Folks, I am in the process of re-doing all my interior wood teak). I have the following questions on how to do it...... 1. What type of sand paper should I use? The previous varnish is almost gone. 2. I am also replacing some teak pieces, how can I color match the old pieces with the new ones? 3. I have most of the teak pieces old and new out of the boat. I would like to have the same color on my teak as when it came from the factory. Is it posible? What varnish or teak oil should I use?. Since must of the teaks are out of the boat, can I apply varnisn utilizing a air compresor.Does it make a diference... Please Advise Charlie vega
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One Opinion on Teak Refinishing
Suggest you use a finish remover and putty knife first to wood it all down. Don't worry too much about new and old wood. Then use a moderate grit non-clogging sandpaper. You can add some darker stain to light areas or wood bleach to the darker. But even the new boat didn't match up that well and the finish will bring it together more than you probably think. Suggest you use a marine urethane with UV protection since the Hunter gets a lot of light below and the interior of a boat is a tough wear area. I have used both varnish and urethane, and have had good luck with both except for a water based household urethane that was a top brand but a nightmare. I think spraying is a good idea. Just don't lay down too much at once. Good luck. It will be pretty. Rick D.
Suggest you use a finish remover and putty knife first to wood it all down. Don't worry too much about new and old wood. Then use a moderate grit non-clogging sandpaper. You can add some darker stain to light areas or wood bleach to the darker. But even the new boat didn't match up that well and the finish will bring it together more than you probably think. Suggest you use a marine urethane with UV protection since the Hunter gets a lot of light below and the interior of a boat is a tough wear area. I have used both varnish and urethane, and have had good luck with both except for a water based household urethane that was a top brand but a nightmare. I think spraying is a good idea. Just don't lay down too much at once. Good luck. It will be pretty. Rick D.
Teak Refinishing
1.) If 150 grit paper will work , use it, but i wouldnt go coarser than 120, nor finer than 150. 2.) I wouldnt worry about color matching for several reasons; a.) If the teak has been sanded down to bare wood plus a hair, the final color will be about the same as the wood itself dictates ( more or less ) without too much regard to age. b.) Carefully observe all the wooden furniture in your home and you will notice that the individual boards that make up a side panel or table top NEVER really match in color. As a matter of fact, if you go to a quality lumber yard and look at the really fancy expensive imported woods, one end of a board rarely matches the other.It is the slight mismatch in color AND grain that gives wood that unique look. c.) To the non believers... try this experiment: bleach one half of a board and leave the other half unbleached. When dry and ready, apply any "clear finish" and you will notice that you DONT notice a difference. This is because all clear finishes have a slight ambering affect and will re-amber (if there is such a word) the wood. The only time you will see a difference with bleach is if the finish is classisified " water white " which i have never see in any non comm'l stores. And since water white finish leaves wood looking very lifeless, you will apply water white first then a tinted color finish on top . Will look like s**t if you dont know what you are doing. d.) Most importanty, like most natural substances, wood ALWAYS matches wood. That is , if you have a room or boat full of wooden furniture or things, you can have oak, walnut,mahogany, teak etc. and they will all go together just great. It is not like matching colors in paint or fabric. 3.) If you can spray, more power to you.Finish goes on better and faster. Fot thr interior panels and bulkheads, any middle grade varnish or eurethane will last for many years. I always opt for the eurethanes because they are much tougher. Be sure that what ever you use it is a marine grade. Not just for UV protection but also for chemical resistance. As for the parts you removed, i would assume they are the grab rails, table and counter edges, fidle rails etc. you might want to consider a more bullet proof finish. The auto industry has always been light years ahead of any other industry when it comes to finishes. Go to an quality auto paint store and get a 2 part clear euretane finish for auto's. It will also work great on wood...TRUST ME ON THIS ONE. you will be very impressed with results. Only need 3 thin coats and wood will look like it is under an inch of glass and will NOT look like plastic. Ever notice the finish on expensive new power boats? especially the wheel and accesories. 4.) Whenever working with teak or any naturally oily woods, ALWAYS wash area down with LAQUER thinner ( not paint thinner ) prior to painting or glueing.This will remove a small amount of the oil from the surface and give you better adhesion. 5.) thanks for the opportunity to let me grandstand. I used to build very expensive custom furniture with exotic woods and have some experience in this area.
1.) If 150 grit paper will work , use it, but i wouldnt go coarser than 120, nor finer than 150. 2.) I wouldnt worry about color matching for several reasons; a.) If the teak has been sanded down to bare wood plus a hair, the final color will be about the same as the wood itself dictates ( more or less ) without too much regard to age. b.) Carefully observe all the wooden furniture in your home and you will notice that the individual boards that make up a side panel or table top NEVER really match in color. As a matter of fact, if you go to a quality lumber yard and look at the really fancy expensive imported woods, one end of a board rarely matches the other.It is the slight mismatch in color AND grain that gives wood that unique look. c.) To the non believers... try this experiment: bleach one half of a board and leave the other half unbleached. When dry and ready, apply any "clear finish" and you will notice that you DONT notice a difference. This is because all clear finishes have a slight ambering affect and will re-amber (if there is such a word) the wood. The only time you will see a difference with bleach is if the finish is classisified " water white " which i have never see in any non comm'l stores. And since water white finish leaves wood looking very lifeless, you will apply water white first then a tinted color finish on top . Will look like s**t if you dont know what you are doing. d.) Most importanty, like most natural substances, wood ALWAYS matches wood. That is , if you have a room or boat full of wooden furniture or things, you can have oak, walnut,mahogany, teak etc. and they will all go together just great. It is not like matching colors in paint or fabric. 3.) If you can spray, more power to you.Finish goes on better and faster. Fot thr interior panels and bulkheads, any middle grade varnish or eurethane will last for many years. I always opt for the eurethanes because they are much tougher. Be sure that what ever you use it is a marine grade. Not just for UV protection but also for chemical resistance. As for the parts you removed, i would assume they are the grab rails, table and counter edges, fidle rails etc. you might want to consider a more bullet proof finish. The auto industry has always been light years ahead of any other industry when it comes to finishes. Go to an quality auto paint store and get a 2 part clear euretane finish for auto's. It will also work great on wood...TRUST ME ON THIS ONE. you will be very impressed with results. Only need 3 thin coats and wood will look like it is under an inch of glass and will NOT look like plastic. Ever notice the finish on expensive new power boats? especially the wheel and accesories. 4.) Whenever working with teak or any naturally oily woods, ALWAYS wash area down with LAQUER thinner ( not paint thinner ) prior to painting or glueing.This will remove a small amount of the oil from the surface and give you better adhesion. 5.) thanks for the opportunity to let me grandstand. I used to build very expensive custom furniture with exotic woods and have some experience in this area.
Teak Re-finishing
I recently re-did my cabin teak in my 88 Legend 37 after a cabin fire. Tony is right; there are as many variations in wood as you could think of. Teak comes in different grades and varations. I purchased two 4 X 8 sheets of 1/4" teak plywood. The place I purchased it from didn't inspect it from their supplier. The two sheets where as different from each other as could be. Different color hues, major grade differences. You would have guest that one wasn't teak, I know I didn't. Like Tony I also make fine furniture out of more exotic woods. Assuming that you already have purchased the replacement boards you probably hand picked the boards you wanted. If you haven't yet purchased your replacement wood. Go down to the source and pick out exactly what you want. Don't leave it up to the lumber source. If you are planning to refinish any of the teak plywood in the boat; "DON'T SAND". The venier is only about 1/64" thick and you will go through it very easily. I used a good quality "ZIP Strip" to remove the old finish. I know the Hunter uses Daley Finishes out of Seattle, WA for their finish coats. I have used them and found them to be just fine. I also used Cabot's UV high gloss polyurathine (sp)and was very pleased with its result. Good luck.
I recently re-did my cabin teak in my 88 Legend 37 after a cabin fire. Tony is right; there are as many variations in wood as you could think of. Teak comes in different grades and varations. I purchased two 4 X 8 sheets of 1/4" teak plywood. The place I purchased it from didn't inspect it from their supplier. The two sheets where as different from each other as could be. Different color hues, major grade differences. You would have guest that one wasn't teak, I know I didn't. Like Tony I also make fine furniture out of more exotic woods. Assuming that you already have purchased the replacement boards you probably hand picked the boards you wanted. If you haven't yet purchased your replacement wood. Go down to the source and pick out exactly what you want. Don't leave it up to the lumber source. If you are planning to refinish any of the teak plywood in the boat; "DON'T SAND". The venier is only about 1/64" thick and you will go through it very easily. I used a good quality "ZIP Strip" to remove the old finish. I know the Hunter uses Daley Finishes out of Seattle, WA for their finish coats. I have used them and found them to be just fine. I also used Cabot's UV high gloss polyurathine (sp)and was very pleased with its result. Good luck.
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