It's spring, and whether you sail all year round or not, it's time to deal with the woodwork on your boat. Will you sand it down to bare wood and start over? Or, if you're lucky, maybe just a maintenance coat or two of whatever you've been using will suffice. On the other hand, maybe you'll just go for a sail and continue to let the teak age and become that silvery gray color. The main choices would seem to be Cetol, varnish, oil, and the always-popular 'nothing." What are your preferences and experiences with each? How do you deal with taking care of the teak on your boat? Share your views here then take the Quick Quiz on the homepage. (Discussion topic and quiz by Warren Milberg)
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Clear-Kote Teak
Currently my teak (luckily my boat has very little on outside) is coated with Cetol..that nasty orange looking stuff.I caught some of West Marine synthetic claer on sale..it is Glossy but I can handle that.Now,to sand off all that old Cetol.I'll do 5 coats of the new stuff and see how it goes and looks..will post on the board later tro let ya'll know the results.Typically, 4-5 coats of Cetol only lasts about a year.Should be interesting to see how the new stuff (Wood Pro Plus) does.
Currently my teak (luckily my boat has very little on outside) is coated with Cetol..that nasty orange looking stuff.I caught some of West Marine synthetic claer on sale..it is Glossy but I can handle that.Now,to sand off all that old Cetol.I'll do 5 coats of the new stuff and see how it goes and looks..will post on the board later tro let ya'll know the results.Typically, 4-5 coats of Cetol only lasts about a year.Should be interesting to see how the new stuff (Wood Pro Plus) does.
working on that project now.
I've got the teak grab rails and companionway cover slides sanded down. I plan on giving it a minimal stain of with one coat of light oak. then several coats of marine varnish with a light sanding between each coat. I should have this done within the next two weeks. If the rain stops!!
I've got the teak grab rails and companionway cover slides sanded down. I plan on giving it a minimal stain of with one coat of light oak. then several coats of marine varnish with a light sanding between each coat. I should have this done within the next two weeks. If the rain stops!!
Bush Oil/Poly
Hello, When I first got my boat, I knew that the first thing that I was going to do was the teak. It was very gray, and very weathered. I decided to remove all of the outside teak and sand it down to new. I then used a product called "Bush Oil",(it acts as a sealer, and brings out a very nice color on the teak), then I used regular water based polycrylic, from minwax. My boats teak is not covered at all during the sailing season, and even though our sailing season is shorter, it still bakes in the sun. After this first year, the brightwork looks as great, as it did when first applied. I'm very happy with the results. Jay
Hello, When I first got my boat, I knew that the first thing that I was going to do was the teak. It was very gray, and very weathered. I decided to remove all of the outside teak and sand it down to new. I then used a product called "Bush Oil",(it acts as a sealer, and brings out a very nice color on the teak), then I used regular water based polycrylic, from minwax. My boats teak is not covered at all during the sailing season, and even though our sailing season is shorter, it still bakes in the sun. After this first year, the brightwork looks as great, as it did when first applied. I'm very happy with the results. Jay
WHY Bother???
OK, i'm an old guy who happens to think that shinny wood, outside, is "tackey". Besides, it is costly, labour intensive, causes consternation and worry. "Did i put the cover on the tiller? On the grab-bars? Et al??" AND, begs the question, "why would anyone want to cover 'beauty'?" Sort-of-like sterling silver table ware. IF one can afford it, it's used ALL the time; IF not it's used ONLY on Sundays. The reason for teak, is its natural tendency to with stand the elements. Meaning, "ya don't gotta worry about it, Bro!" The wood trim on my Grampian is a beautiful silvery shade. Where human-hands caress it, there is a smoothness and glow that only comes with time and affection between man and that upon which he depends. It's value added by time, as with any priceless antique that tempts a touch... Enough already...
OK, i'm an old guy who happens to think that shinny wood, outside, is "tackey". Besides, it is costly, labour intensive, causes consternation and worry. "Did i put the cover on the tiller? On the grab-bars? Et al??" AND, begs the question, "why would anyone want to cover 'beauty'?" Sort-of-like sterling silver table ware. IF one can afford it, it's used ALL the time; IF not it's used ONLY on Sundays. The reason for teak, is its natural tendency to with stand the elements. Meaning, "ya don't gotta worry about it, Bro!" The wood trim on my Grampian is a beautiful silvery shade. Where human-hands caress it, there is a smoothness and glow that only comes with time and affection between man and that upon which he depends. It's value added by time, as with any priceless antique that tempts a touch... Enough already...
New Teak Color Cetol
I have been stripping my teak and was going to varish it about 10 coats or so, BUT I was at West Marine the other day and saw the new Cetol "Teak" coating. I bought a can and tried it on my winch handle holders. It looks like varnish (yeah!!!) not the "organge stuff" like the regular Cetol. I have been using it and love it, 3 coats on bare teak, then 1 coat of Cetol Gloss(my preference) for that shiny look!! Try it and I think you will like it if you want that just varnished look! OBX Sailor
I have been stripping my teak and was going to varish it about 10 coats or so, BUT I was at West Marine the other day and saw the new Cetol "Teak" coating. I bought a can and tried it on my winch handle holders. It looks like varnish (yeah!!!) not the "organge stuff" like the regular Cetol. I have been using it and love it, 3 coats on bare teak, then 1 coat of Cetol Gloss(my preference) for that shiny look!! Try it and I think you will like it if you want that just varnished look! OBX Sailor
Natural Teak Color
I am in the midst of restoring and in some cases replacing the teak aboard my 1984 Catalina 22. Fortunately Catalina Direct sells a number of replacement pieces. The owners before me allowed it get gray which is hard to sand when it has been baking in the florida sun year after year. I just use Teak oil on mine.
I am in the midst of restoring and in some cases replacing the teak aboard my 1984 Catalina 22. Fortunately Catalina Direct sells a number of replacement pieces. The owners before me allowed it get gray which is hard to sand when it has been baking in the florida sun year after year. I just use Teak oil on mine.
Inside and Out
I've just finished my teak this past weekend. The exterior I sand and use Minwax semi-gloss spar varnish - about 6 light coats with sanding between each. Turned out really well. I love seeing the variety in the grain and color variations, granted the Hunter does not have much exterior woodwork. Below decks the 320 has almost full teak, which I oil several times each year to keep the rich dark look. After 6 years it still looks like new. The teak-and-holly sole is still original and is holding up very well, partly because I have a rug runner at the bottom of the stairs to catch most of the grit and dirt. The effort is just one of the parts of boat ownership I enjoy!
I've just finished my teak this past weekend. The exterior I sand and use Minwax semi-gloss spar varnish - about 6 light coats with sanding between each. Turned out really well. I love seeing the variety in the grain and color variations, granted the Hunter does not have much exterior woodwork. Below decks the 320 has almost full teak, which I oil several times each year to keep the rich dark look. After 6 years it still looks like new. The teak-and-holly sole is still original and is holding up very well, partly because I have a rug runner at the bottom of the stairs to catch most of the grit and dirt. The effort is just one of the parts of boat ownership I enjoy!
Varnish for me
If I wanted it grey, I'd paint it grey. It's Michigan, we have 10 months out of the year to re-varnish it.
If I wanted it grey, I'd paint it grey. It's Michigan, we have 10 months out of the year to re-varnish it.
And yet... there is another...
Been through Cetol (light with gloss topcoat not look too bad), but I found it wore quickly. Been through Bristol Finish (2-part urethane varnish), looked gorgeous when new, but water found its way under and lifted it, flaked badly. Now I swear by Teak-Guard, which penetrates the grain and protects without forming a film on top of the wood. Nothing to flake off or rub through. Doesn't have the gloss of a varnish, so not for the diehard traditionalist. Renews by washing and applying a new coat every couple of years. Works for me!
Been through Cetol (light with gloss topcoat not look too bad), but I found it wore quickly. Been through Bristol Finish (2-part urethane varnish), looked gorgeous when new, but water found its way under and lifted it, flaked badly. Now I swear by Teak-Guard, which penetrates the grain and protects without forming a film on top of the wood. Nothing to flake off or rub through. Doesn't have the gloss of a varnish, so not for the diehard traditionalist. Renews by washing and applying a new coat every couple of years. Works for me!
A spring ritual
Teak work - for me - is a spring ritual every bit as important as cleaning and waxing. My aging retired body doesn't take too kindly to contorting myself along the side decks in order to get my teak rub rails, etc. etc. cleaned and finished each year. So - I do it from a ladder while the boat is still on the hard. I clean my teak with a solution of Clorox Clean-up and rinse well. Then I apply a product called Teak-Care - which looks like chocolate milk, but gives the teak a beautiful golden look that lasts most of a season. I am NOT a fan of varnish because I had a tremendous amount of hard work when I bought my last two boats getting the old flakey stuff off the teak before putting this new stuff on. I've used half a dozen different products over the years - and Teak-Care works the best! Bill on STARGAZER
Teak work - for me - is a spring ritual every bit as important as cleaning and waxing. My aging retired body doesn't take too kindly to contorting myself along the side decks in order to get my teak rub rails, etc. etc. cleaned and finished each year. So - I do it from a ladder while the boat is still on the hard. I clean my teak with a solution of Clorox Clean-up and rinse well. Then I apply a product called Teak-Care - which looks like chocolate milk, but gives the teak a beautiful golden look that lasts most of a season. I am NOT a fan of varnish because I had a tremendous amount of hard work when I bought my last two boats getting the old flakey stuff off the teak before putting this new stuff on. I've used half a dozen different products over the years - and Teak-Care works the best! Bill on STARGAZER
Ryan there is more to the durability of wood than
oil! there are naturally occuring preservatives in some species that prevent distruction by wood distroying fungus. Teak just happens to be one of the wood species that comes with that. For wood to rot it must stay damp but not completely wet, air must be present, and the wood must not contain substances that inhibit the growth of fungus. The oils used for dressing teak help to repel the water but they do nothing to prevent moisture from entering the wood from the ends and bottom. Eventually all wood will rot but some of it won't rot before the owner does.
oil! there are naturally occuring preservatives in some species that prevent distruction by wood distroying fungus. Teak just happens to be one of the wood species that comes with that. For wood to rot it must stay damp but not completely wet, air must be present, and the wood must not contain substances that inhibit the growth of fungus. The oils used for dressing teak help to repel the water but they do nothing to prevent moisture from entering the wood from the ends and bottom. Eventually all wood will rot but some of it won't rot before the owner does.
Henry
I use Teak Guard also and have found that you can indeed build it to a gloss, just takes more coats. Instead of the usual four as recommended, an additional four to eight will bring about a gloss. I do two per day and buff lightly with bronze wool between. Once you build to a satin gloss you can maintain it with just a light touch up.
I use Teak Guard also and have found that you can indeed build it to a gloss, just takes more coats. Instead of the usual four as recommended, an additional four to eight will bring about a gloss. I do two per day and buff lightly with bronze wool between. Once you build to a satin gloss you can maintain it with just a light touch up.
I used...
I used, after much cleaning and sanding a couple of years ago, something called 'decks ole' which was semi-clear. it held up well without any re-coating for 3 years(covered in the winter)including 4,000 miles of towing last year. I'll have to strip it clean and re-apply for this year, though.
I used, after much cleaning and sanding a couple of years ago, something called 'decks ole' which was semi-clear. it held up well without any re-coating for 3 years(covered in the winter)including 4,000 miles of towing last year. I'll have to strip it clean and re-apply for this year, though.
Get rid of it
When we bought our new boat a key feature we looked for was NO EXTERIOR TEAK. Interior teak is wonderful, exterior teak is nothing but work. I know, the old salts love the stuff. To each his own. But let's face it the use of teak is a throwback to the days when there were no good alternatives such as stainless steel or starboard. For what it's worth, when I had teak I let it go gray and I think that is a nice look. In the right light it almost looks like stainless. ;D
When we bought our new boat a key feature we looked for was NO EXTERIOR TEAK. Interior teak is wonderful, exterior teak is nothing but work. I know, the old salts love the stuff. To each his own. But let's face it the use of teak is a throwback to the days when there were no good alternatives such as stainless steel or starboard. For what it's worth, when I had teak I let it go gray and I think that is a nice look. In the right light it almost looks like stainless. ;D
I dealt with teak once..... once.
It was a constant battle to keep it good looking on my last boat. This time around the previous owners had ignored it completely for years in the Florida sun. I started refurbishing it... Decided I didn't like sanding teak and found an alternative. (I attached a link below) If you have a tough job, give it to a lazy man. He'll find an easier way to do it. Next... the cockpit table, that is currently in pieces in my garage.
It was a constant battle to keep it good looking on my last boat. This time around the previous owners had ignored it completely for years in the Florida sun. I started refurbishing it... Decided I didn't like sanding teak and found an alternative. (I attached a link below) If you have a tough job, give it to a lazy man. He'll find an easier way to do it. Next... the cockpit table, that is currently in pieces in my garage.
changing to oil
Everyone in my marina follows what a teak laden Cabo Rico does every year. We all followed suit and used Epiphane last year and it litterally peeled off the wood all at once just at the 12 month mark - no chance to touch up. A new boat pulled in and wiped down their teak with oil as they say they do every 3 months. It's beautiful! While we're all heat stripping, stripping, cleaning and sanding, they just wipe down and go sailing after a 15 minute wipe down! I really like the natural look of the oiled wood, so that's my next trial.
Everyone in my marina follows what a teak laden Cabo Rico does every year. We all followed suit and used Epiphane last year and it litterally peeled off the wood all at once just at the 12 month mark - no chance to touch up. A new boat pulled in and wiped down their teak with oil as they say they do every 3 months. It's beautiful! While we're all heat stripping, stripping, cleaning and sanding, they just wipe down and go sailing after a 15 minute wipe down! I really like the natural look of the oiled wood, so that's my next trial.
Honey Teak....
I have a large 'teak farm' and being a former reformed varnish-aholic, for exterior teak I use one of the modern two-part base then two-part clear over. My current 'job' is now going into its 7th season with minor repair and once every two years maintenance overcoat of catalyzed clear. Stuff is called "Honey Teak" www.signaturefinish.com. Its expensive but probably the cheapest overall as if properly applied it lasts a VERY long time. Application is easy; since its a catalyzed system you can apply wet over wet. Did I say that it looks like a high quality oil-based varnish .... ahhhh It can be hand-rubbed and buffed like a top-notch ultra-quality varnish job. Ive heard of some folks getting over 12+ years service life out of it ... will let you know in another 5 years. For teak decks and other bare teak I mix 1/3 Teak Wonder, 1/3 Semco Natural, 1/3 Olympic Deck stain (carmel) and apply a quick thin coat yearly. I used to apply commercial grade Scotchguard ... but thats no longer available. Teak is damn expensive ... and teak thats gone grey is UV damaged and will soon errode away.
I have a large 'teak farm' and being a former reformed varnish-aholic, for exterior teak I use one of the modern two-part base then two-part clear over. My current 'job' is now going into its 7th season with minor repair and once every two years maintenance overcoat of catalyzed clear. Stuff is called "Honey Teak" www.signaturefinish.com. Its expensive but probably the cheapest overall as if properly applied it lasts a VERY long time. Application is easy; since its a catalyzed system you can apply wet over wet. Did I say that it looks like a high quality oil-based varnish .... ahhhh It can be hand-rubbed and buffed like a top-notch ultra-quality varnish job. Ive heard of some folks getting over 12+ years service life out of it ... will let you know in another 5 years. For teak decks and other bare teak I mix 1/3 Teak Wonder, 1/3 Semco Natural, 1/3 Olympic Deck stain (carmel) and apply a quick thin coat yearly. I used to apply commercial grade Scotchguard ... but thats no longer available. Teak is damn expensive ... and teak thats gone grey is UV damaged and will soon errode away.
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