teak deck caulk

[bletso]

What is the general consensus on the various caulks out there. My boat originally had two-part polysulfide when I bought her. I re-caulked the main deck with Teak Decking sys-440 and I must say I am not impressed. I got less than 7 years out of it and it needs redone again. I have to admit that leaving a boat exposed, uncovered and unused on the hard in KY didn't help a bit. Winters are cold, wet constant freezing thawing asks a lot of any material and the summers are at time infernal.

The two part appears to cost about twice what the one part caulks cost, but if it lasts twice as long it would be worth it. Last year we finally covered the boat with working space under shrink plastic and that has helped a lot and gives me a stable dry environment.

Don't ask how one can let a boat get into the shape in the 1st pic. But since last year I have given at least a day a week to revamp the poor old girl. I am now ready to start the deck re-caulking when the heat abates a little.

 

[DougM]

It seems like all the caulking materials are ridiculously expensive. I have used "Boat Life" black caulking with varying degrees of success, and my boat is stored in Northern Michigan. It is a poly sulfide one part and remains quite flexible.

Others on this site may have better suggestions and far more expertise

As a side comment, I really don't think that seven years is that bad of a life expectancy for deck caulking overall. Granted, longer would be better.

 

[twdevore]

I'm in the investigational stage of deciding which caulking to replace also. Practical sailor did a long term comparison back in 2008. It's the best study we've seen to date. If anyone finds a more current study, please let us know.

 

[RichH]

I prefer TDS caulk ... but when recaulking, that wood HAS to be 'bone dry'.
I also use SEMCO to protect the deck from UV damage and erosion, .... and without loss of wet traction.

As the owner of a 'teak farm' ... what I see in your pic #1 is that the caulking has become 'proud' (higher) than the base wood strake; the teak decking has become eroded or you've used strong 'etchants' in the past. Once the caulking becomes 'higher' than the wood is it subject to become easily 'torn' from the sides of the strakes just by a twisting foot or by someone scuffing/dragging their foot across the 'proud' caulking. For such a deck still in good shape, to solve a lot of unneeded re-caulking I take a very sharp chisel and 'level' the proud caulking back to 'even' with the teak - simpler, faster than 'sanding' and it doesnt remove any teak.

A screwed down teak deck will 'move around' a lot during thermal swings, and, if you dont have a suitable 'bond breaker' in the bottom of those grooves when you apply new caulk for when the deck does 'move', such movement can/will rip the caulk from the sides of the grooves.

 

[bletso]

Well i had used some cleaning agents years ago, most of the damage was done before we bought her. I did re-caulk her, then things just got in the way. I just left her with the caulking proud figuring I get it the next spring. Of course water pools and ice tears and time does its thing. I must admit that the section I finished back then did hold up well.

TDS is definitely easier to work with.