Folks,
I've been slowly working through the exterior teak on the boat. I had done a lot of reading and, after seeing what folks on the wooden boat forums suggested (figuring they ought to have enough experience to know!) I decided, after using a teak cleaner, to treat the wood with CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer), finishing with coats of Detco Crystal varnish. I started with the drop boards and was so pleased with the look after multiple applications of the CPES, that I put them back in service without the Detco. I'll eventually post some before and after pics. They've only been exposed to the weather for a month, so it'll be a while before I can tell you how it really holds up. Be aware that the CPES, like a lot of products, will darken the wood somewhat. Also note that they make two versions, depending on the temperature you'll be using it in. Pretty potent fumes, too!
http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html
Anyhow, I'm about to do the same to the cabin-top hand rails. I have the starboard rail off (could not get at the nut under the cabin grab rail - my little Ryobi 18V impact driver saved the day there). Off course, all the wooden dowel inserts are almost completely rotted away. I read Bob M's thread about replacing his back in the spring of 2010. Bob, any updates or reflections on what material you'd use now? Did you cut them flush with the stainless tubes?
I've also got the situation where there's a bit of a berm around each bolt head, where the nearby material had been sanded away. I think Bob recommended countersinking more deeply, rather than sanding the ridge flat, but it seems like sanding, then countersinking, would lead you to the same place.
Any tips on getting these back in place, securely and well-sealed to the cabin top, would be appreciated. I've got rolls of non-hardening butyl tape (I'll try to find the link to that source) that I'll probably use as sealant between the new dowels and the deck.
Here it is:
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117172
John
I've been slowly working through the exterior teak on the boat. I had done a lot of reading and, after seeing what folks on the wooden boat forums suggested (figuring they ought to have enough experience to know!) I decided, after using a teak cleaner, to treat the wood with CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer), finishing with coats of Detco Crystal varnish. I started with the drop boards and was so pleased with the look after multiple applications of the CPES, that I put them back in service without the Detco. I'll eventually post some before and after pics. They've only been exposed to the weather for a month, so it'll be a while before I can tell you how it really holds up. Be aware that the CPES, like a lot of products, will darken the wood somewhat. Also note that they make two versions, depending on the temperature you'll be using it in. Pretty potent fumes, too!
http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html
Anyhow, I'm about to do the same to the cabin-top hand rails. I have the starboard rail off (could not get at the nut under the cabin grab rail - my little Ryobi 18V impact driver saved the day there). Off course, all the wooden dowel inserts are almost completely rotted away. I read Bob M's thread about replacing his back in the spring of 2010. Bob, any updates or reflections on what material you'd use now? Did you cut them flush with the stainless tubes?
I've also got the situation where there's a bit of a berm around each bolt head, where the nearby material had been sanded away. I think Bob recommended countersinking more deeply, rather than sanding the ridge flat, but it seems like sanding, then countersinking, would lead you to the same place.
Any tips on getting these back in place, securely and well-sealed to the cabin top, would be appreciated. I've got rolls of non-hardening butyl tape (I'll try to find the link to that source) that I'll probably use as sealant between the new dowels and the deck.
Here it is:
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117172
John
