I was washing the boat and the eye for the traveler came out and was completely loose. I'm wondering if I can just move it up like the other side was done by previous owner. I looked with a scope from harbor freight through the drain hole and I couldn't see anything helpful like a block. I seemed to be looking at encased foam perhaps. Shined a flashlight through the holes and cannot see it from the inside. Just didn't know if I need to cut a hole and put a block in, if so I probably need to find someone who knows what they're doing. Thanks for the help everyone!
Taveler eye loose
- Thread starter Reubels
- Start date
If you have access on the other side I’d say to through bolt it instead of just those wood screws.
I’d also overdrill the holes, fill with some epoxy, then redrill for the screws or through-bolts. That should help keep the fasteners in place (if using screws), prevent core compression (if through-bolting), and prevent water from seeping into the core. It adds a little more time to the fix, but it’s not a hard project.
I’d also overdrill the holes, fill with some epoxy, then redrill for the screws or through-bolts. That should help keep the fasteners in place (if using screws), prevent core compression (if through-bolting), and prevent water from seeping into the core. It adds a little more time to the fix, but it’s not a hard project.
Thanks for the reply, only access to the other side is through the drain hole which is the size of a penny. So no access unless I cut a large hole in the boat. Does anyone know if blocks are not necessary or if they are somehow built in, perhaps ecased in fiberglass?
You could try the "butterfly" style fasteners one uses when mounting things to a wall. The hole would have to be enlarged, of course, to get the apparatus inserted, but they are quite strong. If you can find a stainless steel one, for sure it would work.
Otherwise, simply drill a new set of holes. Relocating the piece a few inches won't affect boat performance.
By the way, use self-tapping sheet metal screws. There should be a drill size chart at the screw counter, or maybe on the container. The right size hole is important to insure a good thread bite.
On other option is to use SS pop rivets. But you need a good rivet tool for the larger SS rivets... so the self tapping screws are the least expensive way to go.
Otherwise, simply drill a new set of holes. Relocating the piece a few inches won't affect boat performance.
By the way, use self-tapping sheet metal screws. There should be a drill size chart at the screw counter, or maybe on the container. The right size hole is important to insure a good thread bite.
On other option is to use SS pop rivets. But you need a good rivet tool for the larger SS rivets... so the self tapping screws are the least expensive way to go.
You need to reinforce the deck. @Joe ’s idea of thickened epoxy will help you accomplish this.
Then you can drill a hole and insert a rivet nut. The insert expands into the epoxy and provides a way to screw on your eye strap using a machine screw. .
All of this can be accomplished from above the deck.
Then you can drill a hole and insert a rivet nut. The insert expands into the epoxy and provides a way to screw on your eye strap using a machine screw. .
All of this can be accomplished from above the deck.
