patch the places that need it. Total. Boat makes an epoxy wood fix.
FIXWOOD WOOD REPAIR EPOXY PUTTY

SKU: 512884​

Epoxy putty for high-strength, 100% waterproof, permanent repairs to rotted or damaged wood.​

I have used it on my hand rails. It can be sanded and stained. You will need to remove the rotted wood. You might be able to patch it in place, but doubt it will las very long. How long do you plan to own the Boat?

While you have the rail off, you could try to make a replacement using the original as a guide. That is what would happen at one of the ship building shops. They would charge probably the value of the boat to create a replacement. But they are in it to make the boat look pristine not just sail/cruise ready.

 

[JPS27]

Thanks for all the helpful advice. I will contemplate this and also make sure the entire toerail (everywhere else is properly sealed. The port side at the same place is solid as a rock. But I do need to attend to the rail in terms of varnishing. (I like varnish, and enjoy varnishing, which is weird I know).

I have removed all the rot that that appears to exist without going at it with a chisel. Next, I will 'de-bung' and take out that last screw to make sure all rot is cleaned out. Once I know where unaffected teak starts I'll consider my options.

Again, I appreciate all the advice to help me think this through. Jay

 

[william24424]

Can you live with a line? I did a similar repair, cleaned out area with dremel, cut solid piece of scrap teak and placed/pushed/trimmed/swore at piece until it fit tight, epoxied the piece in place, then when dry... I sanded entire rail, and varnished..... and nobody but myself notices the epoxy line between two pieces..... perhaps a scupper is a good idea too... good luck.

 

[JPS27]

Can you live with a line? I did a similar repair, cleaned out area with dremel, cut solid piece of scrap teak and placed/pushed/trimmed/swore at piece until it fit tight, epoxied the piece in place, then when dry... I sanded entire rail, and varnished..... and nobody but myself notices the epoxy line between two pieces..... perhaps a scupper is a good idea too... good luck.

This issue is at aft end of the toerail practically in line with the helm seat. So, no, no one will notice but me. My preferred option--without too much thinking about it yet and without being 100% sure of the extent of the rot removal -- would be the teak insert and shorten it to allow water egress. The design doesn't allow for easy egress of the last bit of water that miss the scupper forward of this point and can't flow over the little lip where water is supposed to flow off the back. There's also no danger of toes catching etc etc because it's just not a place where one climbs with the chocks, sterm rail, bimini etc. But like I said, I need to study it and work on it a bit more. Thanks for the ideas.

 

[dLj]

If you do shorten it to create a scupper, you may want to think about some kind of termination on that wood end grain. It could be some kind of metal or fiberglass or epoxy just something that the water runs out without touching that end grain. Might be too much, but would help keep that wood in good shape over many years to come.

dh

 

[JPS27]

Here's a follow up question. I learned more about my releatively new to me boat. the bolts on the toerail are through bolted. I don't know why but I figured the were tapped in. The underside is covered by a 36' long plastic cover with many screws to unscrew. I'm not going to deal with that until the next haul which is some time from now. I just hauled out and 4 months. Not doing that again for a while.

In the interim, thoughts filling that gap with wood filler with the rail in place. Jssailem offered one product. Seems doing something is better than doing nothing until I can take care of it right. thanks.

 

[dlochner]

In the interim, thoughts filling that gap with wood filler with the rail in place. Jssailem offered one product. Seems doing something is better than doing nothing until I can take care of it right. thanks.

Doing this is making more work for your self, because it will have to be removed eventually. Teak is rot resistant, not rot proof. The problem is water is getting to the end grain of the wood and wicking up. this causes rot from the inside out. The visible exterior rot is only the beginning of the story. The cause is water getting trapped between the metal fitting and the end of the rail. The easiest way to reduce this problem is to trim a ¼" or so of the wood from the end. This will allow water to drain off the side deck and the end grain to dry out. Use an oscillating tool or a Japanese saw.

The final repair will involve removing all the rotted wood and then a little more to ensure you have removed all the rot as the initial stages of rot may not be visible. Then cut and shape a new piece of teak to install with a scarf joint and waterproof glue or epoxy. As @garymalmgren suggests, leaving a way for water to drain away is essential, it can either be a good gap between the metal fitting and the end or a cutaway at the bottom.