From several sources I have heard that full synthetic oils are vastly superior to natural petroleum lubricating oils and that there is no problem changing over an old engine to the new synthetic oils, diesel or gas. Releasing any old sludge with the new oil is not an issue. Any expertise or thoughts on this issue? Wayne
synthetic oil
- Thread starter Wayne12069
- Start date
- Status
Your sources are correct but,
even though it is more resistant to heat breakdown and could triple the interval between oil changes it unfurtunately gets just as dirty from combustion residues as regular oil does requiring it to be changed just as often. Regular oil just does as good a job of lubricating the engine for its useful life between changes and it is considerably cheaper. The application that I find where synthetic oils provide superior performance is for the transmission. The oil is maintained in an sealed clean environment and with its resistance to heat breakdown with little loss of viscocity it will really last for years of continued use. In this application the cost would be warranted.
even though it is more resistant to heat breakdown and could triple the interval between oil changes it unfurtunately gets just as dirty from combustion residues as regular oil does requiring it to be changed just as often. Regular oil just does as good a job of lubricating the engine for its useful life between changes and it is considerably cheaper. The application that I find where synthetic oils provide superior performance is for the transmission. The oil is maintained in an sealed clean environment and with its resistance to heat breakdown with little loss of viscocity it will really last for years of continued use. In this application the cost would be warranted.
Don't do it!
I did it on three seperate cars with over 100k on them & within weeks of switching to synthetic oil I had leaks! On two of the cars the rear mains started leaking within days. Two years ago a friend insisted he switch to synthetic oil on his 18 year old, bone dry, diesel and within a month he had four seperate leaks and had to remove the engine to replace gaskets and seals. I tried to talk him out of it but he was not buying my story. After a 3k repair job he switched back to regular diesel rated oil go figure. The synthetic stuff is great al be it very, very expensive but not for a used engine! Plus if it's a diesel it does NOT matter as you'll need to change it at the same interval due to the high sulfur content of the diesel we get. On a diese your not changing it because it's worn out but because it is dirty and contaminated. Synthetic does not stop contamination of diesel engines. Long haul truckers use Rotella or Dello and put millions of miles on engines... So... I let others take the hit on car value and purchase all my vehicles with over 100k on them. I have yet, in 25 years of doing this and at least one new car a year, to have a motor rebuilt or replaced. The only times I had serious oil leaks were all during the time I bought into the synthetic BS. You don't need it and I have proved it. The highest mileage car I owned was a Lexus ES 300 series that had 340k on the original engine when I bought it for 2k. It had been using regular oil changed every 5k and it still ran like a top! I drove that car for 60k miles to 400k and sold it for $2500.00 and only ever had to replace an ignition switch. Unless you switch to synthetic shortly after break in don't bother. I learned my lesson and now use regular oil in all three cars and my boats. The BMW currently has 166k miles and the current Lexus 132k miles and neither car has ever had a leak and the engines are just as strong and clean as any new car. Change often and stick with regular oil unless it's diesel then you need a Diesel rated regular oil like Dello or Rotella..
I did it on three seperate cars with over 100k on them & within weeks of switching to synthetic oil I had leaks! On two of the cars the rear mains started leaking within days. Two years ago a friend insisted he switch to synthetic oil on his 18 year old, bone dry, diesel and within a month he had four seperate leaks and had to remove the engine to replace gaskets and seals. I tried to talk him out of it but he was not buying my story. After a 3k repair job he switched back to regular diesel rated oil go figure. The synthetic stuff is great al be it very, very expensive but not for a used engine! Plus if it's a diesel it does NOT matter as you'll need to change it at the same interval due to the high sulfur content of the diesel we get. On a diese your not changing it because it's worn out but because it is dirty and contaminated. Synthetic does not stop contamination of diesel engines. Long haul truckers use Rotella or Dello and put millions of miles on engines... So... I let others take the hit on car value and purchase all my vehicles with over 100k on them. I have yet, in 25 years of doing this and at least one new car a year, to have a motor rebuilt or replaced. The only times I had serious oil leaks were all during the time I bought into the synthetic BS. You don't need it and I have proved it. The highest mileage car I owned was a Lexus ES 300 series that had 340k on the original engine when I bought it for 2k. It had been using regular oil changed every 5k and it still ran like a top! I drove that car for 60k miles to 400k and sold it for $2500.00 and only ever had to replace an ignition switch. Unless you switch to synthetic shortly after break in don't bother. I learned my lesson and now use regular oil in all three cars and my boats. The BMW currently has 166k miles and the current Lexus 132k miles and neither car has ever had a leak and the engines are just as strong and clean as any new car. Change often and stick with regular oil unless it's diesel then you need a Diesel rated regular oil like Dello or Rotella..
Oil or Oil?
I agree with the opinions of Benny and AC. I am a diesel mechanic and know that you need to use oil specified for diesel. Change often regardless of the low hours. Sulfur will eat up cranks and other metals. Be sure to bring the engine up to temp. and try to get as much out when you change oil. You should change oil just prior to layup to reduce the sulfur effects. Fair winds and strong engine John
I agree with the opinions of Benny and AC. I am a diesel mechanic and know that you need to use oil specified for diesel. Change often regardless of the low hours. Sulfur will eat up cranks and other metals. Be sure to bring the engine up to temp. and try to get as much out when you change oil. You should change oil just prior to layup to reduce the sulfur effects. Fair winds and strong engine John
Well, this is fun.
We've been kicking this subject around lately. I learned that the new ultra low sulfur fuels are soon to be on the market. (diesel) Yesterday I was shopping for a fuel filter for my new Duramax powered truck. My local parts man warned me of a bulletin that cautioned diesel vehicle owners about bad fuel and to keep extra filters handy because of the change-over to ultra-low sulfur fuel. The tanks are likely to not be at their best after the conversion. Scary. My fuel filter on my truck is over $40.
We've been kicking this subject around lately. I learned that the new ultra low sulfur fuels are soon to be on the market. (diesel) Yesterday I was shopping for a fuel filter for my new Duramax powered truck. My local parts man warned me of a bulletin that cautioned diesel vehicle owners about bad fuel and to keep extra filters handy because of the change-over to ultra-low sulfur fuel. The tanks are likely to not be at their best after the conversion. Scary. My fuel filter on my truck is over $40.
No advantage to synthetics
Oil shoild be changed as a function of time, not just engine hours. In an car or truck where a lot of miles/hours may be run up in a fairly short period there are probably advantages in some cases. Also in power boats. For the engine in a sailboat, even though the hours of use in a given season are low, the oil should be changed at fall layup, for the reasons mentioned in John's post. Even the lucky people that sail year-round probably wouldn't benefit from the advantages of synthetic. The idea of using synthetic in the transmission is interesting as that application could take advantage of the oil's longer life & enhanced lubricating qualities. If the seals & transmission case are OK to start with I can't see using synthetic causing leaks, but I'd want to make sure it was consistant with the manufacturers specs for lubricants, especially if there's a potential warranty conflict.
Oil shoild be changed as a function of time, not just engine hours. In an car or truck where a lot of miles/hours may be run up in a fairly short period there are probably advantages in some cases. Also in power boats. For the engine in a sailboat, even though the hours of use in a given season are low, the oil should be changed at fall layup, for the reasons mentioned in John's post. Even the lucky people that sail year-round probably wouldn't benefit from the advantages of synthetic. The idea of using synthetic in the transmission is interesting as that application could take advantage of the oil's longer life & enhanced lubricating qualities. If the seals & transmission case are OK to start with I can't see using synthetic causing leaks, but I'd want to make sure it was consistant with the manufacturers specs for lubricants, especially if there's a potential warranty conflict.
A.C. I would agree.
If synthetic oil was in the original design that is one thing. VW/Audi use synthetics in their vehicles. I put synthetic in my old BMW tranny (manual trans) and it leaked until I had it resealed. I would suggest that only engines that are designed for synthetics or a new engine with low miles/hours/years on it ever get a pure synthetic oil in them. Synthetic oils have different characteristics than pure synthetic oils so beware of making the switch, it can be very costly and there is very little advantage.
If synthetic oil was in the original design that is one thing. VW/Audi use synthetics in their vehicles. I put synthetic in my old BMW tranny (manual trans) and it leaked until I had it resealed. I would suggest that only engines that are designed for synthetics or a new engine with low miles/hours/years on it ever get a pure synthetic oil in them. Synthetic oils have different characteristics than pure synthetic oils so beware of making the switch, it can be very costly and there is very little advantage.
Fred, I get my Duramax filters and stuff cheaper.
I know this forum is about boats, however if I can save folks $$$ on the tow units..what the hay! Fred, I just got the Duramax too. Got it in Sept. Called the dealership and priced the filters. On October 1, they pretty much doubled the price for their parts. Here is what I did. Mine is a 2007 Silverado Classic which has the 2006 styling, not the new styling coming out this month, however it is the same engine as the later 2006. I bought six fuel filters at Advance Auto Parts for $23 each, saved over $150. (They have to order them, they ship them by the case of 6.) Bought 2 of the spin on transmission filters at NAPA Auto Parts for $22 each, saved $50 on those. (Sposed' to change it on the first oil change. I fugure I will change it then and ever other one.) (When you spin it off you will find a magnet there to catch metal flakes that go through it.) (If you need part numbers on the fuel and trans filters let me know.) I am using Rotella T 15W40, have driven many trucks that had more than a million miles with no major overhaul that used that. I looked at the sythetics, the only 15W40 I found was AmsOil, I wasn't going to do that crap. Hope that helps! Jack Hart SEA-YA!
I know this forum is about boats, however if I can save folks $$$ on the tow units..what the hay! Fred, I just got the Duramax too. Got it in Sept. Called the dealership and priced the filters. On October 1, they pretty much doubled the price for their parts. Here is what I did. Mine is a 2007 Silverado Classic which has the 2006 styling, not the new styling coming out this month, however it is the same engine as the later 2006. I bought six fuel filters at Advance Auto Parts for $23 each, saved over $150. (They have to order them, they ship them by the case of 6.) Bought 2 of the spin on transmission filters at NAPA Auto Parts for $22 each, saved $50 on those. (Sposed' to change it on the first oil change. I fugure I will change it then and ever other one.) (When you spin it off you will find a magnet there to catch metal flakes that go through it.) (If you need part numbers on the fuel and trans filters let me know.) I am using Rotella T 15W40, have driven many trucks that had more than a million miles with no major overhaul that used that. I looked at the sythetics, the only 15W40 I found was AmsOil, I wasn't going to do that crap. Hope that helps! Jack Hart SEA-YA!
Coversion to Ultra Low Sulfer fuel.
Hi Fred, me again. Actually they have been making the switch to Ultra Low Sulfur Fuel over the past couple of months, (Except for CA, they had to have it in place as of 09-01-06) there will be no issues with the underground tanks. They simply started putting it in the place of the low sulfer fuel. I have 12-K on my new Duramax, have purchased fuel all over the East coast, have had no problems with any. Jack Hart SEA-YA!
Hi Fred, me again. Actually they have been making the switch to Ultra Low Sulfur Fuel over the past couple of months, (Except for CA, they had to have it in place as of 09-01-06) there will be no issues with the underground tanks. They simply started putting it in the place of the low sulfer fuel. I have 12-K on my new Duramax, have purchased fuel all over the East coast, have had no problems with any. Jack Hart SEA-YA!
There's 10 Quarts of synthetic oil
sitting in the my shed for the last 2 years cause I found out what will happen if I use the stuff to an older engine seal and I have 3 old diesels that I was going to use it on (sailboat and 2 trucks)turns out last year I did not replace the diaper under the engine right away and found out that my rear seal is already leaking so I've been using Mobil high milege oil that will soften the seal,worked on an old truck so what do I have to lose other than try on the boat.
sitting in the my shed for the last 2 years cause I found out what will happen if I use the stuff to an older engine seal and I have 3 old diesels that I was going to use it on (sailboat and 2 trucks)turns out last year I did not replace the diaper under the engine right away and found out that my rear seal is already leaking so I've been using Mobil high milege oil that will soften the seal,worked on an old truck so what do I have to lose other than try on the boat.
Time and temperature
Oil in the crankcase of an internal combustion engine gets contaminated by normal blow-by past the rings (every engine does it, more during warm up) and condensation on internal surfaces. If the engine is brought up to operating temperature (Oil temp 200F +) for several hours every time it is run, the oil will stay clean. Blow-by is combustible mixture that made it past the rings. Once the oil is hot, these short chain hydrocarbons "boil" out of the oil and the PCV system returns the vapors to the intake manifold so the engine gets a second chance to burn them. If your oil never gets hot, or you never run the engine for 2-3 hours after the oil is hot, or your engine does not have a PCV system ... change your oil often. Don't waste money on a synthetic.
Atomic 4's and motorcycles have transmissions that share oil with the engine (and in the case of the A4 no oil filter), the oil in these engines looses viscosity due to breaking up of long molecular chains by gears in the transmissions, the oil is also contaminated by friction material from clutch packs. Absolutely no point in using a full synthetic in these engines.
Oil in the crankcase of an internal combustion engine gets contaminated by normal blow-by past the rings (every engine does it, more during warm up) and condensation on internal surfaces. If the engine is brought up to operating temperature (Oil temp 200F +) for several hours every time it is run, the oil will stay clean. Blow-by is combustible mixture that made it past the rings. Once the oil is hot, these short chain hydrocarbons "boil" out of the oil and the PCV system returns the vapors to the intake manifold so the engine gets a second chance to burn them. If your oil never gets hot, or you never run the engine for 2-3 hours after the oil is hot, or your engine does not have a PCV system ... change your oil often. Don't waste money on a synthetic.
Atomic 4's and motorcycles have transmissions that share oil with the engine (and in the case of the A4 no oil filter), the oil in these engines looses viscosity due to breaking up of long molecular chains by gears in the transmissions, the oil is also contaminated by friction material from clutch packs. Absolutely no point in using a full synthetic in these engines.I use it , but...
I have used synthetic oil in my cars for about 15 years now. I put it in after the first or second oil change, and then change the oil every 7-9k miles. I made the switch initially because I drive a lot and really didn't want to be bothered with having to have the oil changed every 6 weeks, and the synthetics promised that I could go twice as long between changes. I drove the first car for about 160k miles before I sold it, and never had a single problem. I drove the second car about 170k miles before I had any lubrication-related issues. The front engine seals began to leak and it cost me about $1500 to fix the problem. After reading some of the posts below, I wonder if the synthetics had anything to do with it. Given the length of time I had been using the products (about 9 years) before the problem manifested itself, I would doubt it, but its still an interesting question. The most interesting test on oil changes I ever saw was in Consumer Reports several years ago. They wanted to see if changing the oil every 3000 miles was really necessary. They took several new NYC cabs, took apart the engines and precisely measured the moving parts. They then put the cabs into regular service; half the cabs had their oil changed every 3000 miles. The other half had the oil changed much less frequently; I can't remember exactly, but I think it was every 7000 or 10k miles. After a good period of time, the disassembed the engines and remeasured the moving parts. Their conclusion: no measureable difference in the wear on the parts between the two control groups. Ever since reading that article, I stopped freaking out if my wife let her car go 6000 miles between oil changes.
I have used synthetic oil in my cars for about 15 years now. I put it in after the first or second oil change, and then change the oil every 7-9k miles. I made the switch initially because I drive a lot and really didn't want to be bothered with having to have the oil changed every 6 weeks, and the synthetics promised that I could go twice as long between changes. I drove the first car for about 160k miles before I sold it, and never had a single problem. I drove the second car about 170k miles before I had any lubrication-related issues. The front engine seals began to leak and it cost me about $1500 to fix the problem. After reading some of the posts below, I wonder if the synthetics had anything to do with it. Given the length of time I had been using the products (about 9 years) before the problem manifested itself, I would doubt it, but its still an interesting question. The most interesting test on oil changes I ever saw was in Consumer Reports several years ago. They wanted to see if changing the oil every 3000 miles was really necessary. They took several new NYC cabs, took apart the engines and precisely measured the moving parts. They then put the cabs into regular service; half the cabs had their oil changed every 3000 miles. The other half had the oil changed much less frequently; I can't remember exactly, but I think it was every 7000 or 10k miles. After a good period of time, the disassembed the engines and remeasured the moving parts. Their conclusion: no measureable difference in the wear on the parts between the two control groups. Ever since reading that article, I stopped freaking out if my wife let her car go 6000 miles between oil changes.
What!!!
disclaimer- this is coming from a novice saior and experienced car mehanic and racer. Synthetic oil is INCREDIBLE and I would not trust an expensive motor to anything else. Yes, you are 100% correct about it dissolving sludge, and in an engine with more than roughly 2000 hours the seal rubber tends to get "replaced" by sludge- it actually forms a pretty good seal for moving parts. So now your rear main seal rubber has worn away .030 from the shaft, and that gap bridged by sludge. Synthetic goes in, and BAM now you have a gaping oil leak. So for an old motor with many hours on it, don't change. However, for any motor in relatively "new" condition, I can't understand why you wouldnt run synthetic. The lubricated parts virtually do not wear- even in an oval-track stock car where the oil pump sucks air around the corners. Cold starts, oil flow problems caused by sludged-up passages, bearing knock, splash-lubricated places (such as cylinder walls and piston pins), valve guides, is all improved by the synthetic oil, plus it doesn't eat seal rubber. If your engine is newish, do it. It will still be newish a long time from now. (change filters 2x as often as the oil itself is my personal pattern) If your engine is old, don't. When it finally does come time for the rebuild, replace everything and then switch.
disclaimer- this is coming from a novice saior and experienced car mehanic and racer. Synthetic oil is INCREDIBLE and I would not trust an expensive motor to anything else. Yes, you are 100% correct about it dissolving sludge, and in an engine with more than roughly 2000 hours the seal rubber tends to get "replaced" by sludge- it actually forms a pretty good seal for moving parts. So now your rear main seal rubber has worn away .030 from the shaft, and that gap bridged by sludge. Synthetic goes in, and BAM now you have a gaping oil leak. So for an old motor with many hours on it, don't change. However, for any motor in relatively "new" condition, I can't understand why you wouldnt run synthetic. The lubricated parts virtually do not wear- even in an oval-track stock car where the oil pump sucks air around the corners. Cold starts, oil flow problems caused by sludged-up passages, bearing knock, splash-lubricated places (such as cylinder walls and piston pins), valve guides, is all improved by the synthetic oil, plus it doesn't eat seal rubber. If your engine is newish, do it. It will still be newish a long time from now. (change filters 2x as often as the oil itself is my personal pattern) If your engine is old, don't. When it finally does come time for the rebuild, replace everything and then switch.
Would have loved switch...
Hi Brian, was wanting to switch to synthetic for the new Duamax Chevy, couldn't find anything in a 15W40 but AmSoil. You know of any other diesel synthetic in 15W40? Thanks in advance! Jack Hart SEA-YA!
Hi Brian, was wanting to switch to synthetic for the new Duamax Chevy, couldn't find anything in a 15W40 but AmSoil. You know of any other diesel synthetic in 15W40? Thanks in advance! Jack Hart SEA-YA!
Title
Rather than the "blend" just use half-and-half. Judging from the gelling temperatures, there isn't much synthetic in the blend anyway. We use the heavy mobil 1 in just about everything important- 15W50 I believe it is? In fact (this probably isnt a good idea) it comes out of the nice tow truck (18,000 lb nissan- used to tow the hunter) and it goes into the not-so-nice tow truck (big block ford). Then the nice tow truck gets fresh mobi-1
Rather than the "blend" just use half-and-half. Judging from the gelling temperatures, there isn't much synthetic in the blend anyway. We use the heavy mobil 1 in just about everything important- 15W50 I believe it is? In fact (this probably isnt a good idea) it comes out of the nice tow truck (18,000 lb nissan- used to tow the hunter) and it goes into the not-so-nice tow truck (big block ford). Then the nice tow truck gets fresh mobi-1
Why????
Why run synthetic when regular engines running conventional oil changed at regular intervals last well past 250k. I just looked at my vehicle cost spread sheet & counted the number of cars I've owned at 42 since I was 18 and began keeping track of car expenses there were three others before that but all I have is memory and that's a little foggy going back to 16 years old. The lowest mileage car I purchased had 82k on it and the highest mileage car purchased had 360k. In the nineties I tried synthetic on 3 successive cars they are the only three that required any major engine seals to be repaired/replaced. I thought I had only done rear mains on two of them but now that I look I did rear mains on all three I tried synthetic in. None of my 42 cars ever required an engine rebuild top or bottom and all except three ran conventional oil changed every 5k. Of these vehicles only one ever burned oil and it was a 1979 Ford Fiesta. It only burned it upon start up because Ford had a problem with premature wear of valve guides not because of the oil but because of a defect. When I look at the sales records for these cars 27 of them had over 200k when I sold, 8 had over 250k and only seven were sold with less than 200k. Not one engine rebuild!!!! Go ahead buy the snake oil I did until I learned my lesson! I drive about 100k per year or so and drive very high mileage cars. I have owned many so I feel my sample size is ample enough to say that running conventional oil changed regularly will NOT be a problem. Hell 99.9% of people wet their pants when a car gets near 100k because they buy into the "sales" tactics of the auto manufacturers. If your not keeping a car beyond 50k anyway who cares! I don't and I'm the guy buying your car off the second or third owner for 10% of what most suckers pay new or from the other sales person who drives as much as me. My last boat had over 2800 engine hours with conventional oil and it purred like a kitten and did not leak a drop! The PO had chanced the oil with Rotella 15W-40 every 50 hours and had the engine log book to prove it. Synthetic is good stuff for friction but way, way way over rated because it causes more leaks than it is worth. You would have to drive a car to 500k to even begin to notice the friction difference between synthetic and conventional. Even if you start using it when your car is new. Talk to any Volvo, Mercedes, BMW or Volkswagen/Audi mechanic about how many rear mains they do and it's a lot and it's probably because of the synthetic oil!! Even though BMW recommends synthetic I refuse to run it and my 99 convertable with 166k is bone dry and the internals are clean. It also compression tests at new engine spec. My brother-in-law owns the identical car same year, same model but with 111k and his is currently leaking oil all over his garage and he suspects it's the rear main. I don't know for sure that it's his rear main but I do know from the service history on mine that mine has never been in the shop for a reported oil leak! He has been running Mobil 1 since 10k..! If at 166k, which 99% of folks will never even see on the ODO, the engine is still putting out new spec compression on all six cylinders, WHY try something that may cause oil leaks??? Don't buy the HYPE..
Why run synthetic when regular engines running conventional oil changed at regular intervals last well past 250k. I just looked at my vehicle cost spread sheet & counted the number of cars I've owned at 42 since I was 18 and began keeping track of car expenses there were three others before that but all I have is memory and that's a little foggy going back to 16 years old. The lowest mileage car I purchased had 82k on it and the highest mileage car purchased had 360k. In the nineties I tried synthetic on 3 successive cars they are the only three that required any major engine seals to be repaired/replaced. I thought I had only done rear mains on two of them but now that I look I did rear mains on all three I tried synthetic in. None of my 42 cars ever required an engine rebuild top or bottom and all except three ran conventional oil changed every 5k. Of these vehicles only one ever burned oil and it was a 1979 Ford Fiesta. It only burned it upon start up because Ford had a problem with premature wear of valve guides not because of the oil but because of a defect. When I look at the sales records for these cars 27 of them had over 200k when I sold, 8 had over 250k and only seven were sold with less than 200k. Not one engine rebuild!!!! Go ahead buy the snake oil I did until I learned my lesson! I drive about 100k per year or so and drive very high mileage cars. I have owned many so I feel my sample size is ample enough to say that running conventional oil changed regularly will NOT be a problem. Hell 99.9% of people wet their pants when a car gets near 100k because they buy into the "sales" tactics of the auto manufacturers. If your not keeping a car beyond 50k anyway who cares! I don't and I'm the guy buying your car off the second or third owner for 10% of what most suckers pay new or from the other sales person who drives as much as me. My last boat had over 2800 engine hours with conventional oil and it purred like a kitten and did not leak a drop! The PO had chanced the oil with Rotella 15W-40 every 50 hours and had the engine log book to prove it. Synthetic is good stuff for friction but way, way way over rated because it causes more leaks than it is worth. You would have to drive a car to 500k to even begin to notice the friction difference between synthetic and conventional. Even if you start using it when your car is new. Talk to any Volvo, Mercedes, BMW or Volkswagen/Audi mechanic about how many rear mains they do and it's a lot and it's probably because of the synthetic oil!! Even though BMW recommends synthetic I refuse to run it and my 99 convertable with 166k is bone dry and the internals are clean. It also compression tests at new engine spec. My brother-in-law owns the identical car same year, same model but with 111k and his is currently leaking oil all over his garage and he suspects it's the rear main. I don't know for sure that it's his rear main but I do know from the service history on mine that mine has never been in the shop for a reported oil leak! He has been running Mobil 1 since 10k..! If at 166k, which 99% of folks will never even see on the ODO, the engine is still putting out new spec compression on all six cylinders, WHY try something that may cause oil leaks??? Don't buy the HYPE..
Synthetic for Extreme Use
Hello, Synthetic oil is amazing stuff. However, unless you have amazing requirements, I don't think it's necessary to use it. I run regular oil in my cars, and Rotella in my boat. I use synthetic in my race car because that has a turbo charged engine that runs high rpm, high loads, high temperatures, etc. If I had a power boat with turbo diesel engines that was run hard, I would use syntetic oil. But my Universal M18 turns at 2300 rpm, and uses about 20 gallons of diesel a year. No benefit in using synthetic oil for that! Barry Barry Lenoble Noble Prize 1986 Newport 28 Mt. Sinai, NY lenoble@optonline.net
Hello, Synthetic oil is amazing stuff. However, unless you have amazing requirements, I don't think it's necessary to use it. I run regular oil in my cars, and Rotella in my boat. I use synthetic in my race car because that has a turbo charged engine that runs high rpm, high loads, high temperatures, etc. If I had a power boat with turbo diesel engines that was run hard, I would use syntetic oil. But my Universal M18 turns at 2300 rpm, and uses about 20 gallons of diesel a year. No benefit in using synthetic oil for that! Barry Barry Lenoble Noble Prize 1986 Newport 28 Mt. Sinai, NY lenoble@optonline.net
Think AMWAY!
I think of AmsOil and AMWAY comes to mind. The way they sell it. Plus it runs pretty close to $7 a quart. I went into a NAPA Auto Parts store recently, simply asked about sythetic oil. The guy tried to sell me the AmsOil so hard that he lost the sales on the filters and other items I wanted. (And bought elsewhere!) Jack Hart SEA-YA!
I think of AmsOil and AMWAY comes to mind. The way they sell it. Plus it runs pretty close to $7 a quart. I went into a NAPA Auto Parts store recently, simply asked about sythetic oil. The guy tried to sell me the AmsOil so hard that he lost the sales on the filters and other items I wanted. (And bought elsewhere!) Jack Hart SEA-YA!
- Status