I recently bought a sailboat with a teak and holly sole that is going to have to be refinisheded, start to finish. I would appreciate suggestions as to how to refinish my boats sole beginning with stripping, and ending with the final step, whatever that is. It is an older boat with some "character" embedded that may never come out. I have little knowledge in matter such as this. In advance, thank you.
Teak and holly
- Thread starter zzhunter
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Just finished that job
I just finished that job on our H34 (1983). I dont think it had ever been given a good cleaning. I set out to just clean it and gave it a good scrubbing with a strong mixture of TSP ( about 1/3 cup to about 1.5 inches in the bottom of a bucket)I used one of those fiber scrub pads and rinsed it good. You need to rinse and wipe up right away. The stuff that came off looked like I was stripping varnish!! It looks so good I did it again and far less goop came off. Again rinsed good. Let dry and LIGHTLY sanded with about 220 paper on a 1/4 pad sander. Light touch and dont stay in one spot too long. I tried to give the Holly stripes a bit extra as they are harder and I wanted them to show lighter It looked so good I applied 4 coats of Dalys Profin Satin. I followed the instructions on the can, wiping the first 2 coats on. I applied the last 2 coats with out wiping. It looks really good- the holly stripes have a nice ivory look and the teak is a darker reddish brown more like mahogany
I just finished that job on our H34 (1983). I dont think it had ever been given a good cleaning. I set out to just clean it and gave it a good scrubbing with a strong mixture of TSP ( about 1/3 cup to about 1.5 inches in the bottom of a bucket)I used one of those fiber scrub pads and rinsed it good. You need to rinse and wipe up right away. The stuff that came off looked like I was stripping varnish!! It looks so good I did it again and far less goop came off. Again rinsed good. Let dry and LIGHTLY sanded with about 220 paper on a 1/4 pad sander. Light touch and dont stay in one spot too long. I tried to give the Holly stripes a bit extra as they are harder and I wanted them to show lighter It looked so good I applied 4 coats of Dalys Profin Satin. I followed the instructions on the can, wiping the first 2 coats on. I applied the last 2 coats with out wiping. It looks really good- the holly stripes have a nice ivory look and the teak is a darker reddish brown more like mahogany
I used Epiphanes
I used the product that says you don't have to sand between coats. I used the same product for my hand rails and hatchboards. Our boat is 20 years old and the sole looked like it had never been cared for. There was nothing to strip, so I started by sanding. The handrails, hatchboards and bilge covers, I was able to take home to sand with a random orbit sander and they turned out well. The rest of the cabin sole, I sanded by hand because I was too impatient to set up a portable generator for AC power. I think sanding to a good finish was an important step that I didn't get quite right without the power sander. For all, I sanded with 100, 150, and 220 grit. I didn't do a great job on the sole because the fixed sections of the sole came out noticeably darker than the bilge covers that I took home to do even though I put 3 coats on each. I am not very fussy when it comes to these types of finishing touches so I am satisfied with the job even though a fastidious person would probably think the job was not done well. Oh well, at least I pleased the customer.
I used the product that says you don't have to sand between coats. I used the same product for my hand rails and hatchboards. Our boat is 20 years old and the sole looked like it had never been cared for. There was nothing to strip, so I started by sanding. The handrails, hatchboards and bilge covers, I was able to take home to sand with a random orbit sander and they turned out well. The rest of the cabin sole, I sanded by hand because I was too impatient to set up a portable generator for AC power. I think sanding to a good finish was an important step that I didn't get quite right without the power sander. For all, I sanded with 100, 150, and 220 grit. I didn't do a great job on the sole because the fixed sections of the sole came out noticeably darker than the bilge covers that I took home to do even though I put 3 coats on each. I am not very fussy when it comes to these types of finishing touches so I am satisfied with the job even though a fastidious person would probably think the job was not done well. Oh well, at least I pleased the customer.
2nd for Ultimate Sole
Nice looking when finished and it claims to have non-slip characteristics. Good enough web site.
Nice looking when finished and it claims to have non-slip characteristics. Good enough web site.
Remove Dents
If you have dents in the wood you can remove them after sanding by placing a wet towel on the wood then place a hot iron on towel for a few seconds and keep repeating and most dents will come out.
If you have dents in the wood you can remove them after sanding by placing a wet towel on the wood then place a hot iron on towel for a few seconds and keep repeating and most dents will come out.
Rick what are the things to look for using that
method? You know, do you scrap out the finish over the dent? How wet, how big of a towel, how hot a iron, how to protect adjoining wood? You know, How? As soon as you reply, I'm off to try it.
method? You know, do you scrap out the finish over the dent? How wet, how big of a towel, how hot a iron, how to protect adjoining wood? You know, How? As soon as you reply, I'm off to try it.
Tri-Sodium Phosphate
You can buy it at Home Depot (or for twice the price, probably, at West Marine). It comes in powder form and you just mix it with water. I dunno how it works, but it is pretty good on a lot of stuff. BTW, did you folks who re-did your sole pull all the furniture (dinette, settee, kitchen cabinets, etc.) out of the way or just do the exposed areas? Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
You can buy it at Home Depot (or for twice the price, probably, at West Marine). It comes in powder form and you just mix it with water. I dunno how it works, but it is pretty good on a lot of stuff. BTW, did you folks who re-did your sole pull all the furniture (dinette, settee, kitchen cabinets, etc.) out of the way or just do the exposed areas? Cheers, Bob s/v X SAIL R 8
Took the easy way
I took the easy way and just did the exposed parts of the floor. It came out with the colour surprisingly even. Maybe all that old dirt protected the wood!! It used to be that Spic and Span was pretty much TSP with some good smelling stuff throrn in. Not sure that is still true after decades of "New and Improved"
I took the easy way and just did the exposed parts of the floor. It came out with the colour surprisingly even. Maybe all that old dirt protected the wood!! It used to be that Spic and Span was pretty much TSP with some good smelling stuff throrn in. Not sure that is still true after decades of "New and Improved"
3rd For Ultimate Sole....
....I put it on my steps in the spring. Still looks great, and whatever they put in it to keep it from being slippery while looking good, works.
....I put it on my steps in the spring. Still looks great, and whatever they put in it to keep it from being slippery while looking good, works.
Fred's answers or not
Fred it is kind of trial and error. First I use the iron on full tilt boody. High in layman's terms. I use a bath towel medium size with maybe 4 to 6 plys against wood. You do not want to hold the iron on the wood long enough to burn wood. I am guessing I hold it on maybe 3 to 5 seconds and repeat until dent comes out. The towel should be wet enough to be dripping with water and should be steaming when you raise iron. Start out conservative and increase time heat until you see results. I have never try this procedure on varnished wood etc. I have always sanded the defective area to allow the water to penetrate. If the wood fiber are cut with a dent it will raise the dented part and help the looks of the wood.
Fred it is kind of trial and error. First I use the iron on full tilt boody. High in layman's terms. I use a bath towel medium size with maybe 4 to 6 plys against wood. You do not want to hold the iron on the wood long enough to burn wood. I am guessing I hold it on maybe 3 to 5 seconds and repeat until dent comes out. The towel should be wet enough to be dripping with water and should be steaming when you raise iron. Start out conservative and increase time heat until you see results. I have never try this procedure on varnished wood etc. I have always sanded the defective area to allow the water to penetrate. If the wood fiber are cut with a dent it will raise the dented part and help the looks of the wood.
Character
Two years ago I refinished this teak cabin sole. Slight discoloration because I failed to bleach it however, I'm still happy with the results. Sanded with 100, 180, then 220 grit (prep). Using tack cloth between each sanding. First coat of varnish cut with 50% mineral spirits, second 30%, third coat 10%, straight varnish fourth coat, and top two coats ultimate sole. Sanded lightly with 220 grit between each coat, wiped with tack cloth, and here's a photo of the results.
Two years ago I refinished this teak cabin sole. Slight discoloration because I failed to bleach it however, I'm still happy with the results. Sanded with 100, 180, then 220 grit (prep). Using tack cloth between each sanding. First coat of varnish cut with 50% mineral spirits, second 30%, third coat 10%, straight varnish fourth coat, and top two coats ultimate sole. Sanded lightly with 220 grit between each coat, wiped with tack cloth, and here's a photo of the results.
Old Boats Character
Most of my guests don't appreciate the work that goes into restoring an old boat, Do the work for the love of the boat. My boat is 20 years old, but a 20 year girl can really be a beautiful work of art, so say I, is the boat.
Most of my guests don't appreciate the work that goes into restoring an old boat, Do the work for the love of the boat. My boat is 20 years old, but a 20 year girl can really be a beautiful work of art, so say I, is the boat.
Where can I get teak-veneered ply?
The area over the engine compartmetn of my Gulf 32 is terrible becuase the veneer has stripped. What I want to do is replace the teak/holley veneered ply surface. the chipboard main part of the board is still OK. thanks JW
The area over the engine compartmetn of my Gulf 32 is terrible becuase the veneer has stripped. What I want to do is replace the teak/holley veneered ply surface. the chipboard main part of the board is still OK. thanks JW
Try H and L Marine in SoCal
I think they are in Rancho Dominquiz. They do OEM woodwork as well as custom and accessory. If shipping is prohibitive, they can likely advise you on some leads for island providers. They are helpful. I find their listing on the web, but was unable to locate their site, altho I know they do have one. Rick D.
I think they are in Rancho Dominquiz. They do OEM woodwork as well as custom and accessory. If shipping is prohibitive, they can likely advise you on some leads for island providers. They are helpful. I find their listing on the web, but was unable to locate their site, altho I know they do have one. Rick D.
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