Does anyone have a name and/or address for the place to buy this new product discussed in Practical Sailor sometime in the last year. Thanks!
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B
Brian Pickton
Nope
Dec.4, 2000 Dear Bill, My Practical Sailor subscription expired 4 years ago when we sailed away, so I'm afaid I don't know which tape you are talking about. On the other hand you don't necessrily have to chase the latest whizzbang to get a good result. I can tell you that I have had very good success masking around our teak handrails with 3M blue and 3M green masking tape. We found the former can be left on for 48 hours without leaving a residue and the later about 5 days. I hope this helps, and in the meantime, have you considered contacting Practical Sailor and asking? Brian Pickton@BeneteauOwners.net Aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Dec.4, 2000 Dear Bill, My Practical Sailor subscription expired 4 years ago when we sailed away, so I'm afaid I don't know which tape you are talking about. On the other hand you don't necessrily have to chase the latest whizzbang to get a good result. I can tell you that I have had very good success masking around our teak handrails with 3M blue and 3M green masking tape. We found the former can be left on for 48 hours without leaving a residue and the later about 5 days. I hope this helps, and in the meantime, have you considered contacting Practical Sailor and asking? Brian Pickton@BeneteauOwners.net Aboard The Legend, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
D
Dan Ebert
R
Roger Noble
M
mg
good brush
buy a really good quality 1 1/2- 2 inch china bristle shash ( with the bevelled edge) brush and you will not need to mask . if the varnish is running you are putting it on too heavy. i have yet to read a good book on how to use a brush properly . i will try to write something up here later on what i was taught by an old time painter. mg
buy a really good quality 1 1/2- 2 inch china bristle shash ( with the bevelled edge) brush and you will not need to mask . if the varnish is running you are putting it on too heavy. i have yet to read a good book on how to use a brush properly . i will try to write something up here later on what i was taught by an old time painter. mg
E
Ed Schenck
How about the other way?
Painting the deck and not first removing the teak? Would you mask or go freehand? My grab rails are teak and there is a teak trimstrip on the side of the trunk. My plan was to remove, serious labor!
Painting the deck and not first removing the teak? Would you mask or go freehand? My grab rails are teak and there is a teak trimstrip on the side of the trunk. My plan was to remove, serious labor!
M
mattmansh@yahoo.com
brush handling
ok here goes. first the basics "hold a brush between your thumb and all 4 fingers" at the heal and on the metal part, with the sash parallel to your fingers (long on top) " you got to get the paint, varnish, or substance on and in the brush" if its not on the brush you can,t get it on the surface. the best technique is to dip the brush about 1/3 the length of the bristles into the paint. and then gently slap the brush against the side of the bucket 2 times. this does two things . 1, you dont put as many bubbles in the paint and 2, you have twice as much paint on the brush to place on the surface .( this allows you to paint further and allows for a better leading edge which will help you not have "laps" )now paint something that is NOT what you really want to paint ( you are preparing the brush for the actual application process plus getting a feel for the paint , if its to thick or thin now is a better time to find it out that when you start on the bootstripe and it runs down to the bottom of the keel) empty the brush meaning spread the paint out and dip again .repeat and now you are ready to do the actual application "you need a paint resevoir" this is accomplished for 2 reasons . 1 after a dip and slap there is too much paint on the brush and the leading edge of the bristles are WET , you need to DRY off one side AND the top of the bristles. this means you can touch the brush and not actually apply any paint. remember the paint flows from a the inside to the outside. i dry off the brush a few brush widths away from the wet lap . this means i have plenty of paint in the brush for the first part and some extra when the brush starts to empty. (real world application; imagine you are cutting the ceiling in the living room , dip a 3" brush and unload the paint on the top of the brush and left side about 12' form the wall. go to the corner and dab 2 times and move the paint up into the corner and along the ceiling at a 60 degree angle or so . you should be touching the ceiling with the top of the brush with no paint getting on the ceiling. as you paint along the brush will dry out and when it does you will be right by the resevoir to continue the edge and finish the stroke . dip and repeat. works the same to wall trim too.practice and you wont tape again!!! "keep the brush clean " after about 6-8 loads you will need to clean the excess paint out of the heel of the brush . do it the way you want to on the edge of the can and on all four sides , start again.(notice a diference in the paint stroke? you should and now you know the importance of having the brush loaded with just the right amount of paint.) "work the paint to the edge" meaning the resevoir will be an inch or so away from the edge or line you are cutting. start back and move the paint forward that way you dont have too much paint at the edge. try a straight line on a board and practice painting up to it, you should be able to get a line with about three strokes and draw it out as far as possible NEVER lap back into a line it will screw you up every time wait to touch up later. " let the brush do the work" that is a light touch is all that is required if you start to dry up at a crucial time press GENTLY to release more paint out of the brush. finally "practice wiggling the brush . i dont really know how to explain this just get the brush a little dry and try short wiggle movements with your wristas you move into a corner or edge. you will see what to do next. im not convinced there is that much of an art to brush handling but it does take practice to get a really good line , cut or finish. i hear a lot of "wow ,you really can paint!" ALWAYS use a top quality brush . if you are not saying "MAN THATS A LOT FOR A BRUSH " then it is not the right one to use . you should be paying $16 and uup for good brushes but they are worth every penny and will last for years. hope this helps . mg
ok here goes. first the basics "hold a brush between your thumb and all 4 fingers" at the heal and on the metal part, with the sash parallel to your fingers (long on top) " you got to get the paint, varnish, or substance on and in the brush" if its not on the brush you can,t get it on the surface. the best technique is to dip the brush about 1/3 the length of the bristles into the paint. and then gently slap the brush against the side of the bucket 2 times. this does two things . 1, you dont put as many bubbles in the paint and 2, you have twice as much paint on the brush to place on the surface .( this allows you to paint further and allows for a better leading edge which will help you not have "laps" )now paint something that is NOT what you really want to paint ( you are preparing the brush for the actual application process plus getting a feel for the paint , if its to thick or thin now is a better time to find it out that when you start on the bootstripe and it runs down to the bottom of the keel) empty the brush meaning spread the paint out and dip again .repeat and now you are ready to do the actual application "you need a paint resevoir" this is accomplished for 2 reasons . 1 after a dip and slap there is too much paint on the brush and the leading edge of the bristles are WET , you need to DRY off one side AND the top of the bristles. this means you can touch the brush and not actually apply any paint. remember the paint flows from a the inside to the outside. i dry off the brush a few brush widths away from the wet lap . this means i have plenty of paint in the brush for the first part and some extra when the brush starts to empty. (real world application; imagine you are cutting the ceiling in the living room , dip a 3" brush and unload the paint on the top of the brush and left side about 12' form the wall. go to the corner and dab 2 times and move the paint up into the corner and along the ceiling at a 60 degree angle or so . you should be touching the ceiling with the top of the brush with no paint getting on the ceiling. as you paint along the brush will dry out and when it does you will be right by the resevoir to continue the edge and finish the stroke . dip and repeat. works the same to wall trim too.practice and you wont tape again!!! "keep the brush clean " after about 6-8 loads you will need to clean the excess paint out of the heel of the brush . do it the way you want to on the edge of the can and on all four sides , start again.(notice a diference in the paint stroke? you should and now you know the importance of having the brush loaded with just the right amount of paint.) "work the paint to the edge" meaning the resevoir will be an inch or so away from the edge or line you are cutting. start back and move the paint forward that way you dont have too much paint at the edge. try a straight line on a board and practice painting up to it, you should be able to get a line with about three strokes and draw it out as far as possible NEVER lap back into a line it will screw you up every time wait to touch up later. " let the brush do the work" that is a light touch is all that is required if you start to dry up at a crucial time press GENTLY to release more paint out of the brush. finally "practice wiggling the brush . i dont really know how to explain this just get the brush a little dry and try short wiggle movements with your wristas you move into a corner or edge. you will see what to do next. im not convinced there is that much of an art to brush handling but it does take practice to get a really good line , cut or finish. i hear a lot of "wow ,you really can paint!" ALWAYS use a top quality brush . if you are not saying "MAN THATS A LOT FOR A BRUSH " then it is not the right one to use . you should be paying $16 and uup for good brushes but they are worth every penny and will last for years. hope this helps . mg
K
Ken Palmer
Ed, I used tape
I painted the non-skid areas on my H33 a couple years ago. I used blue masking tape on areas where I didn't feel comfortable doing it freehand. I have a pretty steady hand, and it's easy wiping an area if you accidentally get paint where it doesn't belong. I did not paint the white area where the teak trim is located on the side of the cabin, only the gray non-skid. I rolled on most of the paint, using a brush around the edges and to feather the rolled areas where needed. It turned out to be a pretty easy job, and would not hesitate advising you to go ahead and paint without removing the teak. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
I painted the non-skid areas on my H33 a couple years ago. I used blue masking tape on areas where I didn't feel comfortable doing it freehand. I have a pretty steady hand, and it's easy wiping an area if you accidentally get paint where it doesn't belong. I did not paint the white area where the teak trim is located on the side of the cabin, only the gray non-skid. I rolled on most of the paint, using a brush around the edges and to feather the rolled areas where needed. It turned out to be a pretty easy job, and would not hesitate advising you to go ahead and paint without removing the teak. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
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