Teak Seating Surface Detaching

[DougM]

Starting my spring worklist:
I stored my B323 indoors this winter so everything would get good and dry. I've had a continual problem with the "teak" seating surfaces...they get water under them and if someone sits on them the get a wet rear from the water squeezing out between the wood surface and the underlying fiberglass.

The last 2 years I've recaulked the edges completely, but still have a the problem. Its partly the result of the seating surface becoming detached at the edges and I cannot figure out a way to completely detach the seat surface without ruining it. The reason I want to get it off completely is so that I can clean the accumulated crud from beneath it then re-bond to a clean fiberglass surface. The wood itself is in fairly good condition, and I don't want to replace it if I can find a way to solidly reattach.

Any suggestions short of getting a new boat with no exterior teak on it would be appreciated.

I've got all of the old finish off the wood and am still debating whether to put new finish on or just keep it clean and let it weather. I hate the look of Cetol and a good varnish job is a lot of work.

 

[Murray16764]

Doug, I fixed this problem on my B352. I removed the locker tops/seats. At home I removed as much of the caulking in areas where the teak as loose, providing limited access to the teak and the fiberglass. Then I used Gorilla Glue to glue down the teak - it is a great product for this purpose. It expands into the space, likes mosture and is water proof when dry. Note, you need to clamp the teak down until it drys. As caulking I used 3M 5200 and finished it off with Cetal (natural finish). It worked really well, the teak is rock solid, caulking is holding and the seats dry off quickly once wet. Send me a message directly, if you have any questions. Murray

 

[Ron20324]

Murray, how long has this fix held up for you?

 

[DougM]

I tried using Gorilla Glue last year and it really didn't seem to bite into the fiberglass. I really want to find a way of getting the entire seating surface off without wrecking it. I think the accumulation of dirt under the surface could be a part of the problem.

I used black Boat-life caulk on the seat and swim platform edges, but because the Gorilla Glue didn't hold, the seat surface flex eventually exceeded the flexibility of the caulking and consequently started to get water underneath again.

Although I like 5200 in its place, the thought of using it as a caulk scares me a little. I know that if it became absolutely imperative to remove the seat surfaces i really would have a major job on my hands.

It seems like everybody but me likes Cetol...I just don't like the color at all. I let all of my old finish wear off last summer (with a little help) because I wanted to attack the detaching problem this spring. Now I'm considering no finish at all.

 

[Murray16764]

To all; I did this repair last winter, so it is just experienced one season of use. To Doug's point, if the teak is not stable, there is no caulking that will stay in place. I am surprised that the Gorilla glue didn't work - so far it is working well for me. Although, you have to make sure it drys under pressure, which means using a whole bunch of clamps. If you have to remove all the teak - that's a major job. Murray

 

[Team Boatisatva]

Doug,

I have the same problem with my Bene 352. I found this on the Beneteau USA website. Hope to try it this spring.

• Remove 3 cm of black silicone in at least in 2 places at the level of the unglued area (eventually more depending on the unglued surface).
• Drill 1/16" holes just through the teak approximately 1" a part in the area of removed silicone.
• Blow compressed air to remove water.
• Through the 1/16" holes inject polyurethane glue {3M 5200}.
• Push down the teak slats. You can screw the slats down with some small screws and cover with a teak bungs. You will need to apply heavy weight for a minimum of 24 / 36 hours.
• Reapply black silicone.

Good Luck,

Kim

 

[br111]

I had the same problem on a 311. Prop the teak up with whatever you can find to keep air circulating under it on a hot summer day to dry. Next take and mix up some epoxy (west systems with the hardener and follow the directions). After cleaning underneath the teak and surface area with denatured alcohol and letting it dry (it won't take much), spread epoxy under the teak. Then get buckets of water for weight to hold the teak down. Let it sit overnight and voila. THEN caulk. Your wasting your time if just try to hold it down with caulk. If you have varnished or urethaned your teak, any trapped moisture is going to cause the finish to self-destruct. BUT, you bought a boat to have something to continually work on anyway, right?