Last year, I varnished my tiller and sadly to say, I'm begining to see the varnish chip away. Instead of trying to figure out what I did wrong, I would like to strip the varnish and just go with oil. I have a teak oil product - think it's called Amazon Teak Oil - can I apply this to a non - teak wood? I cant tell what the tiller is made off - hence the question.
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Cetol Marine Gloss
I used Cetol on my Hans Christian for years, ... wonderful stuff ... the gloss version gives a near-varnish look without the annual maintenance and as it is an oil-based product does not chip if you drop a winch handle on it so repairs are simple. A couple of coats a year will be all you need.
I used Cetol on my Hans Christian for years, ... wonderful stuff ... the gloss version gives a near-varnish look without the annual maintenance and as it is an oil-based product does not chip if you drop a winch handle on it so repairs are simple. A couple of coats a year will be all you need.
Cetol and a cover.
Tony: Varnish would be fine if you are very careful with the prep and be sure that you are using a high quality EXTERIOR varnish. Then cover your tiller when you are not using it. I agree that Cetol is the way to go, but you really still should cover it when not in use!
Tony: Varnish would be fine if you are very careful with the prep and be sure that you are using a high quality EXTERIOR varnish. Then cover your tiller when you are not using it. I agree that Cetol is the way to go, but you really still should cover it when not in use!
"Resinated" Oil
Add about 20-25% varnish to your regular oil, apply THICK (dont wipe off) apply several coats. Thats the way the oldtimers did it when they didnt want the hassles of varnish. Will last about 2 years then is very easily removed with a paste of trisodiumphosphate. If you want a super-gloss on this finish, let cure then wetsand with 1000 grit then handrub with 'rotten-stone' and water ... will equate to the very finest varnish job. There are still some commercial 'resinated' oils being sold: "NuTeak" by Marykate ... available from WM. Apply it THICK and DONT wipe it off when you apply it.
Add about 20-25% varnish to your regular oil, apply THICK (dont wipe off) apply several coats. Thats the way the oldtimers did it when they didnt want the hassles of varnish. Will last about 2 years then is very easily removed with a paste of trisodiumphosphate. If you want a super-gloss on this finish, let cure then wetsand with 1000 grit then handrub with 'rotten-stone' and water ... will equate to the very finest varnish job. There are still some commercial 'resinated' oils being sold: "NuTeak" by Marykate ... available from WM. Apply it THICK and DONT wipe it off when you apply it.
Tony, you didn't do anything wrong. It's the UV
that makes varnish come loose. The surface of the wood actually breaks down a bit, which lets the varnish or other finish loose. Products which soak into the wood (oil, and "resinated" oils) hold a bit better, and they come off easier, or if they're applied thin and are mostly oil, sort of dissappear so you can sand and recoat without the hassle of removing hard varnish. Cetol and other coloured oil finishes have UV inhibitors (the colour helps) so they wood is protected. Exterior marine varnish is getting better as UV inhibitors get better, but if you do your own work, oil, perhaps mixed with a bit of varnish is a lot easier to live with. I like the rubbed oil look rather than a thick build up, mostly because it's easy to wipe on a coat with a rag. Theat means I'm likely to put on several coats a season and it stays fresh. This is a matter of taste, and everybody has their own idea of what they like. There's no right or wrong to it. Just remember, it's not the finish product that breaks down, it's the wood under the finish that lets go.
that makes varnish come loose. The surface of the wood actually breaks down a bit, which lets the varnish or other finish loose. Products which soak into the wood (oil, and "resinated" oils) hold a bit better, and they come off easier, or if they're applied thin and are mostly oil, sort of dissappear so you can sand and recoat without the hassle of removing hard varnish. Cetol and other coloured oil finishes have UV inhibitors (the colour helps) so they wood is protected. Exterior marine varnish is getting better as UV inhibitors get better, but if you do your own work, oil, perhaps mixed with a bit of varnish is a lot easier to live with. I like the rubbed oil look rather than a thick build up, mostly because it's easy to wipe on a coat with a rag. Theat means I'm likely to put on several coats a season and it stays fresh. This is a matter of taste, and everybody has their own idea of what they like. There's no right or wrong to it. Just remember, it's not the finish product that breaks down, it's the wood under the finish that lets go.
Varnish done right
If you don't have a good base of varnish built up it will flake off. A tiller gets handled a lot so that will do it. Sand the old varnish with 100 grit, using a wood block or other rigid backing for the sand paper. Wipe the dust off with a dry paper towel. Using a good natural bristle brush, brush on a thin coat, with lots of brush strokes to spread it out. Apply at least 5 coats that way, giving it 24 hours to dry between coats. Don't varnish late in the day or if it will get rained on later. It helps to do a light sanding between coats. Cetol looks nice but eventually turns an opaque brown, like cheap plastic. It will permanently stain teak wherever it can seep into endgrain. Even Jasco and hard sanding will not remove it. Varnish can always be stripped. If you sand and then apply 1 or 2 coats every 6 months, a varnish finish will always be bristol.
If you don't have a good base of varnish built up it will flake off. A tiller gets handled a lot so that will do it. Sand the old varnish with 100 grit, using a wood block or other rigid backing for the sand paper. Wipe the dust off with a dry paper towel. Using a good natural bristle brush, brush on a thin coat, with lots of brush strokes to spread it out. Apply at least 5 coats that way, giving it 24 hours to dry between coats. Don't varnish late in the day or if it will get rained on later. It helps to do a light sanding between coats. Cetol looks nice but eventually turns an opaque brown, like cheap plastic. It will permanently stain teak wherever it can seep into endgrain. Even Jasco and hard sanding will not remove it. Varnish can always be stripped. If you sand and then apply 1 or 2 coats every 6 months, a varnish finish will always be bristol.
Good advice from BaySailor....
When I was a former varnish-aholic I used to rub SPF30+ sunscreen on my varnish to retard the surface wood cell destruction by UV. I've since been using a product calle Honey Teak (www.signuaturefinish.com) and so far its lasted 7 years ... and looks 'close' to a good varnish. Signature finish will split and sell you 'just enough' for your job ... it is expensive but when you amoritize it through all that time it comes out the least expensive. Baysailor has it right about Cetol ... eventually it will turn to an 'ugly butterscotch' and when you try to remove it a LOT of wood surface will come off with it .. even if you use chemical strippers.
When I was a former varnish-aholic I used to rub SPF30+ sunscreen on my varnish to retard the surface wood cell destruction by UV. I've since been using a product calle Honey Teak (www.signuaturefinish.com) and so far its lasted 7 years ... and looks 'close' to a good varnish. Signature finish will split and sell you 'just enough' for your job ... it is expensive but when you amoritize it through all that time it comes out the least expensive. Baysailor has it right about Cetol ... eventually it will turn to an 'ugly butterscotch' and when you try to remove it a LOT of wood surface will come off with it .. even if you use chemical strippers.
Yes, you can oil your tiller.
EOM. BTW.... I just redid all my wood using the new flavor of cetol, "teak" and I am very happy with it. Tim
EOM. BTW.... I just redid all my wood using the new flavor of cetol, "teak" and I am very happy with it. Tim
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