Teak runners for cabin hatch on ODay 25

May 6, 2014
11
Oday 25 Herrington Harbour North, Tracey's Landing, MD
I am replacing the runners for the cabin hatch cover on a 1983 ODay 25. The current runners are pretty beat up.

Before I repolce the old runners with the new runners, I cannot tell if I need to notch out some of the top on each new runner above the cabin way, so that I am able to slide the hatchcover into the runners, and/or remove the hatch cover, without having to remove the runners as well once they are installed. The tops of the current runners appear to have been notched out for this purpose.

Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks.
 
May 8, 2011
189
ODay 25 Cambridge
D & R sells runners for $58 per runner. Runners have holes where they are screwed to the cabin top. A teak dung completes the job for each hole. Don't know if the runners from D & R have holes drilled in them, probably not. The hatch can not be removed with the runners in place on my ODay 25. This prevents the hatch coming off should the boat experience some sort of problem, like a capsize.
 
May 6, 2014
11
Oday 25 Herrington Harbour North, Tracey's Landing, MD
Makes sense. I have the runners, holes, bungs, from D&R Marine, per Rudy Nickerson.
My current runners are in even worse shape than I realized. What I thought was a convenience was a danger.

My prior boat was a Tanzer 22, and could not remove the hatch without removing the runners.
Now I have my weekend project.
Thanks a million.
 
Sep 25, 2008
992
Oday 25 Gibraltar
I got my new runners from Rudy. They weren't drilled (I don't think). No problem. Use the old runners as a pattern for the new holes or drill new holes if the old holes in the cabintop are not to your liking. You'll see when you get the old one off.
Another option is to use synthetic teak- I don't know what it's called, but there are several to choose from- and if you have the power tools you can make your own. There was some discussions on this a couple of years ago on this forum.
I also replaced all the toe rails. BTW
 

Ritdog

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Jul 18, 2011
184
Oday 25 Portland, ME
I replaced mine about 6 weeks ago- you DO have to take the whole thing off, and take note of just where the runners fit to width-wise.

I just filled in the old holes, as my new/used ones had different spacing. Countersunk new holes, chamfered the hull side, and used 4000 for reinstall.
 
May 22, 2004
77
Oday 23 Bullock's Cove, RI
A couple of suggestions

I replaced my runners a few years ago .... do no tremember if the holes were there or not. I did purchase from Rudy at D&R.
So my suggestions

1) Finish the runners with whatever you plan to use before installing. If you plan to use varnish or Cetol or ??? do that first before you install. Yes you will have to refinish the area where the bungs go after you have inserted and cut off the bits above the surface but that's a small job compared to doing the entire thing once they are installed on the boat. No drips or mess to clean-up on the fibreglass and the slots and slides are coated --- at least for a few years.

2) Once installed and everything is finished and dry ..... spray a little "polish" on the bottom side of the hatch. I did this this year and what a difference. My hatch was always "sticky" and needed a shove to get it to slide back. I was cleaning the boat this spring and putting some lemon polish/cleaner - a spray type like "Pledge" on the interior woodwork. I noticed some wear marks on the bottom of the hatch indicative of it rubbing and decided to spray that areas and wow ... what a difference. The hatch slide easily back and forth.
I then went outside, sprayed some polish into a rag and wiped the slot there the hatch slides. Did that a couple of times on both sides and now the hatch opens and closes with the push of a finger. No more jamming or anything.