Teak toe cap splitting below deck cleats

justsomeguy · Dec 8, 2014

Can't point you to a source, but you might want to think "metric" when addressing this problem.

Good luck.

Captn TJ · Dec 8, 2014

Jim F said:
The teak below the forward deck cleat has split. I believe it's because of some sort of corrosion expansion of the threaded studs that are used to mount the Deck Cleat. does any one have experience with this? I initially thought that I could just replace the cleats and Clamp & Glue the teak but I cannot find the correct size cleats. all the Shaefer or Dog Line brand cleats offered thru the website store are either too long or too short (12" o4 10", I need 11 1/8")and the span between the two mounting studs (existing cleat is about 3") are to far apart. Am I on the right track as far as corrosion being the cause? does any one know where the correct deck cleats were sourced?- are they still available? If not, can the corroded threaded studs be removed from my existing cleats and replaced? any help would really be appreciated. I have not removed the cleats yet as my boat is in the water and tethered with dock lines attached.

Jim

Take a look on the Beneteau parts website. It may show a spacer which if aluminum is subject to corrosion. I had a mid ships cleat split on a 2006 - 423 because of a collision (a story for another time). Unfortunately B shopped producing the identical cleat in 2012. So the insurance company had all of the cleats replaced with the newer model. However, before that my dealer scoured the entire dealer network and couldn't find an original. When they did the replacement they used SS spacers.

Gunni · Dec 8, 2014

The problem is indeed the aluminum spacer that spaces the cleat up through the teak toe rail. The aluminum corrodes, swells and splits the teak. I had a replacement fabricated from used drive shaft alloy, but if Beneteau sells a SS replacement that is your fix. Isolate the dissimilar metals with 4200 or 5200.

Keep those cleats, you will find none better, or of more appropriate sizing.

Captn TJ · Dec 9, 2014

Gunni said:
The problem is indeed the aluminum spacer that spaces the cleat up through the teak toe rail. The aluminum corrodes, swells and splits the teak. I had a replacement fabricated from used drive shaft alloy, but if Beneteau sells a SS replacement that is your fix. Isolate the dissimilar metals with 4200 or 5200. Keep those cleats, you will find none better, or of more appropriate sizing.

I can personally attest to the quality of the cleats. We were anchored in the north channel when a squall blew in (gusts up to 60 KT winds). A 30' sailboat broke free and hit us amidships full force. Fortunately the offending boat's anchor roller hit out mid ships cleat which stopped the boat from holing us. Before he hit us he hit a big powerboat and put a 2' diameter hole in it.

Gunni · Dec 9, 2014

When I was evaluating boats for ownership, those big Beneteau aluminum alloy cleats were at the top of the list. I especially like how they sit high and proud on the rail, unencumbered by hawse holes, fairleads and other chafe-prone complications.

One thing that you can do to improve them is to have hefty, thick stainless backing plates cut to fit under the threaded stud in the deck flange. They ship from the factory with simple SS washers.

Andrew 321 · Jun 4, 2020

My recently purchased 2000 411 has the same leak. I note the need to fix the cleat bolts and spacers. The advice to add a steel plate under the deck joint makes good sense. I would like to know how difficult it is to access the bolts for the midships cleats from inside the boat?