We have moved to a T head and our boat is 47'. Looking at different ways of securing boat as well as round vs cylindrical fenders. Any suggestions?
T Head Slip
- Thread starter omnia470
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Most that tie to T-heads in the Northern Chesapeake use 'dock whips' for 'normal wind' conditions to help keep their boats 'slightly' away from the dock. Just long fiberglass poles angled out over the boat to apply pressure to 'push' or 'spring' the boat away during normal conditions.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10391|296895|826341&id=30092
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10391|296895|826341&id=30092
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Thanks for your quick reply. Wouldn't the whips hit the standing rigging as we entered/exited the slip?
As far as fenders, consider the use of fender boards where the boat might bear on pilings and such. They are much more secure than fenders by themselves.
I moved to a T-head a couple years ago. At risk of stating the obvious, you tie up from only one side, so good secure spring lines are more critical than they may have been in a slip where you can tie up from multiple directions. As for fenders, I've been using three 8"x20" fenders for my 30 footer. If your T-head is located along a busy main channel like mine is, you might consider a few fenders along the traffic side as well.
Thanks! But One More Question....
Thanks everyone for the replies. Any opinions on cylindrical fenders versus round buoy fenders?
Thanks everyone for the replies. Any opinions on cylindrical fenders versus round buoy fenders?
Cylindrical fenders (and fender boards) for docks with open spaces 'under' the decking.
Ball shaped fenders for concrete walls and bulkheads.
The newer very large lightweight very strong inflatable fenders seem to be the 'best' ... the larger the better. Bring your mortgage application along with you when purchasing 'large' fenders.
Ball shaped fenders for concrete walls and bulkheads.
The newer very large lightweight very strong inflatable fenders seem to be the 'best' ... the larger the better. Bring your mortgage application along with you when purchasing 'large' fenders.
Rich is right. If you use the ball fenders on a floating dock, think about it: there is only ONE place on the fender that will work against the dock: the "equator" of the ball. That's why cylindrical OR flat fenders would work better in that case.
Also be aware that Taylor fenders have LIFETIME guarantees. Don't buy anything else.
For cleaning fenders, use Paint Brush and roller cleaner from the hardware store, a lot better and much easier than acetone or any "marine" stuff.
And if you haven't yet, do your homework on learning what breast and spring lines are and how to use them.
Also be aware that Taylor fenders have LIFETIME guarantees. Don't buy anything else.
For cleaning fenders, use Paint Brush and roller cleaner from the hardware store, a lot better and much easier than acetone or any "marine" stuff.
And if you haven't yet, do your homework on learning what breast and spring lines are and how to use them.
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You didn't mention if it was a floating or fixed dock or if you have a slip exposed to any seas.
I always use fore and aft spring lines as long and tight as I can get them and the bow and a stern lines not nearly as tight (almost loose) when taking an alongside slip. This will keep the vessel from moving fore and aft, yet allow vertical movement as the tide rises and falls or if it gets rough at the slip.
I always use fore and aft spring lines as long and tight as I can get them and the bow and a stern lines not nearly as tight (almost loose) when taking an alongside slip. This will keep the vessel from moving fore and aft, yet allow vertical movement as the tide rises and falls or if it gets rough at the slip.
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