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Sandpaper Roger,
Sorry to say that, but others I'm sure will have some favorite 'treatments'. But if you want a bristol finish and plan to varnish, sandpaper is it. My boat has little teak and she's going to get a LOT LESS during the off season. I'm going to use Starboard and stainless steel to replace my teak. After nearly 3 decades of maintaining the stuff, I quit.
Sorry to say that, but others I'm sure will have some favorite 'treatments'. But if you want a bristol finish and plan to varnish, sandpaper is it. My boat has little teak and she's going to get a LOT LESS during the off season. I'm going to use Starboard and stainless steel to replace my teak. After nearly 3 decades of maintaining the stuff, I quit.
Agree
I agree with Ferd. Just refinished all the exterior teak on our boat. Sanded off the weatered expopsed areas and varnished with a good CLEAR marine / exterior varnish. Now the wood is a deep warm color with plenty of character.
I agree with Ferd. Just refinished all the exterior teak on our boat. Sanded off the weatered expopsed areas and varnished with a good CLEAR marine / exterior varnish. Now the wood is a deep warm color with plenty of character.
StarBrite
I just cleaned the teak on the Hunter 22 I am working on. The StarBrite kit has a cleaner, brightner and oil in the kit. $20 for the larger kit. It cleans the wood, but leaves it rough. If you use a stiff tooth brush size brush and go over every inch while it is wet, then rinse and scrub with a clean brush it cleans the wood, but again leaves it rough not smooth. Use the brightner and then rinse while scrubbing with a clean brush. Let dry for hours in the hot sun, I was told putting the oil on while the wood is wet is a big NO NO. I read somewhere to put the oil about sun down after the wood has sat in the sun warming all day when it gets cooler the wood sucks the oil deeper into the pores. (?) Sounds good but may be an urban legend. I will say that I have what appears to be a frosty appearance to the wood after oiling and it sits for several hours. Time will tell I may change methods the next time I do the teak, but I used StarBrite this time. Just my newbe 2 cents worth.
I just cleaned the teak on the Hunter 22 I am working on. The StarBrite kit has a cleaner, brightner and oil in the kit. $20 for the larger kit. It cleans the wood, but leaves it rough. If you use a stiff tooth brush size brush and go over every inch while it is wet, then rinse and scrub with a clean brush it cleans the wood, but again leaves it rough not smooth. Use the brightner and then rinse while scrubbing with a clean brush. Let dry for hours in the hot sun, I was told putting the oil on while the wood is wet is a big NO NO. I read somewhere to put the oil about sun down after the wood has sat in the sun warming all day when it gets cooler the wood sucks the oil deeper into the pores. (?) Sounds good but may be an urban legend. I will say that I have what appears to be a frosty appearance to the wood after oiling and it sits for several hours. Time will tell I may change methods the next time I do the teak, but I used StarBrite this time. Just my newbe 2 cents worth.
Semco
I re-did all of my exterior teak with Semco products. Their web site is www.semcoteakproducts.com. No sanding between coats and a very natural look. My experience is that oil is easiest but doesn't last long. Varnish is the most work but lasts. Semco is easy easy like oil and lasts like varnish. It looks natural, not like it has a coating like varnish.
I re-did all of my exterior teak with Semco products. Their web site is www.semcoteakproducts.com. No sanding between coats and a very natural look. My experience is that oil is easiest but doesn't last long. Varnish is the most work but lasts. Semco is easy easy like oil and lasts like varnish. It looks natural, not like it has a coating like varnish.
i'll start the arguement
i used cetol and its beautiful. some "traditionalists", (the ones with GRP hulls, dacron lines, etc.), frown on cetol. my inexperience when i used it was actually was to my benefit i think not knowing quite how the marine cetol was supposed to work. instead of using the "marine" cetol or lite cetol, i was sold the cetol 1 w/ cetol TGL as an overcoat. i was fortunate enough to be able to remove all the exterior teak from my boat and belt sand it. if you're not VERY careful and experienced with a belt sander use a finish sander. the cetol 1 is primarily used for log cabins i'm told....another tough enviroment. over a single coat of teak tinted cetol 1 i put 2 coats of cetol TGL gloss for UV protection and shine....it turned out like glass and has weathered the high rocky mtn summer in perfect shape. (the sun at 5000' is hell on wood finishes). just for the record tho....i have spar varnish on the interior....not the polyurethane stuff that most places sell as "spar varnish", but genuine high solids old fashoned, read "traditional" spar varnish.
i used cetol and its beautiful. some "traditionalists", (the ones with GRP hulls, dacron lines, etc.), frown on cetol. my inexperience when i used it was actually was to my benefit i think not knowing quite how the marine cetol was supposed to work. instead of using the "marine" cetol or lite cetol, i was sold the cetol 1 w/ cetol TGL as an overcoat. i was fortunate enough to be able to remove all the exterior teak from my boat and belt sand it. if you're not VERY careful and experienced with a belt sander use a finish sander. the cetol 1 is primarily used for log cabins i'm told....another tough enviroment. over a single coat of teak tinted cetol 1 i put 2 coats of cetol TGL gloss for UV protection and shine....it turned out like glass and has weathered the high rocky mtn summer in perfect shape. (the sun at 5000' is hell on wood finishes). just for the record tho....i have spar varnish on the interior....not the polyurethane stuff that most places sell as "spar varnish", but genuine high solids old fashoned, read "traditional" spar varnish.
Teaqua for unvarnished wood
No doubt you'll get a lot of good suggestions here. My experience with standard teak oil was that it left the unvarnished wood sticky for too long a time. I didn't want to start varnishing down below for fear of spills and uncertainty over how it would look. I tried a product called "Teaqua" that advertises in the back of Lattitudes and Attitudes magazine and found this to be an outstanding formula. It has a murky color out of the can but dries clear, absolutely smooth and non-sticky, and gives a shiny but not glossy finish. Even smells good. Their url is http://www.teaqua.com/
No doubt you'll get a lot of good suggestions here. My experience with standard teak oil was that it left the unvarnished wood sticky for too long a time. I didn't want to start varnishing down below for fear of spills and uncertainty over how it would look. I tried a product called "Teaqua" that advertises in the back of Lattitudes and Attitudes magazine and found this to be an outstanding formula. It has a murky color out of the can but dries clear, absolutely smooth and non-sticky, and gives a shiny but not glossy finish. Even smells good. Their url is http://www.teaqua.com/
2 cents more on teak
I have had lots of teak on my boats. I agree with Ficarra. Nothing beats a good sanding. Varnish will give the most bristol type results, but you need a lot of coats and constant upkeep. I am using a product called Honey Teak - which Practical Sailor rated high for a long lasting finish. I am in season 2.5 now. I spent an afternoon last month on touch up to some damaged areas, but otherwise it has held up great. The color is much closer to the varnished look that Cetol, which tends to be orangish. Signature Finsishes is the company that makes it. They are fabulous with over the phone support.
I have had lots of teak on my boats. I agree with Ficarra. Nothing beats a good sanding. Varnish will give the most bristol type results, but you need a lot of coats and constant upkeep. I am using a product called Honey Teak - which Practical Sailor rated high for a long lasting finish. I am in season 2.5 now. I spent an afternoon last month on touch up to some damaged areas, but otherwise it has held up great. The color is much closer to the varnished look that Cetol, which tends to be orangish. Signature Finsishes is the company that makes it. They are fabulous with over the phone support.
Sand it...
I bought a 1986 Hunter 28.5 last year. While it doesn't have yards of teak, it does have teak handrails, companionway hatch, helmsman seat, and Edson cockpit table. All had been allowed to go to seed (that is, they had been finished with something in the past, and it was shot). I decided to sand all of this with an orbital sander starting with 100 grit disks and finishing up with 220 grit disks. The whole thing took about 2 hours and it came out great. It was much easier, and better looking, than I had hoped. I'm a long time user of Cetol so that's what I put on last -- as, like Fred, I don't want to be doing this again
I bought a 1986 Hunter 28.5 last year. While it doesn't have yards of teak, it does have teak handrails, companionway hatch, helmsman seat, and Edson cockpit table. All had been allowed to go to seed (that is, they had been finished with something in the past, and it was shot). I decided to sand all of this with an orbital sander starting with 100 grit disks and finishing up with 220 grit disks. The whole thing took about 2 hours and it came out great. It was much easier, and better looking, than I had hoped. I'm a long time user of Cetol so that's what I put on last -- as, like Fred, I don't want to be doing this again
Not just sanding.....
Sanding alone will only bring it back for a while. Teak oil along with sanding will do the rick. I am in the middle of replacing the mahogany on my boat with teak, and the oil makes all the difference. The wife likes the look. And WE all know that is all that matters. But do consider that teak will always turn grey if you don't treat it, an some people like that. I don't so I will oil semi-annually or more if needed.
Sanding alone will only bring it back for a while. Teak oil along with sanding will do the rick. I am in the middle of replacing the mahogany on my boat with teak, and the oil makes all the difference. The wife likes the look. And WE all know that is all that matters. But do consider that teak will always turn grey if you don't treat it, an some people like that. I don't so I will oil semi-annually or more if needed.
Teak
I cannot claim to be an expert on the best way to treat teak. I do know that it is not a good idea to sand teak across the grain. You lose the non-skid benefits. If you can live without an "attractive" color, just leave it untreated. Yes, it turns sort of grayish, but never needs maintanence. That is why teak has long been the wood for boats. I have heard two methods on keeping it clean. One (which my friend uses on his Contest 48 which has a teak deck) is just to wash it down with saltwater. Others say use fresh water. My two cents.
I cannot claim to be an expert on the best way to treat teak. I do know that it is not a good idea to sand teak across the grain. You lose the non-skid benefits. If you can live without an "attractive" color, just leave it untreated. Yes, it turns sort of grayish, but never needs maintanence. That is why teak has long been the wood for boats. I have heard two methods on keeping it clean. One (which my friend uses on his Contest 48 which has a teak deck) is just to wash it down with saltwater. Others say use fresh water. My two cents.
TeaQua Teak Treatment Teak Oil Teak Sealer
I will agree on the previous coments about TeaQua.The teak on our newly purchased older Cheoy Lee was in very bad condition. By using a pressure cleaner and TeaQua it looks incredible. Very simple teak treatment to use and still looks great after a year. The finish is a classic oiled look that stays without constant maintenance. Very rich and natural looking. I use a cloth dipped in TeaQua for touch ups. It blends very well.
I will agree on the previous coments about TeaQua.The teak on our newly purchased older Cheoy Lee was in very bad condition. By using a pressure cleaner and TeaQua it looks incredible. Very simple teak treatment to use and still looks great after a year. The finish is a classic oiled look that stays without constant maintenance. Very rich and natural looking. I use a cloth dipped in TeaQua for touch ups. It blends very well.
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