My teak is in need of refinishing, it looks like someone had varnished it at one time, After sanding and cleaning should I oil the teak instead of varnish ? Thank you all. Alan
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NNNOOOOO!!!!!!!!!
I did that at the recommendation of someone and I had to re-do it the next season (this season). I used a marine finish that was two steps sealer and finish coat. it's called waterlox it was recommended by a friend who saw it on a boat in the Keys and asked the owner what he used he said it was great and only required minimal up keep after a lot of sun and salt water. It's not cheep but what is for a boat one quart each cost a bit over $60.00 total. Keith
I did that at the recommendation of someone and I had to re-do it the next season (this season). I used a marine finish that was two steps sealer and finish coat. it's called waterlox it was recommended by a friend who saw it on a boat in the Keys and asked the owner what he used he said it was great and only required minimal up keep after a lot of sun and salt water. It's not cheep but what is for a boat one quart each cost a bit over $60.00 total. Keith
No oil
Oil does not last more than a few months even in norther climates. I use Bristol Finish on my teak, but applying it is a lot of work - they recommend 5 or six coats after sanding to 220 grit. If one keeps up on maintenance it needs 2 coats every 3 or 4 years in northern climates. Many people use Cetol and get pretty good results. I am not sure how many coats, but it is certainly not 6 and I would guess there is not a need to sand to 220 grit. On my old boat, I got decent results with Honey Teak and only sanded to 100 or 120.
Oil does not last more than a few months even in norther climates. I use Bristol Finish on my teak, but applying it is a lot of work - they recommend 5 or six coats after sanding to 220 grit. If one keeps up on maintenance it needs 2 coats every 3 or 4 years in northern climates. Many people use Cetol and get pretty good results. I am not sure how many coats, but it is certainly not 6 and I would guess there is not a need to sand to 220 grit. On my old boat, I got decent results with Honey Teak and only sanded to 100 or 120.
Hard Finish
Any hard finish whether varnish or Poly in which case, most varnishes today are also Polyurethanes, are far better than an oil finish. Most boat manufacturers want their finish to last. Do they use oil? The only advantage of oil is it requires the least amount of prep and application. Its durability and long lasting ability is practically zero. This topic brings about fierce debates. Walk the docks, see what u like best on other boats and it will probably be a varnish. Tony B
Any hard finish whether varnish or Poly in which case, most varnishes today are also Polyurethanes, are far better than an oil finish. Most boat manufacturers want their finish to last. Do they use oil? The only advantage of oil is it requires the least amount of prep and application. Its durability and long lasting ability is practically zero. This topic brings about fierce debates. Walk the docks, see what u like best on other boats and it will probably be a varnish. Tony B
Tea Re Finishing
Please allow me to offer what I've learned about tea wood. Tea wood was / is used aboard ships because it has a natural oil in it, which keeps it from rotting in the salt water. When you apply varnish to tea wood, you seal it up. I found out, in a not too long period of time, the varnish will lift and start peeling because of the oil in the wood ....... it has to breath. Reapplying tea oil is OK, but the oil helps collect the dirt therefore turning it dark again. (Thats why tea turns dark. Its the oil collection the dirt). I have found Tea Sealer seems to work the best and holds up the longest. Hope this helps.
Please allow me to offer what I've learned about tea wood. Tea wood was / is used aboard ships because it has a natural oil in it, which keeps it from rotting in the salt water. When you apply varnish to tea wood, you seal it up. I found out, in a not too long period of time, the varnish will lift and start peeling because of the oil in the wood ....... it has to breath. Reapplying tea oil is OK, but the oil helps collect the dirt therefore turning it dark again. (Thats why tea turns dark. Its the oil collection the dirt). I have found Tea Sealer seems to work the best and holds up the longest. Hope this helps.
I have learned
from this board. Particularly from TonyB and Maine Sail, that you have to wipe it down with acetone before applying varnish. Listen to these guys, they know. I did mine, wasn't particularly satisfied with the results. Then I saw some pics of Tony's interior varnish work. Read some of Tony and Maine Sails posts. Re sanded it, wiped it down with acetone and it is beautiful.
from this board. Particularly from TonyB and Maine Sail, that you have to wipe it down with acetone before applying varnish. Listen to these guys, they know. I did mine, wasn't particularly satisfied with the results. Then I saw some pics of Tony's interior varnish work. Read some of Tony and Maine Sails posts. Re sanded it, wiped it down with acetone and it is beautiful.
finishing teak
On the outside, I used WM epoxy with the 207 UV hardner. half dozen coats on sanded bare teak. couple coats of varnish with the UV protect. Very pleased and its holding up great.
On the outside, I used WM epoxy with the 207 UV hardner. half dozen coats on sanded bare teak. couple coats of varnish with the UV protect. Very pleased and its holding up great.
2 part cleaner
I've done quiet a bit of varnishing on interior teak. Prep is the same inside or out and I have had very good results. On the exterior however I use Cetol for ease of maintenance. You apply 3 coats the first year and one every year after. If done right you can get about 6 - 7 years before it will start to peel. It sands off very easy. I use a 2 part teak cleaner to strip the oil from the teak prior to varnishing of Cetol. Works great!
I've done quiet a bit of varnishing on interior teak. Prep is the same inside or out and I have had very good results. On the exterior however I use Cetol for ease of maintenance. You apply 3 coats the first year and one every year after. If done right you can get about 6 - 7 years before it will start to peel. It sands off very easy. I use a 2 part teak cleaner to strip the oil from the teak prior to varnishing of Cetol. Works great!
Nice N Easy...
You aren't telling me you sanded the varnished teak... wiped it down with acetone... and that was it? You must have put on 1 final coat of varnish, no sand and no acetone... right? Curious Rich
You aren't telling me you sanded the varnished teak... wiped it down with acetone... and that was it? You must have put on 1 final coat of varnish, no sand and no acetone... right? Curious Rich
Sorry Rich
Sometimes my fingers get to working and my brain doesn't keep up. I just assume that you guys can read my mind. You know how us old farts get. What I should have said was I sanded all my brand new varnish completely off, wiped down good with acetone, and then applied new varnish. Put on four coats, then a very fine finish sanding and two more coats. The difference is like night and day. Matter of fact I posted up after that, and told Tony and Main Sail, damn you and thank you.
Sometimes my fingers get to working and my brain doesn't keep up. I just assume that you guys can read my mind. You know how us old farts get. What I should have said was I sanded all my brand new varnish completely off, wiped down good with acetone, and then applied new varnish. Put on four coats, then a very fine finish sanding and two more coats. The difference is like night and day. Matter of fact I posted up after that, and told Tony and Main Sail, damn you and thank you.
There is a lot of myths
associated with teak. Teak cant be glued, teak cant be varnished, oil is the best thing for teak, etc. etc. Teak furniture has been glued up for hundreds of years and possibly thousands. If you give a solvent wipe with acetone or laquer thinner using a generous amount but not flooding, you can glue teak with hide glue, white glue, yellow glue etc, etc. You can finish it with hard finishes such as varnish,shellac, laquer, polyurethane etc, etc. Go to any quality furniture store and witness all of this 'magic' before your very eyes. Teak furniture glued up and a hard finish. Yes, teak does have oil, but not its not a gusher. Most people just repeat the same old story they read. A hard finish will preserve the teak far far longer than any oil will. Dont believe me? Walk any marina and look at the 'well maintained' teak. It will look like new. Then look at the oiled teak and it will look like s**t, not to mention the no-finish. The deep grain degradation from sun and weather erosion. If the old ways were better, we would still be doing it that way. As for Cetol, as far as I'm concerned, all it is is a varnish with orange and pink paint pigment in it. The pigment blocks the UV just like paint does. It will never look as good as a varnish or a urethane as far as clarity. Again, walk the marinas and see for yourself. Many people like Cetol for various reasons, I am one that dont. IMHO Tony B
associated with teak. Teak cant be glued, teak cant be varnished, oil is the best thing for teak, etc. etc. Teak furniture has been glued up for hundreds of years and possibly thousands. If you give a solvent wipe with acetone or laquer thinner using a generous amount but not flooding, you can glue teak with hide glue, white glue, yellow glue etc, etc. You can finish it with hard finishes such as varnish,shellac, laquer, polyurethane etc, etc. Go to any quality furniture store and witness all of this 'magic' before your very eyes. Teak furniture glued up and a hard finish. Yes, teak does have oil, but not its not a gusher. Most people just repeat the same old story they read. A hard finish will preserve the teak far far longer than any oil will. Dont believe me? Walk any marina and look at the 'well maintained' teak. It will look like new. Then look at the oiled teak and it will look like s**t, not to mention the no-finish. The deep grain degradation from sun and weather erosion. If the old ways were better, we would still be doing it that way. As for Cetol, as far as I'm concerned, all it is is a varnish with orange and pink paint pigment in it. The pigment blocks the UV just like paint does. It will never look as good as a varnish or a urethane as far as clarity. Again, walk the marinas and see for yourself. Many people like Cetol for various reasons, I am one that dont. IMHO Tony B
Nice N Easy....
Ahhh... the only reason I asked, is that I am right in the middle of doing some drop boards, binnacle table, and some other odds and ends. I figured there was a trick that I didn't know about! I am using Epiphanes Gloss Wood finish. It is a little difficult to work with, as it is like brushing on maple syrup. The build up is incredible with one coat, and no sanding needed! I will put on 3 coats of that... and follow up with 2 coats of Epiphanes Clear Gloss Varnish. I have found that I get better results with a foam brush. Now If I can keep my wifes 2 LONG HAIR cats in quarantine for a week... I should be all set. Boat gets wet in 1 week.
Ahhh... the only reason I asked, is that I am right in the middle of doing some drop boards, binnacle table, and some other odds and ends. I figured there was a trick that I didn't know about! I am using Epiphanes Gloss Wood finish. It is a little difficult to work with, as it is like brushing on maple syrup. The build up is incredible with one coat, and no sanding needed! I will put on 3 coats of that... and follow up with 2 coats of Epiphanes Clear Gloss Varnish. I have found that I get better results with a foam brush. Now If I can keep my wifes 2 LONG HAIR cats in quarantine for a week... I should be all set. Boat gets wet in 1 week.
epoxy
This is what I have done, just another method. I have sanded all the teak on the outside of my boat so it all looks good. Then I use a water based stain (I like it to be a little darker than it is)on it. I let that dry overnight then I put a few coats of epoxy on it. after that is good and dry I use spare urathane one it for UV protection. This works great. all I do now is use a little 000 steel wool on it in the sring and put a couple coats of the urathane on it and it looks as good as the day it was done. It is a bit o work the first time but very simple after that.
This is what I have done, just another method. I have sanded all the teak on the outside of my boat so it all looks good. Then I use a water based stain (I like it to be a little darker than it is)on it. I let that dry overnight then I put a few coats of epoxy on it. after that is good and dry I use spare urathane one it for UV protection. This works great. all I do now is use a little 000 steel wool on it in the sring and put a couple coats of the urathane on it and it looks as good as the day it was done. It is a bit o work the first time but very simple after that.
Rich(P303)
I recently used the Epiphanes Gloss Wood Finish for the first time. And YES, it is difficult to work with but I finally got used to it. Believe it or not, I found it went on easier without thinning. I removed everything that could come off the boat and sprayed them. The Epiphanes when thinned, sprays real well. The buildup whether brushed or sprayed is incredible. At first I didnt like it, but now I do. It only took a few days to realize how bullet proof this stuff really is. When bumped or scraped.....nothing. Most other varnishes would have 'chipped'. The only thing I finally didnt like about the Epiphanes was the 'look'. This is a purely personal thing. Everyone has different taste. It reminded me of the 1960's polyuethane plastic look. After about a week, I scuff sanded with 220 grit and recoated with Schooner Varnish. The ambering in the Schooner Varnish darkened it quite a bit and gave it more of the look I wanted, which was to get rid of the 'plastic look'. I ended up applying 4 coats of Epiphanes and 4 coats of Schooner Varnish. I havent used Epiphanes Varnish but Im sure it does the same thing. Our local West Marine didnt have their varnish. Is Epiphanes more expensive....I THINK NOT. With the noticably higher amount of solids, Im sure the mil build-up per square foot or equated to $$ per square foot, Epiphanes may actually be cheaper. I havent done the math, but Epiphanes will give you sticker shock. My time to varnish is done in fits and spurts so a 2 part urethane would not be practical, in that mixing small amounts would not be practical. So far, the Epiphanes appears to be as hard and durable as a 2 part urethane. Only time will tell. Tony B
I recently used the Epiphanes Gloss Wood Finish for the first time. And YES, it is difficult to work with but I finally got used to it. Believe it or not, I found it went on easier without thinning. I removed everything that could come off the boat and sprayed them. The Epiphanes when thinned, sprays real well. The buildup whether brushed or sprayed is incredible. At first I didnt like it, but now I do. It only took a few days to realize how bullet proof this stuff really is. When bumped or scraped.....nothing. Most other varnishes would have 'chipped'. The only thing I finally didnt like about the Epiphanes was the 'look'. This is a purely personal thing. Everyone has different taste. It reminded me of the 1960's polyuethane plastic look. After about a week, I scuff sanded with 220 grit and recoated with Schooner Varnish. The ambering in the Schooner Varnish darkened it quite a bit and gave it more of the look I wanted, which was to get rid of the 'plastic look'. I ended up applying 4 coats of Epiphanes and 4 coats of Schooner Varnish. I havent used Epiphanes Varnish but Im sure it does the same thing. Our local West Marine didnt have their varnish. Is Epiphanes more expensive....I THINK NOT. With the noticably higher amount of solids, Im sure the mil build-up per square foot or equated to $$ per square foot, Epiphanes may actually be cheaper. I havent done the math, but Epiphanes will give you sticker shock. My time to varnish is done in fits and spurts so a 2 part urethane would not be practical, in that mixing small amounts would not be practical. So far, the Epiphanes appears to be as hard and durable as a 2 part urethane. Only time will tell. Tony B
William
I have never used epoxy although I have been tempted to at times, just never got around to it. Im sure it will serve you well. The only thing that I wanted to mention is that I dont think that the stain was necessary. Most woods including mahogany and teak, when sanded will look light in color. They will darken some when first coated, but still not that dark color that some of us strive for. However, no matter how many coats of whatever clear finish, the wood will darken on its own when exposed to sunlight. Maybe next spring, someone should re-open this thread for an update. Tony B
I have never used epoxy although I have been tempted to at times, just never got around to it. Im sure it will serve you well. The only thing that I wanted to mention is that I dont think that the stain was necessary. Most woods including mahogany and teak, when sanded will look light in color. They will darken some when first coated, but still not that dark color that some of us strive for. However, no matter how many coats of whatever clear finish, the wood will darken on its own when exposed to sunlight. Maybe next spring, someone should re-open this thread for an update. Tony B
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