Teak talk

[Pete]

Teak

I really like Cetol. It seems to be the perfect product for people like me who like to have nice looking boat, but don't want to go to extremes to keep it that way. The tradeoff is between doing a lot of work or sailing. Cetol gives a "pretty good" result, and then you go sailing. If you prep the teak right, put on 3 coats or so, and do an annual maintenance coat, the stuff seems to last forever. Friends who don't like Cetol don't like it because they don't do the annual maintenance coat....

 

[Lowell Irwin]

Best I've Found!

The best product I have ever found for teak is a product called TeakGuard. It is water based and is easy to apply and maintain. Never flakes or peels and looks great. Initially it takes 2-3 coats but after that one coat a year with out any fuss! Check it out!

 

[By Golly]

teak

Had old, dirty, raised grain, blackish teak on exterior. Sanded the grain down, then applied Z-Spar 2015 Flagship Varnish [upc code 25469-00864],three coats, as recalled. Applied by brushing only in one direction, sanding with 320 grit between coats. Finish brings out the grain, which Cetal blocks entirely. The finish has lasted three years without flaws on handrails, companionway coaming.  Below decks are my challenge today: When bulkheads and other teak applications are oiled they have a beautiful satin look for about a day, then it is back to "dullsville." Believe some of my teak is actually a plywood with teak finish or veneer. How does one get the satin look to stick around for a few years?

 

[DaveyG]

Ford Master Mechanic

Master Mechanic claims that transmission fluid is a cheap and effective method to keep teak oiled. Also learned many years agp that teak has to be oiled after exposure otherwise will dry out and crack. West Marine had one of those $7.00 booklets that rates products and Cetol was pretty low on the test list.

 

[Jim Bechtel]

Gray-Varnish-Oil-New

When I was younger I used to enjoy the kind of grey/silver look of weathered teak. Unfortunately polution doesn't allow for that look anymore. Hunter actually uses 'Daly Seafin Teak Oil'. If you want to keep the same look. I don't particularly like the orangeish color of Cetal. I am going to try a new product I saw on ShipShape TV called "Bristol Finish". It is new and supposed to last longer than anything. Also easy to put on.

 

[joe.barnes@comcast.net]

Teak oil rules

My Beneteau 331 just has teak cockpit seats, plus teak side handles on the companionway cover.I prefer oiling the teak 3 or 4 times a year. The woodgrain really comes out versus the "plastic' look from cetol. I've also learned that a thorough 3-step cleaning combined with two coats of teak oil provide the best results.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Foothills, your teak turned black because

moisture was sealed under it. Cleaning teak and applying Cetol is not a one-day job...the wood must be completely dry--which takes at least a full day in the driest conditions, and can even mean a delay of several days between cleaning/sanding and the first coat (also each succeeding coat) if it rains or the weather is humid.I used Cetol on my boats for more than 10 years. I dunno what the directions on the can say now...but then, they were very specific about making sure the wood is completely dry and the max. humidity in which it can be applied.Unfortunately there's no way to fix it except to strip it all off and start over.

 

[Hal]

Uh, no, Don't power wash as a habit.

Powerwashing to renew the teak look: Big mistake. This removes about the same amount (if not more) than sanding and removes the softer pith material and leaves the harder age rings higher. About six to eight sessions of powerwash and you will have blown away enough material so as to need to start replacing components (hand rails, etc).Practical Sailor rated Epihanes as number 1 in the varnish catagory (I have used Schooner Varnish-it looks good and has held up well). Cetol works well but the compromise is the orange appearance. No magical panaceas in the exterior wood finishes I'm afraid.

 

[Stuart Miller]

Sea Water

I do a weekly brush with seawater for all the exposed teak. I came to this decesion after visitng the Royal Britannia and learning that the only treament the massive teak deck received was a regular scrub with sea water.

 

[eric g]

teak treatment

When I got my 2003 Beneteau a year ago the teak in the cockit had been oiled a dark brown. I have done nothing to it and it is gradualy returning to its natural color. I sail with a friend who has a full teak deack. He just washes it down with saltwater periodically and thats it. The boat is 6 years old and looks fine if you don't mind the natural "gray" color. Outside of of the color, I don't see the point of taking the time to varnish or stain it. I also have a friend who uses Semco which has a very light color to it and he swears by it. I thought the whole point to teak was that you don't have to do anything to it. I have enough things to maintain.

 

[nicholas8465]

Nicholas

Cetol light!...I have a Herresoff H-28... with lots of teak..cap rails, hatches hand rails..I have been using cetol before the "marine" grade came out in 96 or so...orginal stuff was for log cabins..very thin...I allplied that (one gallon) and layed on a coat each year...got dark, after 8 years, (not black) so stripped it..best way , I found was with 80 grit(random orbital only) then 220 on a palm sander...then started all over again with Cetol light...very nice again three base coats in Aug of 04 now another maintance coat....very good in this south florida sun...by the way interior I use "amazon "real lemon oil" to keep up the interior cleans and leaves a nice smell + no mildew..my two cents

 

[Kurt]

Interior teak stains

I have a question! I am refurbishing a boat that sank and the interior teak has big black stains where steel screws corroded and some where black vinyl wiring insulation was lying across it. Commercial cleaners (3 part kit)from West Marine don't seem to do much. Any suggestions?I have been using Cetol light on the exterior and have had good luck so far. I used to work on traditional schooners on the east coast and there it was the old way--7 coats of spar varnish--not much fun. Not enough drying time out here in Oregon for that!

 

[Captain Al24233]

Bristol Finish

During the past 4 years, at least a half dozen of us in our marina have used Bristol. None of us are satisfied. Bristol says it must be application error; however, since all 6 of us have had problems, I believe it is the product. Most of us are going to Cetol or Honey Teak which has held up great on a few boats.

 

[Roger (Ninette Manitoba)]

None of the above

I use WEST system 207 special hardner 2 coats, then spar varnish to UV protect. It only needs a light sand and revarnish every few years or so. You can tell by the varnish starting to peel a bit. Watch for any dings to the finish, that may allow some water in and start to turn the wood a bit dark at the spot of the ding. If so, spot sand, re-epoxy and revarnish the small area.This works well for other woods as well, such as the ash tiller and mahogony companionway slides.

 

[David Popken]

Honey Teak

Has anyone had any experience with Signature Finish's Honey Teak? Apparently, it's a two part finish that really lasts.

 

[RichH]

Honey Teak

I have a Tayana 'teakey' thats going into its 6th season with Honey Teak. It goes on a medium amber color that rapidly fades to a clear 'light honey' color. It does NOT lift, easily repairable. Application is 2 coats of 2-part base followed by 2 coats of 2-part clear. Only minor 'scuffing' with 3M scotchbrite purple pad between coats. I now prefer to lay down 3 coats of base for ultra-long life. When first applying - lay it on thick. A yearly quick maintenance coat of 2-part gloss totally restores it ... but I put down 2 coats every two years and simply power buff it in odd years. I have a Tayana thats 'slathered' in teak and a total recoat including scuffing takes about 4+ hours. Apply it when the temp is COLD (40-50 degrees) for best flow-out if you can. At 70 deg. you can do 4 or 5 coats in less than two days. Apply it in the shade if you can but let it cure in sunlight.  Its EXPENSIVE but when you amortize the cost over the years installed, it comes out FAR cheaper in $$ and time. Since the manufacturer is small, they will sell you any amount you need - just tell them how many sq. ft. you will be covering. Keep the catalyst in a refrigerator. You apply it with soft artists brushes but can be easily sprayed with an air-brush. Im a former varnish-addict and this stuff looks almost as good and wears extremely well. I used to do epoxy+scrim plus 6-8+ oil based coats followed by 3 coats of urethane followed by 2 coats of 2-part urethane clear..... and this stuff is much better with 1/10th the work and lasts and lasts because it doesnt lift. If you're a fanatic, for super-dazzle and a high irridescent glow of the wood cells beneath the coating, add a few extra clear coats, then flat-sand with 1300 grit then hand-rub with rottenstone & water if you want to make a Hinckley blush with envy. I was one of the first in my area to use it, and now I have most of the local varnish-'pros' convinced. Dont use it on Iroko, Afromosa, mahogany, etc. .... just 'REAL' teak. www.signaturefinish.com

 

[RichH]

Stain removal

Kurt --If the stain is only surface stain (from iron) then oxalic will probably do the job. However if the iron staining has penetrated deep down into the depth of the wood; then sorry, only an axe will do any good. You might want to try a 'poltice' of oxalic acid so that it has time to penetrate deep into the wood structure ----- soak a wad of paper towels in oxalic apply the 'wad' to the surface and cover with a layer of saran wrap to keep the 'wad' from drying out. Once you long term soak and it 'does' bleach out the dark, it may be so bleached that it no longer matches the adjacent wood. Probably then you can use a dilute mix of TSP (tri-sodium-phosphate) to bring the tannins back to the surface. If there is any color 'shift', you might want to try 'tinting' with the use aof very dilute analine based dyes .... very dilute, and slowly bring back the 'hue' you need to match. Oxalic acid and TSP are available at hardwarfe and paint storesCaution - be sure to wear rubber gloves when using oxalic as it will rapidly absorb through your skin and do great harm to your kidneys. hope this helps. ... but my bet is on the axe.

 

[Bill Bell]

Starboard

A good way to handle teak is to replace with starboard. We did this with our Hunter 37. Sure looks good all the time without any special work.Bill

 

[Michael]

Rustin's Flexterior

I have tried teak oil by cuprinol on my 305 in the past, however effect fades in a couple of weeks, A friend of mine has used rustin's flexterior and has had a very good resultand long lasting on his 321. I will be doing mine this way.

 

[Gene Tompkins]

Wood Treatment

In Brazil I purchased a product from a company called Renner Sayerlack, It was easy to use and offered alot of UV protection. Probably because it is formulated for tropical woods.