Taking on water

[Viesail]

I posted a little while back about having rain water in the bilge under the sole in my Hunter 22. I was able to locate the leak, it was the anchor locker drain. Put some 4200 in there and no more water in bilge.

Fast forward 1 month later to present day. I just got the boat in the water for the first time since I bought it late last fall. I rented a slip at a marina for a week and everything seemed to be going ok, except for some motor trouble. I was very concerned with the sink drain thru-hull fitting leaking, and I've been constantly checking it for signs of leakage of which there's been none. However, I neglected to look in the bilge under the sole until tonight as I was investigating the installation of a bilge pump. Bam, water. Trying to figure out if it's brackish or rain water, it just rained today. But there was no rain leaks the week prior to launching... which makes me think I'm leaking from... what? The keel bolts?

So I thought maybe the anchor locker was leaking again, but it's not. However, the transducer is got some wet spots around the threading (picture attached). Does not look like enough water to have filled the bilge, but now I'm freaking. I plan to pull the boat back on the trailer Saturday. Any ideas about the leak?

 

[twodzusfittings]

How is the O ring on the transducer looking. Could need replacement.

 

[Viesail]

I'm going to pull the boat back on the trailer tomorrow. I'll have a look at the transducer then.

Checked the water in the bilge and it's definitely salt. The transducer leak is so minor at the moment that I don't see how it could have contributed to water in the bilge (which was a couple gallons after I pumped it out with shop vac). So I must have a leaky keel bolt situation right? None of the other thru-hull fittings are leaking....

 

[kloudie1]

Viesail, before ya take it out, try to determine if the leak by the transducer is from the external fitting (thru hull) or if it is from the space between the transducer and the tube it goes in..
Crawl into the nether spaces and look at things like cockpit drains, keel bolts, rudder fittings.. do this while still in the water so you have a chance to find the weeping place.. A gallon of leakage in a day is 5 ounces an hour.. a little over half a cup in an hour.. Should be fairly easy to locate .. drain the bilge first then watch to see which end it comes from then go hunting in that end.. Happy hunting !

 

[Viesail]

It's got to be the something with the swing keel. Everything else checks out, and I haven't heeled over enough to run into a problem there. It's only been in the water for a week.

I'm having trouble understanding where and how to address the keel bolt, etc fix. What is the process in removing the swing keel, obviously not something I can do on the trailer right?

 

[Pete R]

I've tasted water for saltiness before. Followed by a lot of spitting.

 

[jassprag]

The swing keel is held in by 4 bolts. you can reseal or replace them on the trailer. It will take 2 people 1 inside and 1 out. Seal them with 4200 it cures faster than 5200.

 

[SeaTR]

If you are going to haul the boat, I’d recommend using beveled neoprene rubber washers on the cabin side of your keel bolts with SS fender washers as backing with torqued down lock nuts. See the following thread for details on dropping your swing keel while on the trailer for inspection, replacement, or reseating your keel bolts.

Need Rudder and swing keel dimensions(1 2 3 ... Last Page)

OBTW, one person CAN do the keel bolt replacement/reseating job ALONE...just use vise grips on the nut in the cabin, clamped and jammed in the direction of rotation, when loosening or tightening the bolts. Then, drive the keel bolt from outside at the keel pivot plate...

I've done this numerous times over the past 4 years working on my salvage boat.
Good luck !

 

[Viesail]

Thank you so much for that thread and info. Been looking all over for something like that.

 

[SeaTR]

Viesail, glad I could help...good luck with your efforts !

Let us know how you make out..

 

[teacher63]

I had the same problem and it turned out simple. It was the companionway hatch. I made a hatch cover that went from bottom of hatch back to almost the mast and bingo, no water no matter how hard it rains or the wind blows. (I used snaps to attach it so no damage was done Also, I did find one of my windows with a small leak. Butyl caulk a screw driver and scrapper and that should be fixed.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

#M makes good sealants. the differences between 4200 and 5200 are substantial. 4200 dries faster and is considered a temporary seal which is easy to come off. 5200 is considered a permanent seal and takes longer to dry which can be up to 7 days.

I have seen items below the wate line been hit and the seal with 4200 did break while 5200 in a way is indestructible. You will find all manufacturers will use 5200 sealant below the water line as they want to make sure nothing moves with no leaks.

Most people do not like 5200 as it is difficult to take off after in some cases 20 years but that in itself is a testimony. Keel bolts in the manner you are describing with use of 4200 under water for me would be questionable because over the years, I removed those bolts cleaning off the 4200 and reapplying 5200 giving time to dry with no complaints afterwards over 40 plus years. One thing I always did was to ovver caulk,tighten up, clean the excess and then let dry for a minim of 5-7 days and never had a complaint.

I have always been an advocate for sealing with 5200 when under water. Some will disagree with me but many professionals and manufactures do agree. However, we can agree to disagree. Happy sailing.

Crazy dave condon

 

[Viesail]

Thanks all, about the start the re-bolting job on my swing keel, hopefully that's were that leak is from. While I'm down there.. Is there a way to check the pivot pin and bushing without dropping the keel? I'm on a trailer and not sure if I can manage raising her up on blocks.

 

[SeaTR]

Well, it depends on the configuration of your trailer...on mine, the answer is YES, I can not inspect without at least jacking up the boat a few inches off the bunks in order to just move the swing keel enough to unbolt, disassemble, and inspect the pivot pin, bushing and SS angle mounting plates.

Many more inches are needed for dropping and removing the swing keel.

Once again, refer to:


Need Rudder and swing keel dimensions(1 2 3 ... Last Page)

...for pictures / descriptions and discussions of the methods I and others use for the H22.

 

[SeaTR]

OBTW...

If you are inclined to use 3M's 5200/4200, I would, as Crazy Dave said, "over caulk,tighten up (BUT ONLY PARTLY TIGHTEN-UP, ALLOW TO DRY, THEN, TIGHTEN UP THE REST OF THE WAY), FINALLY clean the excess.

The reason I do it that way, is that too much of the material gets squeezed out if one torques down all the way initially, but if you only 'snug it up' initially to the point of the material just starting to ooze, then after drying, torque it down and you've created your own gasket which will flex to give a better seal. I use this method for all bedding applications, above or below the water.