Teak seats and trim.
- Thread starter sunlover
- Start date
Treat the teak and then cover with canvas and/or foam covered canvas.
Photos of what you are trying to replace would be helpful. Is this what you are trying to replace (photo on the left)? If so, replace it with a synthetic like Marine Boat Decking - Synthetic Teak Decking | PlasDECK Inc. , SeaDek, which is what I have in my swim platform (photo on the right), etc.
Photos of what you are trying to replace would be helpful. Is this what you are trying to replace (photo on the left)? If so, replace it with a synthetic like Marine Boat Decking - Synthetic Teak Decking | PlasDECK Inc. , SeaDek, which is what I have in my swim platform (photo on the right), etc.
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The teak seating surfaces on Beneteau's are a continuing maintenance issue.
The panels are comprised of a marine plywood backing plate with teak strips stapled & glued to the plywood backing. The plywood backing is then glued to a recessed area on the seats. Finally, a black caulking compound, such as boatlife, is used to seal the spaces between the teak strips. Assuming that your teak can be refinished, scrub it, treat with two part teak cleaner, and sand lightly to a smooth surface.
Do not sand too aggresively or you will expose the staples that help to attach the strips to the backing plate. If the caulking has deteriorated severely and the teak is OK, use a utility knife to score the caulking and remove it with the aid of a router or dremmel tool, mask the teak and apply new caulking. Finally, seal with your favorite sealer or varnish.
I use Semco teak sealer. It is simple to apply. No need to mask; just apply with a narrow brush and wipe the overflow from the black caulking and gelcoat. Usually apply 3 coats each season. It seals & waterproofs and leaves a non slippery surface, which is important. It doesn't look as good as varnished surfaces or cetol coated surfaces; however, much easier in my opinion.
Certainly, covering the seats with sunbrella fabric would preserve the teak & sealers.
With regards to the missing teak on the swim platform, your options are to fabricate a teak replacement or order a replacement from Benteteau. Some of the new synthetic products mentioned by Sail SF would certainly be a long term (hopefully maintenance free) option also.
Mine looked not quite bad as yours, but close! I refinished it without removing the caulking.
I power washed it first ( yes I know that you're not supposed to) at a safe distance just to remove the crud & decomposed teak. Then scrubbed it across the grain with a 3M pad, treated it with teak cleaner & let it dry out for a day or two. Then used 150 & 220 grit paper on a random orbital sander & sanded lightly. I could not get it completely smooth to my satisfaction; however, I did not want to expose the staples nor damage the caulking. Wiped it down thoroughly with acetone and coated with 3 coats of Semco. Would also recommend synthetic on the swim platform. Takes me approximately 45 minutes for each application of Semco & you can reapply immediately after each coat.
Post some photos of your completed project!
I power washed it first ( yes I know that you're not supposed to) at a safe distance just to remove the crud & decomposed teak. Then scrubbed it across the grain with a 3M pad, treated it with teak cleaner & let it dry out for a day or two. Then used 150 & 220 grit paper on a random orbital sander & sanded lightly. I could not get it completely smooth to my satisfaction; however, I did not want to expose the staples nor damage the caulking. Wiped it down thoroughly with acetone and coated with 3 coats of Semco. Would also recommend synthetic on the swim platform. Takes me approximately 45 minutes for each application of Semco & you can reapply immediately after each coat.
Post some photos of your completed project!
Did the handrails & grab rail on the companionway slider differently as those pieces are solid teak. Removed them from boat and sanded them until grooves were eliminated and surface smooth. Coated with one coat of cetol natural and approximately 3 coats of cetol gloss. Lasts 3 years before light sanding & recoating with gloss.
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wow those black stripes are caulk? Mine feel like hard plastic strips which extend above the wood. I was debating if I should sand them down to be even with the wood so not to leave unsightly lines on the bare rumps of women inclined to wear thong swimsuits. (Visual intended).
Sunlover,
Black stripes are definitely caulk. When I refinished mine I just wanted it to look better & preserve the teak. Your tush dilemma presents a whole different issue. You’re on your own; may have to refurbish both teak & caulk or buy some cushions !!!
I live in michigan so not interested in an Ohio company... just kidding, just football rivalry....
We use Watco Teak oil which is about $12 per quart. Twice a season. Works well and easy to apply.
I think I'm going to ignore everyone's advice and start with linseed oil. That wood looks awfully dry to me so I'll see what I can do to rehabilitate it before I clean, sand, and seal.
Thanks everyone. I'll refer back as soon as the wood stops soaking in oil.
Thanks everyone. I'll refer back as soon as the wood stops soaking in oil.
Still going to have those deep grooves remaining, resulting in more crud accumulating. Cleaning & sanding is the only way to eliminate that problem.
I'll get to it. I just don't want to remove wood that could be reclaimed.
I mostly wanted to get these sealed before any deck paint as I'll never get the paint out of the wood.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,314
Cover the wood with tape and plastic drop cloths.
Then be careful ( very careful) how and where you apply the paint.
I've been working off of a can I've had for well over 5 years and have forgotten how much it cost. But considering how easy it is and how much I like the results, yes, it was worth it, whatever the price was!