Planning to pull the hand rails when the boat goes on the hard for the winter in a couple of weeks. I can see that there are small wooden screw covers that will need to come out, what is the best way to do this. Given the headliner in the cabin I assume they just screw out but if not how do you get to the bolts on the under side?
Taking Hand Rails Off 77 Hunter 30
- Thread starter MLampner
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Just wood screw into the plywood core.
Be sure to put some caulking in those holes so you do not get any water infiltration during the winter months.
Be sure to put some caulking in those holes so you do not get any water infiltration during the winter months.
Good idea, I was thinking of covering them over with tape but caulk would be even better.
Any idea on how to get the wooden plugs out to get at the screws. I assume I could drill them out or set a screw in them and just pull.
Many thanks.
Any idea on how to get the wooden plugs out to get at the screws. I assume I could drill them out or set a screw in them and just pull.
Many thanks.
You can use a small screwdriver or small blade. You essentially need to pick them out. You will need to get new bungs when you reinstall them and they will also need to be trimmed and finished.
Just be careful when removing the bung and "try" not to damage the rail material.
Just be careful when removing the bung and "try" not to damage the rail material.
It helps to use a centerpunch and then a sharp drill bit that is slightly smaller than the bung. As Steve said, just long screws into the coring.
I like to varnish my rails off of the boat. To that end I reinstall my handrails with the screw heads exposed. I glued the bungs in first. Then I drilled the right size hole and countersunk all of the bung tops. I use a longer oval head philips stainless screw. Now it takes about ten minutes to pull the rails. And no more messing with bungs. Purists probably don't like the look. But I have never had anyone even say that they noticed.
I like to varnish my rails off of the boat. To that end I reinstall my handrails with the screw heads exposed. I glued the bungs in first. Then I drilled the right size hole and countersunk all of the bung tops. I use a longer oval head philips stainless screw. Now it takes about ten minutes to pull the rails. And no more messing with bungs. Purists probably don't like the look. But I have never had anyone even say that they noticed.
Many Thanks
Gentlemen many thanks for the advice. A lot of work this winter. Leaking ports and hatches to deal with along with the teak.
Gentlemen many thanks for the advice. A lot of work this winter. Leaking ports and hatches to deal with along with the teak.
I cut the head off of a drywall screw and chucked it in my drill. Drill in the center of the plug and it will come right out. It will be in pieces when it comes out, but new ones are easy and cheap to make or buy. The point of the screw is sharp enough that it shouldn't damage the head of the screw under the plug.
I did all of the work you're talking about on my H30 about five years ago. Lots of elbow grease, but well worth it in the end. If you have any questions, PM me
Dave
I did all of the work you're talking about on my H30 about five years ago. Lots of elbow grease, but well worth it in the end. If you have any questions, PM me
Dave
Nearly forgot about Steve's reminder to caulk the holes. Years ago, when I first decided to redo the non-skid, I strengthened the handrail attachment. I worried about all the discussion of wet coring. So I drilled 3/4" holes where the handrails attached. I epoxied a 2" length of 3/4" hardwood dowel into each of those holes. Fortunately I found very little rotted core. If I had I would have routed out the area with the old bent nail trick and filled first. At any rate I no longer worry about water getting into the coring around the screw holes.
Thanks to All
Appreciate all of the ideas and looking forward to a winter of projects to get it ready for next season. Can hardly believe its almost time to take it off the water.
Appreciate all of the ideas and looking forward to a winter of projects to get it ready for next season. Can hardly believe its almost time to take it off the water.
pulling bungs
When I pull bungs, I just take a coarse thread drywall screw, cut the head off, and stick it on my cordless drill. The put it in forward and the bung will ride up the threads. That way you do not destoy the cut out. Also, look for water intrusion into you holes. Water got into one of mine and it needed work to stabilize (epoxy).
When I pull bungs, I just take a coarse thread drywall screw, cut the head off, and stick it on my cordless drill. The put it in forward and the bung will ride up the threads. That way you do not destoy the cut out. Also, look for water intrusion into you holes. Water got into one of mine and it needed work to stabilize (epoxy).
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