Teak Finish Material
- Thread starter Solemn Silence
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Sea Fin oil
On the older boats gave a pint of Sea Fin oil to wipe on the wood,Hunter also gave me the same pint of sea fin oil for the walls which is a teak veener.
The wall at the compion way down the steps is a laminate and so is the floor every thing else is veener teak wook and all the trim wood is real teak.
I have used sea fin oil from Hunter and marine teak oil on the real teak trim and also the veener walls,I don't really remember what the new Hunters at miami boat show last year but will check in a few weeks at the miami boat show this Feb 16-20.
Nick
On the older boats gave a pint of Sea Fin oil to wipe on the wood,Hunter also gave me the same pint of sea fin oil for the walls which is a teak veener.
The wall at the compion way down the steps is a laminate and so is the floor every thing else is veener teak wook and all the trim wood is real teak.
I have used sea fin oil from Hunter and marine teak oil on the real teak trim and also the veener walls,I don't really remember what the new Hunters at miami boat show last year but will check in a few weeks at the miami boat show this Feb 16-20.
Nick
a couple of thoughts
If you use the teak oil you can end up with lots of mold if you don't ventelate the cabin during winter storage. You also end up with discoloration from sun around and underneith the hatches/ports.
I've found that 10+ coats of polyurathain (external with UV inhibitors) has worked great on my veneer salon table. Looks like glass, repells the water from the mast base leak (going on 3 years now with no sign of a problem except for the dirt left after the water evaporates/runs off)(Cleans right off with a wet rag), has no sign of discoloration. I went ahead and did a section of the galley with poly and a section with oil and the poly is much easier to keep up. the oil is a recuring task, poly is a one time task which you can break down into sections. Once done it is done.
Make sure you get complete coverage though. I used poly on a piece of exterior trim (slider handle) but only used 3 coats and a year later it was peeling. I'd say 5 is the minimum number of coats needed for a long term solution with more being better.
A couple of thoughts:
If you use the teak oil you can end up with lots of mold if you don't ventilate the cabin during winter storage. You also end up with discoloration from sun around and underneath the hatches/ports.
I've found that 10+ coats of polyurethane (external with UV inhibitors) has worked great on my veneer salon table. Looks like glass, repels the water from the mast base leak (going on 3 years now with no sign of a problem except for the dirt left after the water evaporates/runs off)(Cleans right off with a wet rag), has no sign of discoloration. I went ahead and did a section of the galley with poly and a section with oil and the poly is much easier to keep up. The oil is a recurring task, poly is a onetime task which you can break down into sections. Once done it is done.
Make sure you get complete coverage though. I used poly on a piece of exterior trim (slider handle) but only used 3 coats and a year later it was peeling. I'd say 5 is the minimum number of coats needed for a long term solution with more being better.
If you use the teak oil you can end up with lots of mold if you don't ventelate the cabin during winter storage. You also end up with discoloration from sun around and underneith the hatches/ports.
I've found that 10+ coats of polyurathain (external with UV inhibitors) has worked great on my veneer salon table. Looks like glass, repells the water from the mast base leak (going on 3 years now with no sign of a problem except for the dirt left after the water evaporates/runs off)(Cleans right off with a wet rag), has no sign of discoloration. I went ahead and did a section of the galley with poly and a section with oil and the poly is much easier to keep up. the oil is a recuring task, poly is a one time task which you can break down into sections. Once done it is done.
Make sure you get complete coverage though. I used poly on a piece of exterior trim (slider handle) but only used 3 coats and a year later it was peeling. I'd say 5 is the minimum number of coats needed for a long term solution with more being better.
A couple of thoughts:
If you use the teak oil you can end up with lots of mold if you don't ventilate the cabin during winter storage. You also end up with discoloration from sun around and underneath the hatches/ports.
I've found that 10+ coats of polyurethane (external with UV inhibitors) has worked great on my veneer salon table. Looks like glass, repels the water from the mast base leak (going on 3 years now with no sign of a problem except for the dirt left after the water evaporates/runs off)(Cleans right off with a wet rag), has no sign of discoloration. I went ahead and did a section of the galley with poly and a section with oil and the poly is much easier to keep up. The oil is a recurring task, poly is a onetime task which you can break down into sections. Once done it is done.
Make sure you get complete coverage though. I used poly on a piece of exterior trim (slider handle) but only used 3 coats and a year later it was peeling. I'd say 5 is the minimum number of coats needed for a long term solution with more being better.
Only other explanation he offered, possibly is that one was a one-off where they ran out of material and substitued to get it out for the show.
I have a video from the boat show and I shot that area specifically... let me look at it again and see if it is clear enough. It was pretty dark in the boat so I am not sure how visible it will be. If it is clear enough, I will post it.
OK, here is the link to the video on youtube. http://youtu.be/kZKYNDEI9wE
For anyone who has done veneer work AND laminate work, there is a clear answer here as to what the material is.
This boat was shot on January 14th, 2012 at the Cleveland Boat Show. It is the new Hunter 33
For anyone who has done veneer work AND laminate work, there is a clear answer here as to what the material is.
This boat was shot on January 14th, 2012 at the Cleveland Boat Show. It is the new Hunter 33
I'm still not convinced. Your video is not clear enough to see. All I can see is a vertical joint, which could be between 2 pieces of veneer over plywood.
My background is construction, ( gutted and redid our entire kitchen and family room including all electrical, plumbing, etc. etc. ) I also do a considerable amount of woodworking, and have worked with veneer plywood.
Scott, not a joint...an overlapping piece. Glued on. I also come from construction, in my early years I worked for a commercial builder. I have built 2 houses of my own, entirely by myself, from concrete to finish trim and cabinetry, and I am here to tell you, "Laminate".
The piece in the video is from the door trim extending to the right about 2 inches. Yes, you can see the seam vertically from floor to ceiling. This is not a flat butt joint of two pieces, but rather, the 2 inch piece is laid "Over top" of the first piece. No joint. Additionally, if this were veneer, with an exposed edge from ceiling to floor, how long do you think that edge would last? An exposed veneer (millimeters thick) running vertically, with people touching it and rubbing on it would last about 15 minutes.
I agree that the older boats are veneer...my 84 included. I am also not saying ALL new Hunters are laminate, because I simply do not know... but what I can tell you is that THIS particular 33 has laminate on the walls. I was told by my dealer that the E36 that they have also has laminate on the walls.
As far as Eddie saying it could have been a "One Off" for the show... No way. Yes, they do custom work, I agree...but not rushing to get a boat put together with laminate of all things.... just to get it to the show... Also, this particular one is out of dealer stock here in Ohio...
Now, just to be clear.... I am personally "OK" with this. Real wood does require maintenance... so this is a great answer. I am doing my entire boat in "Oiled Cherry" laminate. My boat showed its age, scratches, gouges etc... so this was a logical answer to update my boat to have a look of something newer. By installing laminate on all of my surfaces, does it make my boat a "Plastic" boat... yes, it does. But, with me having 2 kids, 5 and 2 years old fingering and scratching everything up, it is the closest to bullet proof I could come up with. I totally agree that "TEAK" is the nautical wood of choice, and if you have a boat built with it, it is beautiful and "Genuine" But, if Hunter is doing this on some newer models, I am sure it is simply to keep cost down, not only during the manufacturing stage, but from a purchase standpoint, as well as lower the maintenance required by its owners.
These are just my own personal observations and not meant to be offensive, as I love my Hunter with or without laminate....
The piece in the video is from the door trim extending to the right about 2 inches. Yes, you can see the seam vertically from floor to ceiling. This is not a flat butt joint of two pieces, but rather, the 2 inch piece is laid "Over top" of the first piece. No joint. Additionally, if this were veneer, with an exposed edge from ceiling to floor, how long do you think that edge would last? An exposed veneer (millimeters thick) running vertically, with people touching it and rubbing on it would last about 15 minutes.
I agree that the older boats are veneer...my 84 included. I am also not saying ALL new Hunters are laminate, because I simply do not know... but what I can tell you is that THIS particular 33 has laminate on the walls. I was told by my dealer that the E36 that they have also has laminate on the walls.
As far as Eddie saying it could have been a "One Off" for the show... No way. Yes, they do custom work, I agree...but not rushing to get a boat put together with laminate of all things.... just to get it to the show... Also, this particular one is out of dealer stock here in Ohio...
Now, just to be clear.... I am personally "OK" with this. Real wood does require maintenance... so this is a great answer. I am doing my entire boat in "Oiled Cherry" laminate. My boat showed its age, scratches, gouges etc... so this was a logical answer to update my boat to have a look of something newer. By installing laminate on all of my surfaces, does it make my boat a "Plastic" boat... yes, it does. But, with me having 2 kids, 5 and 2 years old fingering and scratching everything up, it is the closest to bullet proof I could come up with. I totally agree that "TEAK" is the nautical wood of choice, and if you have a boat built with it, it is beautiful and "Genuine" But, if Hunter is doing this on some newer models, I am sure it is simply to keep cost down, not only during the manufacturing stage, but from a purchase standpoint, as well as lower the maintenance required by its owners.
These are just my own personal observations and not meant to be offensive, as I love my Hunter with or without laminate....
Maybe we should re-lable laminate as formica type material.
Veneers have been used in boats for many years. They are also very common in furniture too. The teak & holly sole on our older boats are also veneers (except on higher end boats). Depending on the species of wood, veneers can be more stable to prevent warping.
Veneers don't work too good when you need to sand them. That can be a major problem depending on the condition. I think that is why we so many fellow sailors replacing their cabin soles.
Veneers have been used in boats for many years. They are also very common in furniture too. The teak & holly sole on our older boats are also veneers (except on higher end boats). Depending on the species of wood, veneers can be more stable to prevent warping.
Veneers don't work too good when you need to sand them. That can be a major problem depending on the condition. I think that is why we so many fellow sailors replacing their cabin soles.
Steve...Exactly... it's just that I don't think people want to here the term "Formica" when you think of a boat interior. "Laminate" might be a little more politically correct???? I am using Pionite brand on my boat, same as Formica...just a different brand name.
In addition, not sure how eager people are to read "Made With Genuine Formica" in the sales literature. I for one, support it.
In addition, not sure how eager people are to read "Made With Genuine Formica" in the sales literature. I for one, support it.
Brian: We used WilsonArt on our table. It looks great.
http://www.cabinetparts.com/g/nepal-teak-laminate-pattern-wilsonart/
PS: What is the difference, they call the entire boat a "plastic tub"
http://www.cabinetparts.com/g/nepal-teak-laminate-pattern-wilsonart/
PS: What is the difference, they call the entire boat a "plastic tub"
I did see that..it does look great!. I agree... Plastic Tub !.... Will be posting pics of the redesign and refit of mine soon... repairs done and construction underway. My sole has never been refinished so I was able to very carefully sand it down... it looks amazing... building the port and starboard setee's tonight
That would be one of the first things on the punch list. Absurd to release or show a boat like that. Reminds me of a new Ford displayed at a concours that had the trunk liner hanging down and trim unstuck. Does little for the confidence.
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