I have just completed a new teak enclosure. The new teak looks much more brown and the original looks much more red. I tried some Seafin on a teststrip of the new and also some reddish colored furniture oil. Neither one of them brings the new teak to an acceptable match. Does anyone have some experience or expertise to share on getting a descent match? thanks, Mike D
- Status
Try Lemon Oil
I used Starbrite Lemon Oil on my raw wood enclosure. Try a test strip to see if it matches yours. Got it from West Marine. If not take it back. Jeff
I used Starbrite Lemon Oil on my raw wood enclosure. Try a test strip to see if it matches yours. Got it from West Marine. If not take it back. Jeff
Attachments
I've had to use mahogany to match
I've had to use mahogany to match before. I know you don't want to redo your enclosure. I use an african teak that is blonder and lighter than burma teak and I still can't get it to match. Maybey try some red stain to help. If its too dark you can't lighten it up. Tim Welsh H34 AKA Cabo Wabo
I've had to use mahogany to match before. I know you don't want to redo your enclosure. I use an african teak that is blonder and lighter than burma teak and I still can't get it to match. Maybey try some red stain to help. If its too dark you can't lighten it up. Tim Welsh H34 AKA Cabo Wabo
Yup!
Get a couple of the very small cans of Minwax wood stain. A little goes a long way. You will need a can of 'Red Mahogony' and a can of 'Jacobean'. Jacobean is a very dark stain, almost black, but with a fair amount of red dye in it. I also use 'Special Walnut' as a toner, this is a medium to light brown. Start with the Red on a piece of scrap and oil/varnish (however you are finishing your project) over it when dry...That should do it. If it is still very light, but a good color match the Jacobean will darken it while adding a touch of brown. If it is only slightly light, the Special Walnut will shade it a little darker without much change in color. In a worst case situation, You can get red analine dye from www.woodworker.com, but I've only had to resort to that when dealing with sapwood (someone else's project that I had to fix because they didn't select their wood properly). I save the little tubs from Crystal Light, just for matching stains in small batches. The small disposable Glad Storage containers are good for mixing larger batches once you have the ratio right. If you save those small tubs that food comes in, they work fine, but you can't store the stain in them as the solvents may eventually do in the plastic. I've been doing this long enough now, that on smaller jobs, I'll just wipe one color over another directly onto the wood to get the tone I want. The trick to this is having a clean, lint-free cotton cloth soaked with mineral spirits handy in order to 'erase' a bad choice.
Get a couple of the very small cans of Minwax wood stain. A little goes a long way. You will need a can of 'Red Mahogony' and a can of 'Jacobean'. Jacobean is a very dark stain, almost black, but with a fair amount of red dye in it. I also use 'Special Walnut' as a toner, this is a medium to light brown. Start with the Red on a piece of scrap and oil/varnish (however you are finishing your project) over it when dry...That should do it. If it is still very light, but a good color match the Jacobean will darken it while adding a touch of brown. If it is only slightly light, the Special Walnut will shade it a little darker without much change in color. In a worst case situation, You can get red analine dye from www.woodworker.com, but I've only had to resort to that when dealing with sapwood (someone else's project that I had to fix because they didn't select their wood properly). I save the little tubs from Crystal Light, just for matching stains in small batches. The small disposable Glad Storage containers are good for mixing larger batches once you have the ratio right. If you save those small tubs that food comes in, they work fine, but you can't store the stain in them as the solvents may eventually do in the plastic. I've been doing this long enough now, that on smaller jobs, I'll just wipe one color over another directly onto the wood to get the tone I want. The trick to this is having a clean, lint-free cotton cloth soaked with mineral spirits handy in order to 'erase' a bad choice.
UV
Hi Mike - I've noticed on my boat that any teak areas that are usually protected from UV (i.e. behind cushions, inside drawers) are considerably darker than those that are exposed. UV rays will lighten teak over time. I suggest that the colors will gradually become closer over time, but it sounds like Chris Burti has some good ideas if you don't want to wait. Best, Trevor
Hi Mike - I've noticed on my boat that any teak areas that are usually protected from UV (i.e. behind cushions, inside drawers) are considerably darker than those that are exposed. UV rays will lighten teak over time. I suggest that the colors will gradually become closer over time, but it sounds like Chris Burti has some good ideas if you don't want to wait. Best, Trevor
- Status