I am replacing the companionway pinboards on my boat. I am using teak plywood. I plan to finish the pinboards with Cetol. Is Cetol the correct choice for teak plywood?
Bud: I would suggest that you seal the edges of the plywood with epoxy before you finish them. My experience with plywood (even exterior) has not been the best. The worst spot is the part of the board that sits in the bottom of the track. This often sits in water for extended periods of time. Another option is to use a combination of wood and plastic. Use a plastic piece at the bottom with alternating pieces of wood (depends on the number of boards). This allows you go get light below and still keep the outside elements out. You may also want to think about solid teak boards instead of the plywood. They will last for a very long time and usually take a much better finish. I also use Cetol. Use at least 3-4 coats (more is better). If you do not have a companionway cover, this is another option to keep the boards look good for a long time.
What Steve D said, and ... I used Star-Bright Teak Oil Sealer (SB88016), which is more durable (though not as clear & pretty) as Cetol. I also fastened two SMALL nylon nail in “chair glides” on the bottom track of the hatch board bridgedeck coaming.
If you sand the surface in the future, don't. Is that a Yogi Berra saying? Anyway, I tried to save some teak plywood hatchcovers and the layer of teak veneer was so thin on this wood, it was impossible to do without exposing the next layer. Very careful hand sanding to remove old layers may do it, but be careful.
Thanks for all the information The old boards are rotten at the bottem as Steve describes. I would like to go with teak but the cost is way to high for my budget on this repair. Steve, Do you thin the epoxy before you apply it to the edges? What sort of plastic would be used in place of the pin boards? Lexan, etc...? I have the new teak plywood. You are right the outer layer of teak is about as thin as a piece of paper. Sanding would remove the teak.
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